R56 07 Audio Package Sucks!
I stand corrected, HOWEVER, Clear Channel is an investor in XM. They program I believe up to 4 (mabye more now) of the stations and are a big reason why on those channels there are commercials. They have a thumbprint on XM, whether you believe so or not.
edited to add link(s):
http://www.fool.com/investing/high-g...-salesmen.aspx
http://www.mediaweek.com/mw/news/rec..._id=1002117590
http://www.allaboutjazz.com/php/article.php?id=15875
edited to add link(s):
http://www.fool.com/investing/high-g...-salesmen.aspx
http://www.mediaweek.com/mw/news/rec..._id=1002117590
http://www.allaboutjazz.com/php/article.php?id=15875
I wondered why, all of a sudden about a year ago, XM added seemingly duplicate channels and it appears that it was draw listeners away from the CC controlled channels and towards the ad free XM versions. CC may have a thumbprint on a small percentage of XM but the company seems to be working to marginalise them.
Terminology
I fully agree with the assesment of the R56 Hi Fi. This is why I run with the bass turned down a click and the treble up one click. I have been an audiophile for many many years so I want my system be sound as flat as possible. Not flat sounding but correct sounding if that makes any sense.

BTW, I have an 07 with the stereo upgrade, and I like it just fine. But I'm not playing any of that bass heavy type stuff, more what I would call Americana music... historic blues, rock and country by the legends and the later artists that have followed. I run the system darn near zeroed, not plus or minus. Not sure of the exact settings, but I might have one click up on bass or treble, not sure which. I believe the balance is set so that I hear the front speakers just a TINY bit more. Might just be the center position on that, too. I find it fine cranked up a bit, but frankly I don't like driving with the system ROARING, because I want to hear what is going on with the engine etc. while I'm driving. I believe that at some point I will upgrade the stock upgraded system speakers, as they are the final word in what you hear, no matter if it's a stock/upgrade/or custom stereo system.
I am contemplating whether to order HiFi or not. It seems like some were so dissatisfied with it, they replaced the entire system, but had to leave the oem amp in because the software needs it?! I am teetering on the following:
-order HiFi, add a sub and amp (for sub only), and maybe replace speakers w/ component fronts and coaxial rears if the oem speakers are really that horrible.
-No HiFi, and use the saved $500 to build my own system.
My thoughts are to go middle of the line quality as not to spend a fortune on audio... maybe $700 tops either way. I am getting the feeling that the $500 would be better spent by not buying the HiFi. Any thoughts?
-order HiFi, add a sub and amp (for sub only), and maybe replace speakers w/ component fronts and coaxial rears if the oem speakers are really that horrible.
-No HiFi, and use the saved $500 to build my own system.
My thoughts are to go middle of the line quality as not to spend a fortune on audio... maybe $700 tops either way. I am getting the feeling that the $500 would be better spent by not buying the HiFi. Any thoughts?
I guess I'm the oddball old guy out here. The sound system is the last thing I'm concerned with when I buy a car. If it has a radio and I can listen to some tunes or talk radio I'm happy. I'm most happy driving the car that has the performance that I am looking for and not how good the speakers are. I'll never understand the emphasis put on car music/stereo systems. Must be my age.

Someone may correct me on this, but I think it will be difficult to find speakers sensitive enough to put out good sound with the standard amp.
Keeping the stock speakers with the HIFI system will give you the mixed results you read here. Sometimes it is OK, sometimes it isn't.
If you absolutely can't go with 3, go with 2 and save up for a speaker upgrade in the future. Cost of replacing the front speakers is around $200 if you install them yourself.
Once again, I listened to old Wensleydale's standard system, and wow ! Sounds just fine to my "educated" ears.
If you want thumping club sounds you will be somewhat disappointed. On some songs, Crystal Method uses an oscillater generated bass tone (the booming you hear the guys do that rattles your fillings) and the stock system handles it. You won't shake the whole neighbor hood but with the windows up, it will be uncomfortable.
Mike
If you want thumping club sounds you will be somewhat disappointed. On some songs, Crystal Method uses an oscillater generated bass tone (the booming you hear the guys do that rattles your fillings) and the stock system handles it. You won't shake the whole neighbor hood but with the windows up, it will be uncomfortable.
Mike
I just got done installing new front speakers. Unlike most here I went for non-mass market speakers because I've had good luck with then and the savings is great. After a lot of research and talking to friends who are in the home speaker business I settled on a pair of Seas tweeters and Peerless 6.5s from Madisound.
I broke them in for around 75 hours at home before I put them into the car.
I wasn't expecting a lot aside from better highs since it would have a dedicated tweeter (the car has standard stereo option).
After an initial phase problem I am stunned how good it sounds. I think if you choose your speakers carefully and match them well you'll be amazed. I didn't think it would sound anywhere near acceptable until we get an amp in there.
I guess the stock speakers really are crap. That's too bad.
I broke them in for around 75 hours at home before I put them into the car.
I wasn't expecting a lot aside from better highs since it would have a dedicated tweeter (the car has standard stereo option).
After an initial phase problem I am stunned how good it sounds. I think if you choose your speakers carefully and match them well you'll be amazed. I didn't think it would sound anywhere near acceptable until we get an amp in there.
I guess the stock speakers really are crap. That's too bad.
I just got done installing new front speakers. Unlike most here I went for non-mass market speakers because I've had good luck with then and the savings is great. After a lot of research and talking to friends who are in the home speaker business I settled on a pair of Seas tweeters and Peerless 6.5s from Madisound.
I broke them in for around 75 hours at home before I put them into the car.
I wasn't expecting a lot aside from better highs since it would have a dedicated tweeter (the car has standard stereo option).
After an initial phase problem I am stunned how good it sounds. I think if you choose your speakers carefully and match them well you'll be amazed. I didn't think it would sound anywhere near acceptable until we get an amp in there.
I guess the stock speakers really are crap. That's too bad.
I broke them in for around 75 hours at home before I put them into the car.
I wasn't expecting a lot aside from better highs since it would have a dedicated tweeter (the car has standard stereo option).
After an initial phase problem I am stunned how good it sounds. I think if you choose your speakers carefully and match them well you'll be amazed. I didn't think it would sound anywhere near acceptable until we get an amp in there.
I guess the stock speakers really are crap. That's too bad.
Nui,
Congrats on the upgrade. I'm very interested in doing the same for my standard audio. Could you tell us what you paid and did the install involve any serious custom work--any details would be appreciated? Did you go with the Peerless Nomex Cone Woofer and which Seas tweeter did you get from http://madisound.com? Thanks in advance.
Rob
Congrats on the upgrade. I'm very interested in doing the same for my standard audio. Could you tell us what you paid and did the install involve any serious custom work--any details would be appreciated? Did you go with the Peerless Nomex Cone Woofer and which Seas tweeter did you get from http://madisound.com? Thanks in advance.
Rob
Last edited by robrob; Jan 6, 2008 at 02:23 PM.
The drivers I got from Madisound are:
2 x Seas 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" textile dome tweeter = $57.60
2 x Peerless 830513/832513 6.5" Autosound Woofer = $78.00
You can see with a total at $135 + shipping its significantly less than the JL Audio solution and others. I'm not commenting on the JL Audio speakers, I'm sure they're excellent. I've been in extreme high-end audio for 25 years and am very critical of car stereo because of the obvious drawbacks. I hear many client systems that cost a ton and my ears are bleeding.
The people at Madisound are used to the DIY market which is their market so they offer great advice. They told me to run the 6.5 at full range due to their specs. The sold me a pair of caps as a passive x-over on the tweeters.
The sound is natural and well balanced. Of course bass is an issue because I haven't put in a separate amp yet although surprising ok on bass heavy songs.
The tweeters require a bracket which can be done several ways as shown in many posts here. They replaced the upper 3.5" speakers.
The woofers need some dremel work to get in. If you worry about dremelling your plastic that holds the original speakers you may tell Madisound you need a driver with a basket that sits back from the edge a 1/8" more. If you're up for about 10 minutes of fitting its worth it. It just requires beveling the plastic speaker bracket on the door.
Here's some speaker building tips that may seem funny but its really a cool tips that makes a huge difference in speaker enclosures (I build hi efficiency speakers as a hobby).
Put some sound proofing behind the speaker. As much as you can get in which won't be a lot. Then get some small bubble bubblewrap and cover the sound proofing. Obviously the bubble face the speaker. This cancels standing waves and applied to a speaker enclosure has dramatic effects. One DIY speaker kit that was the kit of year last year relied on this old trick.
I didn't upgrade the wire which would be nice in the future. But honestly I think there's a point of diminishing returns in car-fi. Unless you have a perfectly quiet car and use a lot of electronics that compensate for listening position you have to be realistic. I want to hear lively, accurate reproduction that isn't fatiguing or has artificial bumps in the curve to accentuate something that is impressive initially and tiring in the long run.
This cost effective upgrade did a lot of that. I'm sure an amp and better speakers in the back will just increase that.
On the subject of break-in. I'm really surprised people jump into a car after new speaker are put in and judge the sound. Even the crappy stock speakers opened up after 100 hours. When I was breaking in these speakers I couldn't even be in the same room with them for the first 10 hours. If you put these in without breaking them in you'll probably threaten to track me down and demand a refund.
All speakers and electronics need break in. Especially speakers. My hi efficiency speakers use drivers that need over 350 hours to break in. Its just the way it is.
Even iPods needs break in. My wife's has about 100+ hours on hers and I just got the exact same one as a gift and mine sound tight and restricted.
Hope this wasn't too long winded.
Also I need to thank Sean and Celia from this board for all their help. Be aware that the +/- speaker wire specs that are on this board are incorrect for the right side door woofer. The + on my car is yellow/brown. I originally hooked it up according to the directions off the board and although I verified sound I didn't close both door and listen before I put the skins back on. I could tell the speakers were out of phase immediately and had to rip open the passenger door again.
2 x Seas 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" textile dome tweeter = $57.60
2 x Peerless 830513/832513 6.5" Autosound Woofer = $78.00
You can see with a total at $135 + shipping its significantly less than the JL Audio solution and others. I'm not commenting on the JL Audio speakers, I'm sure they're excellent. I've been in extreme high-end audio for 25 years and am very critical of car stereo because of the obvious drawbacks. I hear many client systems that cost a ton and my ears are bleeding.
The people at Madisound are used to the DIY market which is their market so they offer great advice. They told me to run the 6.5 at full range due to their specs. The sold me a pair of caps as a passive x-over on the tweeters.
The sound is natural and well balanced. Of course bass is an issue because I haven't put in a separate amp yet although surprising ok on bass heavy songs.
The tweeters require a bracket which can be done several ways as shown in many posts here. They replaced the upper 3.5" speakers.
The woofers need some dremel work to get in. If you worry about dremelling your plastic that holds the original speakers you may tell Madisound you need a driver with a basket that sits back from the edge a 1/8" more. If you're up for about 10 minutes of fitting its worth it. It just requires beveling the plastic speaker bracket on the door.
Here's some speaker building tips that may seem funny but its really a cool tips that makes a huge difference in speaker enclosures (I build hi efficiency speakers as a hobby).
Put some sound proofing behind the speaker. As much as you can get in which won't be a lot. Then get some small bubble bubblewrap and cover the sound proofing. Obviously the bubble face the speaker. This cancels standing waves and applied to a speaker enclosure has dramatic effects. One DIY speaker kit that was the kit of year last year relied on this old trick.
I didn't upgrade the wire which would be nice in the future. But honestly I think there's a point of diminishing returns in car-fi. Unless you have a perfectly quiet car and use a lot of electronics that compensate for listening position you have to be realistic. I want to hear lively, accurate reproduction that isn't fatiguing or has artificial bumps in the curve to accentuate something that is impressive initially and tiring in the long run.
This cost effective upgrade did a lot of that. I'm sure an amp and better speakers in the back will just increase that.
On the subject of break-in. I'm really surprised people jump into a car after new speaker are put in and judge the sound. Even the crappy stock speakers opened up after 100 hours. When I was breaking in these speakers I couldn't even be in the same room with them for the first 10 hours. If you put these in without breaking them in you'll probably threaten to track me down and demand a refund.
All speakers and electronics need break in. Especially speakers. My hi efficiency speakers use drivers that need over 350 hours to break in. Its just the way it is.Even iPods needs break in. My wife's has about 100+ hours on hers and I just got the exact same one as a gift and mine sound tight and restricted.
Hope this wasn't too long winded.
Also I need to thank Sean and Celia from this board for all their help. Be aware that the +/- speaker wire specs that are on this board are incorrect for the right side door woofer. The + on my car is yellow/brown. I originally hooked it up according to the directions off the board and although I verified sound I didn't close both door and listen before I put the skins back on. I could tell the speakers were out of phase immediately and had to rip open the passenger door again.
Be aware that the +/- speaker wire specs that are on this board are incorrect for the right side door woofer. The + on my car is yellow/brown. I originally hooked it up according to the directions off the board and although I verified sound I didn't close both door and listen before I put the skins back on. I could tell the speakers were out of phase immediately and had to rip open the passenger door again.
Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)
When I did mine, the light in the garage was a bit dim, so couldn't really tell if it was purple or brown, but I followed those recommendations.
Does the 6.5" woofer location get much mid-range? I was under the impression that it was being used as a sub in the HIFI system. Don't know about the standard.
Well in my experience the Hi-Fi is actually pretty good overall (obviously the source also matters). I am comparing this to the Bose system in my previous Infiniti. While the Infiniti's dedicated subwoofer gave it a bit more/deeper bass I prefer the overall sound quality of the hi-fi with the mini. It is much crisper. The other benefit is that unlike the shelf and speaker rattles the Bose had in certain instances there are no audio system rattles that I can perceive in my R56.
I'm sure that this is one of those subjective things that will largely depend on what you are used to listening to.
BTW, this having been said the audio quality of Sirius is very bad (the bitrate stinks). As far as audio quality goes I'd rank the sources follows...
1) CD
2) iPod adapter
3) HD Radio
4) Standard Radio
5) Screaming Cat
6) Sirius
It is especially bad if you have been listening to HD radio for a while and then switch to a sat radio channel.
I'm sure that this is one of those subjective things that will largely depend on what you are used to listening to.
BTW, this having been said the audio quality of Sirius is very bad (the bitrate stinks). As far as audio quality goes I'd rank the sources follows...
1) CD
2) iPod adapter
3) HD Radio
4) Standard Radio
5) Screaming Cat
6) Sirius
It is especially bad if you have been listening to HD radio for a while and then switch to a sat radio channel.
Last edited by ajabbari; Jan 7, 2008 at 02:06 AM.
I was very impressed with the quality of the HD stations around here. The Mini's HD radio is the first one I've heard and it was surprising how good it sounds.
Robrob - yes. My wife's MINI is the standard system. Follow instructions as I mentioned.
Robin. Yes those were the specs. Maybe the problem was that was the HI-FI specs and not the standard. An out of phase speaker will destroy the whole system.
Sean from the board reminded me of the 9V battery test. If you still have your old speakers and some of the wire that was cut off to install normal connectors you can check the proper phase by touching the wires to the battery +/- leads. If the speaker pops out then that lead that the + of the battery is on is the + of the system. If the speaker retracts out that is the neg side. In my case it was reversed and I verified all connections with the factory speakers.
Robin. Yes those were the specs. Maybe the problem was that was the HI-FI specs and not the standard. An out of phase speaker will destroy the whole system.
Sean from the board reminded me of the 9V battery test. If you still have your old speakers and some of the wire that was cut off to install normal connectors you can check the proper phase by touching the wires to the battery +/- leads. If the speaker pops out then that lead that the + of the battery is on is the + of the system. If the speaker retracts out that is the neg side. In my case it was reversed and I verified all connections with the factory speakers.
interesting
I am so dissatisfied with the Audio Package that came on my 07 MCS. The so-called Hi-Fi sound system just plain sucks, while the satellite radio stations I listen to play the same songs over and over all the time. I have pretty much memorized all the songs they play on the stations I listen to. I can't believe I wasted $1400 of my hard-earned money on this crap! Definitely no more Sirius satellite radio on my future cars.
So all of you future MCS owners out there, I hope you will not make the same mistake I did!
So all of you future MCS owners out there, I hope you will not make the same mistake I did!
I got the Nav system.
I tried this today on the way home. This was/is very good advice. I liked my hi-fi, before, this helped even more. Made the sound richer. I used bass 0, Treble +1, Fader 4 to the rear. I had a default of 0,0,0. Excellent advice, thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
I have the bass setting half way up and +1 or 2 on the treble; roughly half what the bass is set to. I haven't tried fading to the rear more. I was listening to a HD station today for a while and enjoyed the clarity and depth. I really noticed when I switched back to my normal none HD radio station. Sounded a lot flatter and kind of dull. Maybe this fade trick will help with that.


