As title says trying to figure out what is wrong here. I believe my compressor may be failing but not 100% sure.

Put manifold gauges on and here are the stats:

Ambient Temp = 89 degrees (60% High humidity here South Florida)

After 20 minutes idling (I put box fan in front of the condenser to simulate driving airflow):

Low Side = 47 psi
High Side = 150 psi

*Compressor runs but doesn't ever cycle/turn off
*I can hear refrigerant hissing in cabin - Does this mean Expansion valve is functioning?
* Pulled driver side plastic console plate off to access expansion valve. Evaporator lines connecting to valve - one line is cool, other room temp inside cabin. Normal? Should both be cool?
* 1 a/c vent blows warm, all others cool somewhere maybe in upper 70's. Will put a gauge at vents later and get temps

Recently my wife drove through severely flooded road and a transmission issue occurred. It's a CVT, disconnected the battery and seems like it corrected itself after couple days. I'm wondering if something damaged the A/C compressor? It sounds a little noisy/hiss.

Anybody have an idea what is wrong here?

Safe to assume Low side is a little high, High side is low?

Any help is greatly appreciated... Thanks!

 

The compressor does not automatically cycle on/off like non-automotive HVAC systems do. If you have the a/c button on(light on) then the compressor will clutch in, a/c button off(light off) then the compressor will clutch out. Also, the radiator fan should be operating on high anytime the a/c is activated and operating based of engine temp when the a/c system is off.

Typically compressors don't go bad, it's normally the clutch. So if you can look down at the compressor pulley with the a/c button on and off and verify that it is clutching in and out then you can probably rule out the compressor.

Driving through flood water though, since the compressor is so low on the car, definitely could fry the compressor clutch solenoid coil.

Based on your manifold pressures it would also appear you are low on refrigerant.

Let me know how it goes. Cheers

 

Ok, These compressors do go bad from time to time, but the clutch is more likely normally. In your case the compressor is running, so those two are not your problem. It may need more R134a installed in it, as the high side is low, as normally around 290 psi. Another important aspect of the BMW heating/ cooling system is the blend door, inside the cab, with in the heating/cooling system. Turn the temperature **** to hi heat, the low cool a couple of times, as they can stick, from debris and cycling it may get it working right again.
Let us know, how it goes!

 

Hey guys thanks for the feedback. Yes compressor is running. Only low speed fan seems to be on... I will take the moving the dial suggestion too.

I will also add some refrigerant. However, after reading all kinds of online ac troubleshooting charts I thought the low psi at my ambient temp stated was normal or slightly higher than normal range (30-45 psi) meaning refrigerant level was normal.

wish I had a service manual with specs. I imagine every system has different ratios.

 

If you are low on refrigerant, it means that you have a leak. Before you add new refrigerant, find the leak and fix it.

 

Superseal did me just right. Use at your own risk. People can say what they want about "doing it right" but I just take chances and go with what works. Haven't had any problems yet.

There are some great articles out there on the Mini Cooper S A/C system, charge etc. if you google around to include correct pressures. One of the articles is way off but the other is spot on.

 

This thread caught my eye as my AC wasn't that cold either.
I had normal pressures according to my guages. I cycled from cold to hot a dozen or so times and it got noticable colder. Thanks for that tip and hope this works for you too.