R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 driving lamps

Old Aug 9, 2006 | 02:20 PM
  #26  
qwertmonkey's Avatar
qwertmonkey
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
Originally Posted by capnmini
Hey where did you get your driving lights, they look bigger than the other ones ive see before, not to mention cheaper!!!
Good 'ol eBay.

The seller was pretty nice. His site is www.blinglights.com
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 05:00 PM
  #27  
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capnmini
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
Good 'ol eBay.

The seller was pretty nice. His site is www.blinglights.com
Thanks Qwert, ill buy them from that site, i cant believe how cheap they are
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 05:03 PM
  #28  
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His foglights are decent, too.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by qwertmonkey
As for the switch....Well, if you have the tire pressure sensor on your MINI, there is a reset button on the right side of the E-brake. There is a little rectangle on the exact opposite side. It pops out. I fed the wires up to it, and mounted the switch.
How hard was it to pop off the center console peices to run the wires underneath? I have that blank knockout opposit the run-flat reset button and it would be a great place to put the switch,yes - great idea! Also, does the plate have clips that need to be opened from underneath? I tried prying it out with a screwdriver but I was afraid to mar it up.

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:14 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Doogs
Only problem...and one I didn't catch until getting home from taking delivery on Saturday...is that the driver's side light has a terrible case of vibration.
Depending on the grill you have (standard versus Aero)...

the standard has 3 mounting points which the bracket must attach itself to. two lower ones on the frame of the bonnet and one upper one to the actual grill itself.

The aero grill does not have a proper mounting point so a n extention protrudes from the grill, sort of like a finger with a condom on it. it basically sticks out and dampens the lamp vibration. the dealer probably didnt do the install properly. I recommend taking it back and having them correct the problem. Per the advice above, you can download the instructions off motoringfile and review them for your benefit incase the dealer wants to contest your complaint.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
How hard was it to pop off the center console peices to run the wires underneath? I have that blank knockout opposit the run-flat reset button and it would be a great place to put the switch,yes - great idea! Also, does the plate have clips that need to be opened from underneath? I tried prying it out with a screwdriver but I was afraid to mar it up.

Thanks!
Imagox...

center console has two screws. lift up the rubber covers to expose them. beside the center arm rest mounts (if you have an armrest) there are two clips. to detach the console from the clips, you must pull the sides of the console away from the center to releaes the clips. If youre worried, you can do one side first. At least this was how it was in my 06.

Once the console is loose, you can run your finger underneath to relase the clip for the accessory cap... mount your switch there, as I did... Looks factory and fantastic. I wasnt keen on drilling any holes and the space is made for a switch...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #32  
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If you can afford the oem driving lamps, i recommend going with them. Why? As one poster commented, the wiring is top notch. I love having the switch match all the others and it fit perfectly beside my seat adjacent to my parking brake. Its an open accessory button panel .

Ive used my lamps twice thus far since my install. I have to say, these function like driving lamps, offering a beam that shoots further than your standard headlamps. hard to imagine mated to xenons but its true. I wouldnt say the suck because they work great as driving lamps. I reckon the would suck if compared to 6" ifp or xenon rated rally lamps. For maintaining its classic look, i decided to stick with all factory.

Some minor modifications was done on the wiring side. Instead of tapping into the engine compartment for power, i used an empty relay in the fuse box. Also wired the lamps to the Acc so they would only be active if Acc was turned on. The lamps work independant of the highbeams, which is my preference.

Yes they would blind people if they were aimed too high...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by acitydweller
Imagox...

center console has two screws. lift up the rubber covers to expose them. beside the center arm rest mounts (if you have an armrest) there are two clips. to detach the console from the clips, you must pull the sides of the console away from the center to releaes the clips. If youre worried, you can do one side first. At least this was how it was in my 06.

Once the console is loose, you can run your finger underneath to relase the clip for the accessory cap... mount your switch there, as I did... Looks factory and fantastic. I wasnt keen on drilling any holes and the space is made for a switch...
Awesome - thanks so much. My only concern is the reach of the wires. I'd hate to instsll the switch there and then find the wires won't reach. I guess there's always splicing and taping in that case, though.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
Awesome - thanks so much. My only concern is the reach of the wires. I'd hate to instsll the switch there and then find the wires won't reach. I guess there's always splicing and taping in that case, though.
No worries. I can say for my driving lamp kit (with lamp jet washers) the wire harness only reached the shifter after i ran the haress and attached the relay to the right side of the steering wheel column. You will definitely have to extend the switch to reach the accessory cover beside the parking brake. I'd say no less than a foot and a half depending on how you will run the harness. I managed to tuck under neath the center radio console, then ran it under the shifter console, then ran under the rug (above the airbag module) to the openning by the parking brake. use a close hanger but be careful of the other end from marring your seat apolstry. I was careful and the install took several hours of on and off work. Because of how careful i was, I'd say its probably better than any of the install at the dealership, since they are busy cranking out jobs.

I am weary of dealership work. they damaged my chromeline rings while replacing my NAV screen with bad pixels... I have to make another trip to the dealership due to this... isnt life just grand...

good luck. just ping me if you have any other questions. happy to help.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 06:16 AM
  #35  
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The little rubber extension is not limited to the Aero Grill (which requires some cutting of the grill itself) but is also used with the standard grill and the instuctions detail how that works.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 06:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by swizzle
Has anyone rigged up driving style "fog" lamps? PIAA 540's can come as fogs and I was considering them for my ride. I thought about disabling my OEM fog lights and using the switch with the PIAA's. If I aim them low, they shouldn't blind oncoming traffic. What do you think, bad idea?

swizzle
I have the PIAA 540 Ion Fogs mounted on the lower grill. I always drive with them on when I am cruising the back roads (which I love to do) and am never "flashed" by other drivers (which tells me that they are aimed low enough). They have a very wide, dispersed beam and a lot of bling factor too I think. A friend made custom mounts out of 1" square tubing and they are mounted to the bottom of the front bumper. They are rock solid. Here's a pic just after they were mounted.

 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:33 AM
  #37  
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Big Daddy:

You said the key word... "Fog". Fog lights are mounted low and pointed low, so you would be majorly mis-aligned if your fogs were blinding anyone. If they were aimed high, the light would reflect back off of the fog, actually degrading your vision during foggy conditions.

"Driving" lights are generally mounted higher and are aimed higher... sometimes to the outside of the headlight beams, as well. They are used for dark, clear weather, conditions to increase forward and front/side visibility.

PS: Those lights look wicked! Very nice!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:40 AM
  #38  
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From: Windsor, ON Canada
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:46 AM
  #39  
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Those look like driving lights to me, not fog lights. Are they really fogs?
-Cody
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by polizei
Those look like driving lights to me, not fog lights. Are they really fogs?
-Cody
I am absolutely certain. They make the same light in driving or fog light configuration.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:20 AM
  #41  
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Actually fogs have a wide spread beam whereas driving lamps project narrower and further beyond the headlamps. Colors vary so you cant count on all fogs being yellow. Placement of the fogs also vary by application so that cant be based on that either.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by acitydweller
Actually fogs have a wide spread beam whereas driving lamps project narrower and further beyond the headlamps.
True I think Big Daddy was pointing out its the same housing different insides to get the fog pattern instead of the Driving light pattern.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:33 AM
  #43  
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right on. thx motor on.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 10:54 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by motor on
True I think Big Daddy was pointing out its the same housing different insides to get the fog pattern instead of the Driving light pattern.
Correctamundo. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 04:10 PM
  #45  
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Very Nice Big Daddy - looks well executed! Can you post any close-up pictures of the actual mounting/ attachments points? I'm tempted to move mine.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 04:53 PM
  #46  
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From: Windsor, ON Canada
Sure can. This is a closeup of the right hand light taken from the center line of the car. The up and down adjustment is made by loosening the mounting bolts on the light. Side to side adjustment involves sticking a prybar or large screwdriver in the square tubing and twisting. The metal is bendable enough to allow quite a bit of adjustment. There is a vertical bar welded to the 1" square tube which has a flat plate on the top with two holes in it for machine screws that are screwed into the bottom side of the bumper. These puppies are rock solid with no jitter. Hope this helps.

 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 05:58 PM
  #47  
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Hey Big Daddy,

Now that's what I'm talkin about! The PIAA 540 ion fog's but I never thought of mounting them below the bumper. Cool. What did you do for the switch?

Swizzle
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #48  
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Big Daddy
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Originally Posted by swizzle
Hey Big Daddy,

Now that's what I'm talkin about! The PIAA 540 ion fog's but I never thought of mounting them below the bumper. Cool. What did you do for the switch?

Swizzle
I used the switch and relay assembly that came with the lights and mounted it left of the steering wheel where the stock driving lamps switch would be.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #49  
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Are you into looks or do you actually do a lot of night driving? That would figure a lot for me to get the lamps because of the cost.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 09:48 PM
  #50  
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I opted for not paying the massive dealer mark up for diving lamps and installation, but wanted them desparetly. now that i see i can get them on ebay easy, how hard (and how much will it cost) to find a top notch installer? (im a girl who is lucky to know how to check my oil).

thanks

p.s. i am in hollywood, ca.
 
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