The oil I purchased from the dealer to do my first change out ran me 5.40 a quart, they gave it to me in a box labeled Full synthetic motor oil formulated for your mini 5W-30

How are you pulling a few ounces of oil for the sample?

Forget it I think I answered my own question.

That's the gist of it, although my rig isn't that fancy. It's basically a plastic tube with a bulb on it. I run the engine long enough to get the oil hot and mixed, then use the bulb to suck out a few ounces through the dipstick tube.

Where's the best place to send oil for analysis? Any legal considerations in mailing oil via USPS? Cost of anaysis? What information is provided with the analysis? Is it suitable to send oil extracted through dipstick hole, or best to send drained oil?

Thanks,

ScottRiqui

Did your original samples of the factory fill oil show unusual amounts of metals that might be associated with break in?

I've used these guys in the past and like their work.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com

I send my samples to Terry Dyson www.dysonanalysis.com. The cost varies from company to company, depending on how many things they test for, and how in-depth the reviewer's analysis of the lab results is.

Here's what Dyson tests (from their site):

"Broad-based test package used for Dyson Analysis formulating screens. 21 elemental metals, viscosity @ 40C and 100C, viscosity index, TAN, TBN, flashpoint, oxidation, nitration, sulfate by-products, water by KF, fuel, soot, and glycol."

Used motor oil is safe and legal to send through USPS mail, and is not categorized as a "hazardous material", primarily because the flashpoint is above 200F (the USPS limit). The flash point of used oil is usually well over 300F.

My analysis after the initial oil change showed slightly elevated levels of Iron, Silicon, Copper and Lead, along with a little over 1% fuel dilution, all of which are typical for break-in oil after ~12,000 miles. I'm expecting the results from the next analysis to be lower for all those measurements, both because the engine's broken in now, and also because the remnants of the assembly lube and casting silica should have been flushed out with the last oil change.

Speaking for myself, I use Dyson Analysis. The premium analysis $50 and you get a very detailed report with comments in plain English. It's great for me because I don't know the significance of the raw data. You can also e-mail Terry Dyson himself to answer any questions about the analysis. Terry prides himself on being an independent lab so he will give you recommendations uncolored by any marketing relationship. Here is a sample of the old reports (he now sends MP3 commentary) http://www.dysonanalysis.com/images/...Kit_Sample.pdf

I have never used Blackstone. But their standard analysis is $22.50 and not as detailed as Dyson's premium kit. For $60 you can have Terry Dyson interpret a Blackstone analysis, but I figured for $10 less I could just go straight to Dyson. Here is a sample of a Blackstone standard analysis http://www.blackstone-labs.com/eng_balloon_report_.html

The easiest way to get a sample is to suck it out of the dipstick tube. I like to get the oil analysed first, then change the oil based on the recommendations of the UOA. Trying to get a sample from the drain plug is tricky at best. If you run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil and mix it up, it doesn't matter where you pull the sample from.

I noticed you could get a Dyson analysis from Blackstone, so I assumed they were related, but I guess Dyson is the guru of oil analysis. But I'm assuming that unless something was drastically wrong with a new MINI, the information wouldn't be that useful to me. One thing they did point out was that even the oil you get at Walmart is fine to use (dino or synthetic), and the only real consideration would be how often to change it. If one resigns themself to doing a change every 5,000 miles, and not wait for MINI's computer to tell them it's okay to go 18,000 miles between changes, there shouldn't be too much problems.

I'm the kind of guy who will get interested in some new model once the warranty runs out, so it will be the guy that buys my car that will suffer inadequate maintenance, not me. And since I don't have a garage, the issues that arise are more due to strucural integrity than drivetrain issues. What I need to do is bring my car in more in the winter and have the salt washed off the undercarriage.

Thanks for the info though,

Now I know I have to pick up a 27mm socket and T50 torx bit, besides oil and filter. But without looking under the car, is there any position that will help drain the oil more fully? I.E. tilted a little higher on driver's side or passenger side? A Little higher in the front or back? Or perfectly level?

Don't forget the 8mm socket for the coolant overflow tank, and an extension for the 27mm socket -- if you don't already have them.

Turn it upsidedown and shake it?

Run the car for about 5 min. to warm and stir up the oil before draining. I take it for a short drive. Not enough to reach normal operating temp. I usually go about a mile round trip and then up a steep switchback driveway.

I'm about to change my oil for the first time. The ECU is telling me to wait till 16,000 MILES!!!!??? I'm just about to hit 5k and I feel i'm overdue. I usual use Royal Purple on my Modded Mustang. But i'm considering AMSOIL European Formula 5w-40. Recommeded for BMW's esp turbocharged vehicles. They've got me sold. Anyone's opinion?

I figure if MINI uses Castrol every 15,000 miles, why spend the extra money for Redline, Royal Purple, or Amsoil.

When you get around to your scheduled maintenance, they're going to put Castrol in there anyway.

Castrol's on sale for $4.65 at Advance Auto Parts till 10/27

I'm with you Willie. IMO it's time to do that oil change. Any good full synthetic should work well. I Like Mobile 1.

I thought Mobil 1 wasn't as good as the Castrol, in MINI's opinion?

That's because Mobil doesn't pay BMW to have their name stamped on the engine...

+ 1

I was thinking about getting the oil analyzed after break-in to see if there's evidence of excess metals in the oil, but I'm not sure when to take the sample, 1200, 1500, 2000.

Any thoughts? It may shed some light on this issue. Maybe others have already done this.

I originally thought about changing my oil as soon as I was through the official breakin period (1250 miles), but after some thought, I've decided to put it off later, because by 1250 miles, the maximum RPM you'd have hit would be 4500, and there are few more thousand RPMs to break in. So what I'm going to do is to gradually increase the maximum RPMs up to something like 6000 RPMs until the engine sounds smooth throughout most of the RPMs. Hence, I may do my first oil change around 2000 or 2500 miles, depending on how fast I increase the maximum RPMs...

Does that make sense anyone?

An analysis of the first oil change will *always* have elevated levels of metals and other additives, particularly iron, copper, lead and silicon. some of it is from the engine breaking in, and some of it is from things like assembly lube used at the factory, silicon residue on cast parts, etcetera.

You can pull an early sample if you like, but I don't think the results are going to surprise anyone.

Looking at the lab report from the first oil change on my MINI (at ~12,000 miles), all of the levels I mentioned earlier were above the "watch" level, but below the "warning" level. Of course, the "watch" and "warning" levels don't really apply for break-in oil anyway, since they expect the levels to be high.

I'm pulling another sample this weekend (21,500 total miles the car, ~9,000 miles on the oil, and I suspect that all of the metal levels will have dropped since the break-in oil is out of the car now.

I look forward to seeing your results!

Me too - I wanted to pull the sample earlier in the week, but it's been a busy week, so my hope is to get the sample pulled today and in the mail tomorrow.

Anybody here get their oil changed at a BMW dealer? My MINI dealer is a 2 hour drive and I was thinking I'd get my oil changed around 5,000 miles but have it done closer at a BMW place here. Was just wondering if that'd be a good idea or not.

If you want it done for free under the 3yr/36k maintenance agreement, I think you have to take it to a MINI dealer.

If you just want an oil change and are willing to pay for it, I personally wouldn't have a problem taking it to a BMW dealer, or any other shop that you trust to work on your car.

Wherever you decide to go, it would be a good idea to call ahead and make sure that they carry the oil filter for your car, or at least can get one on short notice.