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Added my new decals on, used the 3M wheel to remove the old baked on ones.
Paint fading was minimal so I used a rubbing compound to blend it a little bit, didn't spend too much time on it since I was just going to put decals back in the same place.
Here is the shifter ****, you can see the shift pattern has yellowed a little and there is a little super small deformations (maybe rust) on the metal but I think a quick buffing with 0000 gauge steel wool will clean it up.
Checking in from Springfield, MO here.
#835 lives with me now, It's been in my family it's whole life, but I'm technically the 3rd owner after My father and sister. Can post pictures after work.
Question though, the Vinyl stickers are old and faded, is there anywhere reasonably cheap to get replacement sets?
Checking in from Springfield, MO here.
#835 lives with me now, It's been in my family it's whole life, but I'm technically the 3rd owner after My father and sister. Can post pictures after work.
Question though, the Vinyl stickers are old and faded, is there anywhere reasonably cheap to get replacement sets?
Welcome to the club! What's the mileage on her? Any performance mods?
For graphics you can look at FireStorm Graphix or check in with Way and see which ones he has.
Burley is also selling the graphics from the original monte carlo rally car on the marketplace on here if you want to go classic. Just search MC40 in the marketplace search bar.
Welcome to the club! What's the mileage on her? Any performance mods?
For graphics you can look at FireStorm Graphix or check in with Way and see which ones he has.
Burley is also selling the graphics from the original monte carlo rally car on the marketplace on here if you want to go classic. Just search MC40 in the marketplace search bar.
Motor On!
119,500 miles and no performance parts yet. I think I'm going to though as it doesn't look terribly expensive and I'd miss the supercharger if I went with a new JCW instead.
119,500 miles and no performance parts yet. I think I'm going to though as it doesn't look terribly expensive and I'd miss the supercharger if I went with a new JCW instead.
Looks slick, I'm looking to get the checkerboard top as soon as I can stop this hole in my wallet and save up some cash.
I used the 3M powered headlight restorer on mine and it cleaned my headlights right up. I would recommend it.
Just put on my MC40 shift ****, courtesy of JABowders. Luckily did not hit myself in the face. Slowly getting this baby the way I want her. You can see I still need the floormats though. They are NLA from dealers. I've checked, don't believe their parts websites that say they are available, I've asked 3 or 4 of them that their site said they had them.
Looks slick, I'm looking to get the checkerboard top as soon as I can stop this hole in my wallet and save up some cash.
I used the 3M powered headlight restorer on mine and it cleaned my headlights right up. I would recommend it.
Do you have the MC40 floormats still?
I do! The only thing I really need is new decals for the outside, some of the interior trim is starting to crack and the bottom of the doors are starting to rust because it's spent most of it's life in the Great White North, but it's held up pretty well for being 13 years old.
Does anyone here need the #37's? I have vinyl number decals that can be either put right onto your doors, or added to magnetic sheets to make them into magnets. Just shoot me a message if you need um.
Also, has anyone put any sort of protective covering over the number plate to keep it from getting scratched up?
Hi Folks, I was out this weekend, and test Drove # 881. Car was in pretty good shape. Interior was very clean. Exterior paint little faded. Decals missing but had the floor mats and plaq on the console.
Was ready to buy, but when I test drove it, I was surprised at how stiff the shifter was for the transmission. I had 2007 MCS, and now have a 2014 Roadster, both shift with little to no effort.
Can someone tell me if that's the way they are, or is this car in need of work. Also, the clutch pedal needs to be on the floor for a smooth shift.
Hi Folks, I was out this weekend, and test Drove # 881. Car was in pretty good shape. Interior was very clean. Exterior paint little faded. Decals missing but had the floor mats and plaq on the console.
Was ready to buy, but when I test drove it, I was surprised at how stiff the shifter was for the transmission. I had 2007 MCS, and now have a 2014 Roadster, both shift with little to no effort.
Can someone tell me if that's the way they are, or is this car in need of work. Also, the clutch pedal needs to be on the floor for a smooth shift.
I recently dealt with this issue in my #600. I've learned to start with the simplest possibility and go from there. It's most likely a clutch issue so I would start with the fluid level. If the fluid is topped off and you're still having the same problem, I would check the clutch slave cylinder. If the slave fails, that would definitely give you trouble shifting to the point of not being able to shift at all (that's always fun!). I know you only test drove the car but if you consider purchasing, the slave is still an easy fix... But if it turns out that the slave doesn't fix the problem, it's most likely going to be in the fork assemby which requires dropping the tranny to remove the bell housing. Sometimes there could be micro-fractures along the weld points on the fork that, if not caught and fixed, could turn into a headache. Lastly, it could be the clutch assembly itself. There could be some missing teeth that would cause trouble shifting gears.
What I did when I dropped the transmission was I went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly with an upgrade Stage 2 clutch. Because I did that, I discovered the original clutch was worn out and needed to be replaced anyway.
Mine shifts a little hard into first sometimes, besides that it goes easily. I also have to push my clutch all the way to the floor to be able to shift. I have replaced my slave cylinder, easy to check and see if it is leaking. I have never replaced the clutch which may add to the problem but from what I can tell still has plenty of life left in it. If the car is in good shape and you get a good price, I don't think it would stop me personally from getting it.
From the gen 2 to the gen 1 the transmissions dont feel as smooth. When I drive my 2012 and go to my 2005 I can tell the difference. Also make sure the shifter cables are good.
I drove the #750 last week. The car drove fine but showed a bit of a tough life. All of the Carbon fiber dash was delaminating, and the R90 wheels where trashed. At first, it looked good, but once I saw it in person, I decided to pass. It would be a fun drive for someone who was going to replace the dash. I just could not find replacement Carbon Fiber from Mini.
My Daughter and I drove to Ithica NY to see and buy #12. Really nice car, single owner, and gent who owned the car, took very good care of it. We are pretty lucky to get this one. It snowed for 3 of the 6.5 hr commute home, so it got rather salty.
Does anyone have the source graphic for the old MC40 badge, I would like to get badges made or cling stickers made but the attached image to too low res.
Last edited by rockridge; Dec 22, 2017 at 07:01 PM.
Brought #12 in to my local Mini Dealer for 60,000 mile checkup, State Inspection, and New Steering pump from a recall.
Before I left, I ordered one of the few remaining Gen 1 JCW kits from Germany. 2-3 weeks before it arrives. It will be fun to have 210 HP in the MC40!
Hey! I also have a pretty little MC40, although someone removed all of her badges. So I feel silly because my boyfriend showed me how the steering lock worked in my Veronica, but I didn't remember. Most of the time I have not realized I was pulling on the wheel which allowed me to start the car so I have had a couple times where I forced the key, thinking it was sticking and not realizing it was because I wasn't pulling the wheel left. Well, now when I go to start the car sometimes, it doesn't even try to turn over. Did I just seriously mess up my car?
