There is more than one type of performance. For road racing many people prefer the larger diameter wheel low profile tire for its cornering ability. For the same overall diameter the 17" tire/wheel combo is going to deform less in a corner than the 15". This should translate in a higher ultimate lateral force (faster through the twisties):smile: .

 

Let me try to bring some perspective here.

If your looking for 0-60 times in a MINI, any MINI, you will be sorely disappointed. This isn't a Mustang GT or any other rumbling V8 with tons of torque. Stock Evos will eat you for breakfast never mind truly fast cars.

The fun comes in at 4500 and above where the greater HP on the JCW shines. The car is about an overall balanced, fun to drive vehicle meant to be shifted and taken to the redline ... not acting like 16 year olds in American Graffiti. The JCW and MINI is refined, not a muscle car

If you want to understand auto vs Man times, see the gearing difference at http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7062

The higher the final drive ratio, the faster the acceleration but the lower the top speed (all things being equal).

I think I got that right. Its like when you ordered a 4.11 rear end on a Vette. You wanted that higher gear ratio for greater acceleration.

Good LUCK!

 

I have had no issues with Knauz since I bought the car a year ago. I have taken it back only twice and that was to have an Ipod adapter and the JCW kit and alarm installed.

I had the JCW kit and the factory alarm system installed about a week after I bought it. I think there were about 200 miles on the car when it was installed. They supplied a loaner car for the two days it took to do the install. I now have about 4,500 miles on the car . I know...I should drive it more. At this rate, I'll have had the car over two years before the first service is due at 10,000 miles.

I do agree with all the other suggestions that make the point of going with what makes sense to you. You can probably achieve similar performance with aftermarket parts. The down side is what, if anything, that will do to your warranty if you have problems. The final answer: go with what feels right to you.

 

I have always found this to be an interesting topic... I have gone with a smaller rolling diameter, and will continue to do so with my next purchase later this week...

As Abbett says above, one should not go much smaller than stock, but then what is "stock" size? Here's a list from MINI2 that is quite helpful:

+-----------+-------------------+
| TIRE SIZE | DIAMETER |
+-----------+-------------------+
| 195/55-15 | 23.44in (595.5mm) |
| 205/40-17 | 23.46in (595.8mm) |
| 215/50-15 | 23.46in (596.0mm) |
| 215/45-16 | 23.62in (599.9mm) |
| 195/50-16 | 23.68in (601.4mm) |
| 185/60-15 | 23.74in (603.0mm) |
| 215/40-17 | 23.77in (603.8mm) |
| 205/55-15 | 23.88in (606.5mm) |
| 215/35-18 | 23.93in (607.7mm) |
| 175/65-15 | 23.96in (608.5mm) |
| 225/45-16 | 23.97in (608.9mm) |
| 205/50-16 | 24.07in (611.4mm) |
| 225/40-17 | 24.09in (611.8mm) |
| 225/35-18 | 24.20in (614.7mm) |
| 195/60-15 | 24.21in (615.0mm) |
| 205/45-17 | 24.26in (616.3mm) |
| 215/55-15 | 24.31in (617.5mm) |
| 195/55-16 | 24.44in (620.9mm) |
| 215/50-16 | 24.46in (621.4mm) |
| 185/65-15 | 24.47in (621.5mm) |
| 215/45-17 | 24.62in (625.3mm) |
+-----------+-------------------+

In orange are the stock sizes for the MINI. As one can see, the range is from less than 24", to nearly 24.5". I had stock 16's for the first 18 or so thousand miles, so I was on the high end. I have since gone with 205/45 - 16's, which are like 23.3". If one wishes to use 24" as stock size, then I was over that by .44", and now I'm under it by .7". It's really no biggie...

Some folks change for seasonal reasons also, and in the end, the odometer gets averaged-out quite well. And if one just stays smaller like myself, simply note the smaller tire size, and calculate the excess that was "added" to the odometer, assuming that this would be for resale purposes...

The speedo reads maybe a couple mph faster than actual, but then what stock fittment size is actual speed? I can barely see a difference in the speedo...

What I can tell is the increase in torqueiness, if that's a word . Dropping 4.5% in rolling diameter from the largest of the stock fittments makes a notworthy difference down low. Considering that I also added 10.75 lb wheels (Volk CE28N's) further enchanced the acceleration.

Some other benefits include natural lowering. An inch smaller rolling diameter equates to a .5" drop (half above & below the axle). And while these tires are turning a bit more than larger ones, and with that wearing faster, they are cheap! I can get Yoko AVS ES100's in this size for like 80 some dollars. I am thinking about trying Toyos in this size though just to experience something different, but even then, they can be had for just over 100 each. And at 18 pounds each (2 lbs less than the Yokos), that's the best type of loss to have - rotational, and at the extreme edge, as opposed to the inner wheel...

Just wanted to share my thoughts on this subject...

 

I know that the general consensus is to go with 17 inchers for track (or street for that matter).. but if you don't need or want that big size for a bbk, I believe lighter and smaller is better.... 15 inch makes sense to me... with 225/45-15 in race compond ( although smaller in diameter it gives a 225 section with along with a 45 sidewall ratio, lowering ride height about 1/2 inch)..


or 205-55-15 for street fun....

but to each his own... I would think that the concept of smaller and lighter is better in this case hopefully would make sense to MINI folks... Lets save the 20 inch bling bling wheels for the suv's

 

Huh? What is the stock MCS doing from the 1/4 mile to the 1/2 mile point? Treading water maybe?

 

I think you hit the nail on the head with the comment about not wanting to, (or being able to), pay $6,000 for the JCW kit, and making it seem like it's not worth the money helps with the fact that they don't have it. At least in some cases this is the reason.

Kinda like I used to hear people giving reasons why it wouldn't be fun to be rich..........yeah, right!!

 

resmini- my point was: In a 1/2 mile drag race both cars could reach speeds that are insane for a signalized motorway. I know I would have let up well before the 1/4 mile mark. I just find his story hard to swallow.

 

OK

 

But by that same token, there are those who can afford the JCW kit but wouldn't pay for it because it's ridiculously overpriced for what you get. I'd be one such person.

 

Which is exactly why I said, "at least in some cases this is the reason."

 

or realize that for $30,000 you can buy an R32, 350Z, Rx8, etc. My point is, is that the MINI is made for handling, and the JCW kit doesn't improving handling, well not $6,000 worth. So I'm happy with my MCS w/ springs and rear sway.

 

I'm a second. No way do I pay for a stupid name or sticker!

 

Me too. I have no desire to pay extra for disingenuous branding.

 

I dont think I paid 5,800 for a stupid name or sticker, I paid for the R&D that went into the tunning kit to make it the best and reliable that it can be!! Something that BMW felt comfortable in keep the warrenty, YOu make is sound like all of us that have invested the money in the JCW KIT are a bunch of fools, I think you are sadly mistaken, I am not trying to pick a fight, but you dont hear us JCW making cander remarks about people putting after mark mods in, or not moding at all.

I have driven a fully mod car, with the best parts considered by most! Its a very nice and has plenty of power, but it feels completly diffrent than my JCW, My JCW feels very refine!!

 

Again with the 'refined'...refined, refined, refined...you guys seem to get your talking points straight from MINIUSA.

 

I would not have gone for the previous dealer installed kit, too expensive. But for 2006 the factory kit includes the brakes and LSD so you're getting more value. I got to test drive MCS's with and without JCW engine mods and I think the 40ish extra horsepower is significant on this car. When ordering my car, I decided the performance extras meant more to me than luxury items, so the MSRP with JCW will be similar to what many of you have paid with leather/sunroof, etc. I also understand the concept of automotive pricepoints, spending anything much above $30K on a Mini has diminishing returns. That said, I want a Mini for what a Mini is and the JCW package enhances that experience for me.

 

Empty words. That's what everyone says about the JCW kit. "I paid for reliability and the R&D!" I don't see many people having trouble with aftermarket air intakes, pullies(of comparable size) or the like. Not to mention the close(and in many cases better) performance along with it. So, I'm not sure what exactly that boast gains you.

 

I'll have to say that I can only chuckle at people who pay over $30k for a Mini. That's brand new fully optioned Evo/STi territory, both of which look just as good(entirely subjective) and perform FAR better.

 

FWIW: I think the '06 MCS JCW will be the cream of Oxford's crop.

 

Hey you got it! The JCW is refined. Does it tune for every last drop of power? No, its designed to deliver a smooth power band (not just increased peak power) running on the gas that is available in the countries the MINI is sold. They put over 100k test miles on the kit in extreme high and low temperatures and MINI has enough confidence in the kit to back it with a full factory waranty.
REFINED YES IT IS!

Edit: JCW is also CARB Certified

 

Well, refinement isn't worth $30k+ in a hatchback. Now, a Mercedes sedan? That's refinement.

Edit: I realize that what I'm saying might sound negative or that I don't like Minis. I do. I just understand that there's a limit to the value of these cars as pertains to price.

 

Well, I don't feel mine is in anyway unrefined - and it cost me 1/4 the price of the JCW kit for the same performance...and I don't see any Alta 15% pulley failures, or MTH ECU failures...or aftermarket intake failures...so I'll keep my few thousand dollars for a warranty I will most likely never need! LOL

Bottom line is, you paid at least 50% of that cost JUST for the warranty coverage. Think about it - a 100% markup JUST for warranty coverage. That is pretty foolish to me, I'm not that paranoid to throw money away on a slight chance of something happeneing. I researched what was reliable, researched what worked and made power, and went with it.

My god, sometimes I think the more JCW stuff costs, the more some people like it, just to rationalize it to themselves.

 

I share this belief as well.

 

Most people don't need it, or care. Don't worry though - that was passed down to the customer in the price too