Hey RR, the suggestion to go with a set of 15 inchers & a set of real tires...non runflats is a good one. I bet if you post in the market place you might find someone with a Cooper that would like to trade struts with you. Standard Cooper struts & springs will probably do the trick for you.

Chuck

 

RR,
The first thing to consider is to change the wheels first- (rims and tires)
and not change suspension parts (that's for later if you cannot get enough improvement) yet.

Essentially you want to get higher profile tires in the range of 55 or 60 series.
With stock 15" rims (or even as wide as 15x7" rims) you can use various tire sizes.

Consider-
185/65-15 much softer ride, light weight, lower price
195/60-15
205/55-15

The selection of tires will vary with each size. Look for all season ultra high performance/high performance tires for longer tread ratings but a measure less in handling performance compared to Max performance or ultra high performance summer tires. Ride quality is a little smoother with all season tires.

The stock holey 15x5.5" rims is nice since it fits the MINI well (even the MCS), doesn't really cost that much if you can find some, has the MINI centercap, and only weighs 12 pounds.

Otherwise tirerack.com has quite a few very nice inexpensive 15" rims that will fit the MINI, talk to Alex@tirerack.com

If changing both rims and tires seems too much and you want to keep your stock rims then talk to alex about getting some smoother riding non runflats in all season tires.

Which 16" non runflat tires did you try out??

 

Just keep in mind that air pressure affects a tire's load rating.

 

And the risk of punctures in the boundary between tread and sidewall.

 

I think I addressed that didn't I? Yes, I did. Anyway, 30 PSI is the recommended tire pressure for that wheel size, so I wasn't recommending he underinflate the tire (so as to bring load into the equation). Although, 28 would certainly be in my experimentation plan. So many people have in their brains that "32" is the world's only tire pressure, and I read where so many MCS owners are overinflating their tires under what you can only assume is normal conditions (most people don't bother to state if they keep 200 pound sacks of concrete in their rear end 24/7). We take so much input here as the gospel that there's a tendency to not question the unstated variables. Like tire pressures in this case. My ride is too rough, so how much money do I have to throw at the problem to get it solved? Well maybe the guy is running 35 or more PSI, because he doesn't know any better, or read on this forum from a self-appointed gear head that 35 PSI works best. Stuff like that happens (just take a BMW E46 to a dealer for tire rotation/balance and I'll bet you the car comes back with 32 all around. Well, the E46 uses 30 PSI front, and 35 PSI rear thank you very much). Truthfully, I can't imagine anyone complaining about the ride quality on 16" wheels, given the proper tire pressures. On 17 or bigger, absolutely. Going to 15s might get you a softer ride, but that's the wrong direction for what most people want--cornering grip. Besides, 15" wheels look out of place on a MCS. I don't normally subscribe to aesthetics over function, but all that sidewall looks horrible. In my heart the 16" wheel is the best compromise for street use, but 17" seems to fit the MCS better, and the choice of runflats is far greater, especially now that Bridgestone has entered the market with a 2nd generation runflat that promises to be every bit as compliant as a non-runflat. I have 16" (R84)and 17" wheels, anb I'm going to sell my 17" R99s soon and will probably buy a set of much lighter BBS wheels in 17" (going to price them tomorrow). I'm certain I'll also upgrade to Koni coilovers so I can soften the initial bump a little and actually increase cornering grip--which is what I'm after.

 

If you check with autocross-oriented drivers, most will vote for lightweight 15" wheels for best cornering grip.

The sidewall height and the lower unsprung weight of a 15" wheel will keep the tire in better contact with rough pavement more of the time than a lower-sidewall 16" or 17" tire.

IMHO, the driving I usually do on real roads is more like autocross on rough pavement than like driving on a high-speed track - I don't get to drive on smooth new roads very often...

The choice is up to the driver - optimize for high-speed track or for your local roads...

 

Three letters: FSD..the Koni FSD solves the problem without compromising handling.

 

I completely agree... Leave the springs, change the shocks to the FSD's.

 

OldRick

I agree with your prespective 99% of the time. I think we're near the same age so that may be why?? Anyway, I don't spend my time racing in parking lots, but do find myself at 130+ mph a lot, and occasionally at the Nurburgring or local go-cart track (very very fast cars). I will say that 15" has no advantage over 16" or 17" if total weight is the same. In fact it would be disadvantaged in cornering grip. I would think autocrossers may use the smaller wheel purely as a poor man's gearing change. Smaller diameter wheel, and lighter at that, plus smaller outer diameter tire would greatly enhance roll on acceleration. But extra sidewall equals extra sidewall flex and there's no way to justify that it'll increase lateral grip. And I'm sure autocrossers aren't trying to keep the outer tire diameter equal to stock. Dropping wheel diameter is the easiest way to shed big pounds off wheels, but if you keep tire outer diameter equal to stock, you've compromised cornering, high speed stability, and braking. So, not a solution I would look for. Problem with me and wheels smaller than 17" has only to do with lack of a good variety of runflats. You couldn't pay me to use conventional rubber for real world motoring. Anyway, enough chatter from me...

Cheers!

 

Typically I use an infared thermometer along with a thorough inspection of the tire's scrub characteristics to determine tire pressures. For normal spirited commuter driving I wouldn't consider anything below 30psi in a Mini - based upon the above. Typical spirited commuter driving will raise tires temps 2-3 degrees. This still leaves quite a range given the variation in tires. If you choose to run 28 psi at this time of year specifically, you run the risk of driving under-inflated tires for a portion of your commute as air temps drop precipitously between 4am and 6am.

I brought up load specifically - you were not specific - because it does indeed have a bearing upon safety, more so than comfort or performance.

Personally, seek comfort in the form of a softer suspension set-up. Tires should always be at optimal pressure - given the driving venue.

I don't consider myself a self appointed gear-head. I've driven nearly 2 million miles in my lifetime with a fraction of those on the race track. The information I present here is credible. Most folks are capable of employing normal induction deduction reasoning to figure out what they'll need if they're carrying an extra 200lbs of cement in the back of their Mini's during their daily commute...which is not the norm. If they cannot figure this out, I suggest brisk walking on a pair of properly inflated running shoes...

 

I will say that 15" has no advantage over 16" or 17" if total weight is the same. In fact it would be disadvantaged in cornering grip.

Based upon what information, this? Anyway, I don't spend my time racing in parking lots, but do find myself at 130+ mph a lot, and occasionally at the Nurburgring or local go-cart track (very very fast cars).

You infer I'm a self appointed gear head? There are plenty of performance oriented reasons supporting the use of 15" or 16" wheels over 17".

 

Sorry, I didn't mean for you to get your panties in a wad. I wasn't referring to you in any of my comments. I was speaking to the general audience. What's a brisk commute to you? My commute includes legal triple digit speeds (unlimited in fact). I don't have millions of miles, but I do have over 100,000 in very high performance motorcycles. Due to which, I'm **** about tire pressures, far more than most, and my electronic gauge and trusty Michelin compact dial gauge is dead on. I have all the good gear, compressor, etc. at home because it's that important to me. Since my MCS can't seem to hold pressures more than a couple of weeks, my compressor gets a lot of use. You make it sound like dropping a couple of PSI will have the tires flying off the rims. While I don't think dropping 2 PSI would have any affect on safety, it could create some abnormal wear charateristics. But I doubt that too. More than 2 PSI would be a different story for safety and wear. But I'm satisfied to stay with the stock recommendations...they work for me. I'm not complaining about the ride quality, and German backroads get repaired and rarely repaved, so I drive on my share of rough roads like many others do.

Cheers!

 

Well my panties are in a wad. You griped about self appointed gear heads while delivering opinion as gospel.

My point was simple and on point as a reminder; air pressure affects tire load ratings and therefore safety, and, performance whether driving a car, a motorcycle or a motorscooter.

We don't want folks new to cars thinking they can cure comfort concerns simply by letting out some air.

Now I'm better

 

Here's my last entry here, I promise. Anyway, I hear what you're saying and agree in theory; however, tire pressures can range moderately depending on many factors and still be well in the safe zone. What's unfortunate is that there's no great source for tech info where "credible sources" have figured out some ideals for the masses. For example, when I lived in Hawaii I had a new '96 Miata M Edition. On the Miata net, it was reported, rather credibly, that 28 PSI was the ideal PSI for spiritied driving. That was about 4 PSI under what the manual called for, as I recall. In that car, it definitely seemed to provide more mechanical grip. With the tires inflated to standard, the tires seemed to bounce off road abnormalities more so and the car definitely understeered more, especially on turn in. That brings up another point, most if not all manufacturers set up cars for safety primarily for the masses (i.e., designing in understeer). Well, I don't consider myself the average driver (I wouldn't have bought a MINI S if I did) and I don't want the car to exhibit behaviors in which quell performance. My MINI S is still a blank canvas somewhat, but that'll change moderately. I'm intersted in this topic because I'm trying to decide what to do first. My heavy wheels have got to go, so that's high on the list. It's cheaper for me to buy 17"s because my summer rubber only has 3100 miles on it. Whereas I want to buy some high-end BBS because of the ultra quality, you have to spend big dollars there to shave sigificant weight. I'm hoping the Euro prices are a better value. Afterall, they're made just down the Autobahn from me toward Switzerland. After that, it's got to be shocks, or possibly coilovers. For engine upgrade I'm thinking to not go the CAI route, but pick up the HP/touque via exhaust and larger intercooler with a drop in higher flowing filter. That'll give more pep without the supercharger drowning out everything. I prefer the exhaust note to the supercharger whine.

Sorry to RR and all for getting off topic...

 

Hey everyone who's responded:

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Just a few more questions.

Would the labor for any of the spring/shock replacements you've all suggested best be done at my mini dealer, or should i just take it to my local mechanic?

Also, it sounds like the MCS convertible comes stock with the SS suspension, not the SS+? I wonder then why my mini dealer said they couldn't "retrofit" my MCS (non-convertible) with the SS suspension, as opposed to the SS+ it came with??

Happy Holidays,
-=RR=-

 

What timing. Just got my latest edition of Roundel (BMW Car Club of America monthly) today and there's a multi-page spread on the new Koni FSDs. They, along with TireRack, set up a comparison at TireRacks autocross course and pitted a comparo with three identically equipped E46 3 series 2 door coupes with the only difference being the shocks. One had OEM shocks, the other Koni adjustables (set to full soft), and the third Koni FSDs. Their drivers got the best times out of the Koni FSDs and stated the shocks were "Buick Century" soft over bumps until in corners, where it was autocross stiff. They were blown away at how well they worked and couldn't praise them enough. Stated it was the perfect real world suspension upgrade for everyone except those that needed dedicated race setups. I'm sold, and forget lowering springs...they're not needed.