We're trying to see if we can add the photos rather than the non-working links to the post.

 

Congratulations! That's terrific that you figured it out! I agree: this project is not for the faint of heart. However, with the FWD model and without the door opening sensor it would be easier, but it's still a serious project and will put hair on your chest (sorry Fantastic Choice!). And before you get too excited, remember, you still need to do the wiring! But the wiring is pretty easy (if you follow the instructions I posted above rather than the ones provided with the kit.)

I have been working on cars and motorcycles (as a hobby) for 30 years, and I'm a pretty serious woodworker so I have more tools than most hardware stores, but I still needed to buy something to do the wiring properly. I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Removing the side panels was a bit challenging without these bits. These made it a lot easier.

I agree with you on the plug cover supplied with the kit: Not only is it very difficult to install, but it's tough to line up correctly, and it wiggles out due to vibrations. I found the plug to be a worthless design. My system works like a charm. Good luck on the wiring! You're nearly there.

 

Finally! A fix for this.

Mini now has an update to the software in the car and can reprogram it to require a two-button press (Unlock & Trunk) to automatically open the barn doors.

The reference I have is SIM510916.

Our R55 had scars from my wife coming home and trying to open the garage door while the barn doors had popped open. I've been paranoid about the same for the new Clubman.

 

Awesome update, thanks - my dealer said the bulletin just came in today. A couple of times I've gone out to my driveway in the AM to find a rear door open, wondering if I'd left it that way all night for critters to explore - was likely just the result of putting the fob in my pocket on the way out the door. This will help a lot - getting the re-program next week.

 

I had luck finding an ideal place to run the trailer wiring to the outside of the car and posted the information here:

http://www.minif56.com/forum/825-min...tml#post569410

I'm done with this North American site at least until the moderators created an F54-specific link. This is nuts...

 

OK, I just got everything completed and I'm ready to try actually hauling a trailer -- Sunday looks like a great day to get out of town with our recumbent trikes. I've said the hitch install with the smart door in place is not for the faint of heart; the installation of the electrical trailer harness (called a Modulite) turned out to be beyond me. I could get the panels off the Clubbie interior, but the wiring harnesses ground me to a halt. The shop foreman at the local MINI dealer came to the rescue, working off of the original OutMotoring instructions and JohnnyQuest's necessary updates. He wanted me to share some thoughts with this forum, about electrical wiring mods in general, so I'm posting what he e-mailed me as he was getting the job done (it took him about an hour to do; I reinstalled the panels afterwards). Here's what he has to say:

I’m looking at the wiring in the vehicle and trying to find the yellow and red wire that the person on the forum is talking about and the only one that I can see back there that is close to the size of the power wire that is supplied with the kit is part of a twisted pair of wires that feeds supply and ground to your electronic parking brake. I will not be tapping into these wires as that could ultimately lead to a failure of the parking brake system. I would like to give you some useful information to pass along to the forum folks if that’s ok with you. It’s all a bit technical but it is important when dealing with these newer vehicles and their complicated electrical systems.

I would caution anyone from making any connections to a wire that is twisted together with another wire, or any wire that supplies current or ground to any module. The twisted wires are twisted to prevent any sort of electronic or radio interference in the circuit. The twisting of the wires creates a field around the wires that prevents such interference, but also adding any sort of additional load to the circuit may cause problems. These wires are usually part of a communication or safety system and should not be tampered with. Control modules are typically very sensitive to voltage and current, they are engineered to use only what they need to function so if any additional load is connected to a power source for a module, it may cause some abnormal functions of the module, especially if any connection leads to damage of the conductors or accumulation of corrosion in the wire over time. This sort of thing can be extremely difficult to diagnose and should be avoided at all costs. Worst case scenario aside from anything that may be safety related(obviously), would be damage to the module or thermal damage to the vehicle if the wire overheats.

As far as combining different size wires or adding wires of a different size goes… It is ok to splice a larger wire into a circuit as part of a repair. It is NOT ok to add a smaller wire diameter to a circuit, as this will create a bottle neck effect of the current flowing through the wire. Think of water flowing through a funnel, the restriction of the neck of the funnel will only allow as much water to pass by as the neck is designed to flow unless pressure is added to force the water through the neck. Where this becomes dangerous is that a byproduct of electricity is heat. The voltage(force) required to push current(electrons) through the smaller diameter wire(restriction) may cause overheating of the wire and could lead to thermal damage. Now that that’s out of the way, When it comes to adding another circuit in parallel- basically tapping into an existing circuit(like to get power for the trailer lighting module), it is ok to add a larger wire to the circuit because the size of the wire does not dictate how much current will be used in a circuit and that existing circuit of the vehicle is already designed to carry a certain current based on the component that is being powered in the circuit. This current load can easily be identified(roughly) by the size of the fuse placed in the fuse panel for the circuit of the vehicle. This fuse does not determine how much current will be flowing through the circuit, but identifies how much current is safe to flow through the circuit and is there for circuit protection. In the example of the trailer wiring kit, the kit states to tap into the power circuit for the power port at the rear of the vehicle to supply voltage to the trailer lighting module. The trailer lighting module is supplied with a 15 amp fuse. When we look at the fuse placed in the fuse panel for the circuit on the vehicle we find that it is a 20 amp fuse. This tells me that I should be ok to install this accessory on the power port voltage supply with no cause for alarm. The reverse is also true… If an accessory has potential for a 30 amp draw, you would not want to connect it to a 20 amp vehicle circuit. It will likely blow the fuse at some point due to the potential current demand of the accessory component. When in doubt, ask a professional… Advice is almost always free.

 

Hooray! I'm glad you finally have it back together. Yeah, the wiring is a bit intimidating, but I'm sure I have it correct. And I've done a lot of work with car wiring so it doesn't freak me out. I'm sure you have it right now too. Hopefully, the hitch manufacture will look at our information and re-do his install so he can correct his installation instructions. (Should pay us royalties!)

The "funny" part about all this is that the instructions said the install should take a couple of hours! Ha! Although, now I think I could do it in probably 4 hours (the hitch and the wiring) as long as I have a lift. On jack stands and from the ground, a bit longer.

Hopefully, I'll never have to do this again. But I'd gladly give advice if anyone else attempts it. Once the manufacturers update/revise their instructions and modify the kits to fit the standard, All4, and various other options, it should be fairly straightforward. As of how, I'd put it as an 8 out of 10.

The bottom line with the way I have mine installed, with my custom plug and now with the wiring going under the car (vs out the back door), it's a fantastic set up.

For a point of reference, I weighed my trailer with my dirt bike on it and all my gear. It weights 580 lbs and the tongue weight is 70 lbs. I've used it at least 6 times and honestly can't feel it back there. It's a real mistake for Mini to not offer an OEM hitch option.

 

I've read that MINI has offered an OEM hitch in other markets. I don't know if MINI NA doesn't offer it because they think there isn't demand enough, or if the EU hitches don't comply with US safety regulations, or what. Maybe they just don't want to be liable for some idiot trying to tow a boat. Americans are not renowned for their good sense or their willingness to take responsibility for their actions when they could sue instead.

I've read that in the early 2000's MINI resold the MiniDoMore hitch for a couple years.

 

Hi Guys

Bought the wife a F54 and she wants the Black Jack Mirror Caps.

Her F54 left mirror has the LED Mini welcome Projection that shines by driver door also power folding mirrors.

I've read that power folding need a special cap and might not work also that the hole for the LED projection might not be in the replacement Cap.

Anybody attempted this upgrade or swap yet?

Ian

 

The driver's side mirror caps all have superceded part numbers for 2016 that include a molded spot to punch out for the projector. So the latest part numbers work with or without the projector. So beware buying used or aftermarket, but the latest part from your dealer will work fine.

 

Thanks GDGR

Just ordered it any idea if it just pops off like the previous one did?

Ian

 

Guys

Mirror Caps arrived they are larger then the other models so the F54 has special ones.
The Left mirror has the projection LED that lights up the Mini Logo on the ground.
While it is there it is not precut so a small amount of trimming is required.

Project took maybe 20 Min.

Ian

 

That's what I was trying to describe. It's not that the F54 is bigger than the other cars. The part is exactly the same for F54/F55/F56.

It's just that the projector was new for the '16 F54. So the part that's been available since the F56 came out was superceded, the new part has the molded spot to cut out for cars with the projector -- so new ones will work on any 3rd-gen Mini, projector or not. The original part will only work on 3rd-gen cars without the projector.

 

GDGR

I spoke with Terry at Ferman Mini of Tampa bought many parts from him for MIni & BMW. He says the F54 is a larger mirror Cap and looking at photos of my R58 coupe I have to agree.

Either way it's a very easy swap.

Ian

 

This raises an interesting possibility for the other F-series cars then: retrofitting the projector itself:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_9574

Parts:
LED projector module, $58:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63137425711/

Projector mounting base, $13;
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/51167431935/

Earlier models might not have the mirror support designed to take the base, but that would be simple enough to deal with. And you'd need to tap power that activates at the correct times — perhaps from the door's bottom lamps.

I have other things to deal with so I won't be taking it on at this time. But now that I've pointed the way, perhaps some other enterprising fool shall try.

 

F54 is bigger than R58, yes. But it's the same size as the F55 and F56.

 

Greetings. (Newb here.)

I have been shopping for a new car for the past 10 months and I have it narrowed down to two similar cars. The 2017 Mini Clubman S and the 2017 Mazda 3. I have test driven both power-trains (6MT) and am very familiar with the quirks of both vehicles. I have a slight preference for the Mini, but my hesitation concerns their history of reliability (or lack thereof).

When I buy a car, I tend to keep it for quite a while and I don't hesitate to put the mileage on. My last 3 cars (all Hondas) have had 250k, 230k, and 115k when they found new homes. I am a fairly competent mechanic and I do all of my own maintenance (and have for 15 years), so that aspect isn't a concern at all. However, when I talk to the people who work at the local dealership, or other Mini owners, many, if not most of them lease the cars, so long term reliability isn't a concern for them.

Am I wrong? Is the new Mini platform considerably more reliable?

Regards,
~Ex

P.S.: I have been riding English, Italian, and German motorcycles for years, so I am aware of the... "nuances" of Euro-vehicle ownership.

 

Ex

Buy the Mazda bought one for the daughter great car. She totaled it and it saved her life. The Mini is way more expensive to purchase and maintain for the length of time your asking about.

The Mini however is way more fun and cooler car then the Mazda 3 and more fun to drive. Handling is better and so is acceleration especially on a S or JCW .

Ian

 

Thanks Ian. I thought both cars were pretty comparable in terms of handling, but you're right, the Mini was better in acceleration and had better suspension (electronic) and was more "fun." That is precisely why I had placed the Mini above the Mazda3.

Could you tell me (aside from the $7-10k price difference) how the Mazda3 is "way more expensive" to maintain? Oil, Filters, S.Plugs, Tyres, correct?

~Ex

 

EX

The Mini while it includes Maintenance for the 1st few years you seem like you keep vehicles for 10 plus years. Have you every owned a BMW? That is what Mini has become on the latest F series. There cars drive nice but the engines usually have smoking problems especially if you have a Turbo.

My wife had a 2013 BMW 650I cost 110K had both Turbos replaced Valve train guides redone and numerous other issues. The vehicle was sold with 18K miles and after 2 years. Spent 8 weeks in the shop in 2 years of ownership.

We own many types of vehicles from sports cars to sedans and race cars the reliability of the BMWs have not been good. I base my answer on the fact that Mini is now basically a BMW in a different body.

BTW total of 5 BMW all with issues. The 2 Mazda's 929 and 3 we have owned have had no issues.

Ian

 

hey flyjets~


Navy vet, VA employee, Live in Ruskin, work in St Pete. My first min was Ferman, this time I went to Wesley Chapel

 

Ian,
Thanks again. I do currently own a BMW motorcycle (and a Ducati), so I am familiar with "high maintenance" vehicles. The free service during warranty ownership (3 years) is a wash for me as I live 200 miles from the nearest dealership anyway.

I have done a lot of reading about BMW reliability (Mini included) and that is why I gave pause to ordering my Clubby in July. Thanks for the honest thoughts and feedback. I had hoped that the new universal Mini/BMW platform would prove to be much more reliable but as that doesn't appear to be the case (in addition to potential issues of getting parts from a German owned business operating in the UK in the BrExit aftermath). Looks like I will be putting a deposit on a Mazda3 Sport. Thanks again.

~Ex

 

HERE IT IS!! JCW Clubman~!

http://www.motoringfile.com/2016/09/...i-clubman-jcw/

 

Anyone know pricing it's got to be pushing up towards 50K.

Ian

 

Here is a picture of a Countryman.