Rats you are right....sometimes those guys want an arm and leg for things though. Hmmmm.

Well already ordered up. I have other cars so I am good. I'd rather have it not sit but I have other things to work on.

 

I think I came to this party a little late and kinda skimmed through the responses. I ran into the same thing and covered it on my Bargain $500 Mini Build thread.

The short version is the threaded side I heated and probably would have come out but it was the non-threaded side that was seized. I had never had seen this before but there it was.I sprayed BP blaster on the bolt and the the next day put a socket on the head and promptly snapped the head off, I thought it was the threaded side the seized but it was the other side. I cut the bolt off through the gap and the threaded side actually unscrewed as it was he shouldered side that seized,. Who knew?

So; A few pointers for drilling out bolts from 50 some years of struggling with this sort of thing.

Drilling in metal, Especially bolts that are normally harder metal.

#1 Despite the fact they are called "high speed drill bits" this is the last thing you want to do, ie; Stick the bit to the surface and just pull the trigger on the drill. What you actually want to do is apply pressure and and have the drill turning soooo slowly that you can count the revolutions. I mean really, really, really slow. You are going the correct speed, and applying the correct pressure when you get 2 little "curls cues" of metal, like 2 springs coming off each flute of the bit. Perfect is 2 "curly-cues" that are continous and 3-4 inches long or more. That's a little hard to achieve without a brand new, correctly sharpened bit, which most hardware store and overseas junk are not.

I get all of my bits from McMaster-Carr, and usually get the short "jobber bits". I keep bags of each size and when I'm down to 1-2 I order 5-6 more. I'm still not past toasting a bit here and there and it good to have spares.

On my Bargain Mini thread there's a post about drilling out valve cover bolts that goes into this with photos.

#2 if you are pressing really hard with the drill spinning really fast, and are just getting "metal flake" size bits of metal, just stop. Throw that bit away or sharpen it, [a whole different skill level] as it's toast. And, by spinning a worn out bit at high speed with lots of pressure, all you're doing is "work hardening" the bolt you are trying to drill out.

#3 To be honest, going slow enough, with a sharp bit, you really don't need oil as you are drilling so slowly you're really not generating any heat. Plus you end up pausing the give your arms a rest. giving things time to cool off
I mean you are drilling so slow you can count the revolutions. Patience is the keyword! If you get the "curly-cues, right speed, right pressure, if not, dull drill, and too fast a speed, or sharp drill and not enough pressure [and too much speed].

#4 increasing drill bit size, [one step at a time]. I used to do the same thing. then had a long discussion with a machinist friend who not too kindly explained why I was being a dumb sh*t.
It would seem logical to "creep-up" on a hole. but you can end up seizing the bit and maybe snapping it off. It's really better to go up at least 2-3 sizes, even more, once you have a straight pilot hole. The next bit after the pilot can be 2-3 times the size of the first hole as long as the pilot hole is large enough that the flat spot between the 2 flutes fits in the hole. and your going sloooow. [notice the theme here?]

Here's what you want; Same thing just different size. I've been doing this stuff for 50 years and didn't figure this out until 20 years ago!




Drilling out valve cover bolt the heads of which had compleatly rusted away.

Just Go Slow! If you are making little flakes [or even dust] you're going too fast, [or the bit is shot] and once that happens the drill bit is probably toast.

Good luck and I hope this helps. and check out my Bargain $500 Mini Build where where I went through the exact same thing.
robj

 

Hey you tried looking into a local machine shop. I'm sure they could get it out for you. I may cost a little more than 50 bucks. But you can get it back pretty quick

 

I don't know which side you need, this is the passenger side, $46 shipped. Don't be put off by the rust. You can clean it up and exchange parts from your original knuckle.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Passenger-R...AAAOSwQj9eC6cL

 

r53,

So we've given up on drilling the old one out? If you're going to replace the carrier anyway, why not remove the old carrier so you can put it in a vise and actually work on it.
You don't have anything to lose but a little time. Spend the $100 or so that you were going to spend on the carrier and buy a decent set of drill bits. and a set of metric taps. I had a good set at my other shop but they were loaned out. I wanted a set for my boat shed where I'm working on the Mini and bought these off amazon. I'm pretty picky about tools but for $29.00 this was an amazingly good set.


And give a shot at reading my post on drilling out studs and bolts. This is not rocket science.
This is the part you want. I'm not sure which side you're looking for but this is what it looks like;




Not to throw water on your campfire but is this the first side you took apart or did the other side go ok?

I would take the old one off the car, [which you're going to have to do anyway] and give another shot at drilling it out. You might learn something even if it's what not to do, [sometimes the more important lesson]

Mine was actually seized up on the non-threaded side, [the side with the bolt head] which made things easier.

I used a hack saw to cut the bolt in half through the slot in the carrier, then drilled a hole in the threaded side, 3/16 then 1/4 then 5/16.[DRILLING REALLY SLOW-SEE POST ABOVE] Heated it up good, put an easy-out in and it just un-threaded. NO DAMAGE TO THE THREADS. To be honest I don't think the threaded side was seized at all. It was the non-threaded side.

As soon as the threaded side was out I was able to tap the other side out with a punch.

Give it a shot, nothing to lose.

good luck,
robj

 

Thanks, I think you might have missed my previous post about that.

 

Yes, I did give up. Thanks but I already purchased the part on Ebay at close to $100. Your post was not in vain though at all. That was super helpful and informative! The passenger side was just fine.

 

It was the driver's side unfortunately. I spent about one hour sorting by price and it was the best that I could reasonably do. I guess that the sellers already know that the driver's side pinch bolt is the one to go and charge more for that side.

 

Coincidently enough, It was the drivers side on mine as well. I can't imagine what would make one side different than the other.
Unless the guy on that side of the line went out for one too many "smoke breaks".

I'm really curious if it was the threaded side or the non-threaded side that seized.
Or did you not get that far?
rob

 

Lol @ smoke breaks. I have not gotten that far to inspect yet so no unfortunately. The knuckle arrived and is in great shape. I have some instructions on removing here and via pm.

Was hoping for some youtubes but nothing. Most revolve around replacing one or two of the components but not the assembly. Guess I will take my time and hopefully not damage anything else.

If you all know of anything more visual, please let me know.

 

This might help;

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

or this
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

Robj

 

Thanks...got it off with the brake rotor and all. Surprising level of pain in the ***. Several brake related connectors involved, danger of breaking cables, lines and connectors at every turn. Ultimately got it.

 

So after many additional surprise hassles like frozen bolts that mushroomed sockets and would not turn with an impact I hit another roadblock.

After finally getting the rotor off and the frozen T50 bolt, I noticed that the lugbolt threads in the new hub were much larger than that for which I removed which were 12M 1.5.

I read somewhere that there was a transition to M14 at some point. This assembly was supposed to have come off of a 2006s like mine....probably came from a later 06s.

Is that when the transition took place? Is it as simple as removing the 4 bolts and transferring that hub assembly over or are there other roadblocks? I can see that my rotor does not sit hubcentrically on the new hub assembly either. It just slides all over.

What a pain this has been!

Thanks.

 

Looks like you've been getting quite an education with what started out as a seemingly simple project.

Yes, the 4 bolts are what holds the hub on but you do need to remove the brake caliper and the rotor. You don't need to remove the axle, the hub should come right off.

It would be a good Idea to give the 4 bolts a liberal spray, front and rear of BP Blaster. [not WD40] BpBlaster is the only thing that really works in my experience. And, let it sit overnight.

Sometimes the rotor can be a little tough to remove.

Here's a thread discussing the issue of getting the rotor off. Read the whole thing as some of the replies have some sketchy information.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

You can do a search of the threads on the forum for others that have had similar issues to what you're facing.

Can you post a photo of the inside of the hub for the bolt condition?
Robj

Photo of the hub and carrier apart. The little lip on the inside of the hub can sometimes be stuck to the carrier but a few hammer taps usually will loosen that up and it will pop off. It's not a bad idea to put a tiny bit of never-seize around that lip on re-assembly.

 

Thanks so much for all of this. I did get the rotor and caliper off. It's just those 4 bolts for the hub/wheel bearing that I have to get off. They came off fine on the "new" knuckle assembly just fine.

The old bolts are soaking in Kroil overnight. What I am really wondering is if the old hub can be swapped over to the "new" assembly with no issues. I am probably worrying about nothing but this problem was completely unexpected.

Thanks and I will take pics if I can't remove the old hub.

 

Kroll is the other penetrating fluid that works as well. Good choice.
Although I'm not positive I do remember seeing where the lug bolts had changed and maybe it was even mid-year.
That being said it would be hard to imagine they would change the carrier or the axle splines. You will probably have to use your old hub and rotor though.

I think it will probably go right together. Once it comes apart that is.
rob

 

Thanks for being there. I have suspected the Kroil is overrated actually. I am going back to Liquid wrench. Only thing is the flammability with Liquid Wrench.

It seems like I should be good once I replace the hubs. Just scared that there may be a different sensor or something.

 

I used to use both PB-Blaster and Liquid Wrench (leaned toward the PB)
But now I use a home mix mentioned on another forum.

50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone, just mix up what you need at the time, works excellent.

 

So the problems persist. I ended up getting 3 out of 4 bolts off of my old hub/bearing but the 4th bolt would not come out. I cracked 5 13mm sockets trying to get it out before it finally rounded the bolt.

I am just going to try to get another used or new hub and try to keep moving along.

Are there any budget hubs that are priced decently? I have asked the seller for a credit so I can shop for one.

 

I did the same thing with my bearing hubs. I went an purchased this. Saved my ***.

 

I bought these. Been on my mini for 2 years. No problem at all.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F202472798045

 

You may
I've used this tool a few occasions , (Exhaust Manifold Bolts), worked great!! Get these tools and PBBlaster and spray the crap out of your hubs.. I'm sorry you are experiencing such a headache with this hub. Sometimes s#!+ should not be this hard....You may want to invest in a decent impact wrench....

 

Thanks everyone. I have these extractors actually but the harbor freight variety. I didn't bother much since I can't find the 13mm size for some reason.

Mention was made on getting a better impact? Any suggestions? I have the harbor freight electric one. I can usually move a bolt better than that thing with the right leverage even though it gets good ratings.

As to the Chinesium hub, is there something different about that one which made you buy it vs. the other chinese ones? I might give it a try but just curious.

Thanks!

 

Get them from autozone. I had the same problem. All of mine were rusted an rounded off All my hubs. Got the set from autozone an it saved my ***. They sale the set with 13mm.

 

I had some really stubborn lug nuts on the GF's Expedition (previous owner had a trucking company and used a 1" impact on them) tried a few and had best luck with the HF Earthquake-XT impacts, ended up with both air and 20v, the air worked as good or better than a Snap On I borrowed.

And yes, a good set of twist socket nut extractors can be invaluable.