R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Non Factory Roof Racks...

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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 10:18 AM
  #26  
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dave
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Originally Posted by mtbscott
I don't remember the exact measurements, but I did spread my feet apart a bit more than the Fit Kit proscribed with no ill effects. Not carrying anything as long as you though either. Addressing your other observation, my E46 M3 has roofrack mounts built into the rain gutters under little flaps. Thule makes a specific set of towers that bolt right into them, very sano.
That sounds like something similar to the way VW did the rack mounts on the Jetta IV. My old 2000 Jetta VR6 had studs coming out of the roof specifically for roof racks. The studs were concealed by the weather stripping above the door. The yakima/thule clips clipped over the studs, so the rack was not relying only on friction or on anything plastic. It was the most structurally sound rack attachment I have seen (that didn't rely on drilling into the roof. ).
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #27  
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The old towers...

400 series('00) will work fine with all other parts. Only need the fit kit and it only runs $45(pre taxes). Great.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #28  
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Yakima for me
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 05:03 PM
  #29  
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those racks are costing you mileage . . .

Leaving empty racks on your car is likely costing you between half a mile a gallon and a mile a gallon in fuel consumption due to the increased drag. I verified this empirically several years ago over two 3-month stretches on the same commute. It was a different car (Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon), but I imagine it applies to the MINI as well.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 06:34 PM
  #30  
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Konky
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thats where the wind fairing comes in handy
 
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:38 PM
  #31  
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Plus I take my rack of fairly often. After all I ride my Ghisallo more often versus having riding it on my MINI.


Herbert
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 02:42 AM
  #32  
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Nice...

Originally Posted by BuckeyeMCS
Yakima for me
I went with Thule because it cost me $100 less than the same Yakima setup. Both are great brands. I do like the fact that Yakima can use either round or square bars.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 05:29 AM
  #33  
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From: Highlands, NC
Can the rear bar be mounted further to the rear? I want to carry a sea kayak and I need to spread the pivot point as far as possible. Plus it looks like the the Yak setup above that the weight is more heavily located on the rear bar due to the cantiliever of the bike mount.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 05:40 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by findude
Leaving empty racks on your car is likely costing you between half a mile a gallon and a mile a gallon in fuel consumption due to the increased drag. I verified this empirically several years ago over two 3-month stretches on the same commute. It was a different car (Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon), but I imagine it applies to the MINI as well.
...and the bonus is it's louder too! Seriously, I use my rack 3-4 times a week, taking it on and off each time wouldn't be worth it. I also think it gives the car kind of a "Euro" look.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 11:10 AM
  #35  
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Just incase anyone wants to know.

A 9' longboard will work on a yakima rack. I changed the distance between the bars from 18" to 30". I've also had a 6'5" board and a bike on top with the 30" spread going from DC to the outter bans N.C

here's proof of the 9'

 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 10:45 AM
  #36  
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It seems that whether you go with Thule or Yakima it doesn't make a great deal of difference, but... I have a roof graphic and was wondering if the clamping of the rack will damage the graphic. Does anyone have any experience with this?
 
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