R53 boost pressure
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4th Gear
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The sensor I'm referring to is the whatever is measuring intake psi. It's location matters. The OBD2 data stream has 2 #'s for intake pressure. Is that coming from one sensor or two? I saw different results when I looked at the data, but I'm wary of drawing conclusions until I know where those sensors are and where the OP's sensor was. The reason location matters is that there's an throttle with a butterfly valve controlled by the throttle. Then there's a supercharger, an intercooler and head that is sucking air. That's 4 variables impacting intake pressure. We're talking about swapping out an OEM part that is marketed as having less flow restriction then the aftermarket part. What happens to the air pressure at the sensor, as other variables in it's environment change, depends on it's location.
Re. I'm giving us all a flow dynamics lesson on boost pressure and volume. Maybe. I'm trying to help. Maybe one can't hardly swing a cat here w/o hitting a mechanical engineer. If that's the case, that's totally awesome. I'm a mechanical engineer, I've been racing BMWs for 11yrs, I've done many dozen dyno sessions experimenting with ideas, and I build my own engines. I'm not trying to be a ********, really. I'm trying to explain why, in this thread, it's maybe not so clear that the big intercooler was a fail. The car would need to get on a dyno before a result could be called "pretty conclusive". It seems like the psi at the intake manifold was lower for the aftermarket intake, but maybe, probably not, but maybe,it was also colder for a net gain.
Re. testing by companies. None of that can be trusted. Too easy for that all to be marketing crap. I give you, for example, cold air intakes. I'll give you another example. OEMs do a lot of testing on intakes, but afternarket air filters marketed towards enthusiasts will tout a hp gain. That's BS. In my BMW race series when we find a car that has too much hp, we tape over his air filter a bit in order to drop his hp down to the allowed threshold. In order to drop the hp be even 2, we have to tape over half of the air filter. In terms of those #'s that end up in car mags, OEMs know what they are doing and aftermarket hp mods are mostly BS.
Re. I'm giving us all a flow dynamics lesson on boost pressure and volume. Maybe. I'm trying to help. Maybe one can't hardly swing a cat here w/o hitting a mechanical engineer. If that's the case, that's totally awesome. I'm a mechanical engineer, I've been racing BMWs for 11yrs, I've done many dozen dyno sessions experimenting with ideas, and I build my own engines. I'm not trying to be a ********, really. I'm trying to explain why, in this thread, it's maybe not so clear that the big intercooler was a fail. The car would need to get on a dyno before a result could be called "pretty conclusive". It seems like the psi at the intake manifold was lower for the aftermarket intake, but maybe, probably not, but maybe,it was also colder for a net gain.
Re. testing by companies. None of that can be trusted. Too easy for that all to be marketing crap. I give you, for example, cold air intakes. I'll give you another example. OEMs do a lot of testing on intakes, but afternarket air filters marketed towards enthusiasts will tout a hp gain. That's BS. In my BMW race series when we find a car that has too much hp, we tape over his air filter a bit in order to drop his hp down to the allowed threshold. In order to drop the hp be even 2, we have to tape over half of the air filter. In terms of those #'s that end up in car mags, OEMs know what they are doing and aftermarket hp mods are mostly BS.
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Bryan
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4th Gear
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It’s a easy task to switch them out so I will check it again.
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It’s a Marshall electric and I t’d in the fuel pressure vacuum line per tge instructions. So there is a vacuum line that runs from the t it runs over to a transducer that converts pressure to electric.
6th Gear
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your location is perfect....that's where I put both of mine.....but I used a complete mechanical gauge with the 1/8" line.......I have never been a fan of transducer style gauges.....voltage differences will affect readings also....
Be interested in your second readings after the swap......I know that they are gonna drop......
Would be interesting to maybe "T" a true mechanical vacuum-boost gauge in tandem and see if your transducer gauge gives the same readings as a true mechanical gauge......might be more of a hassle though
Bryan
Be interested in your second readings after the swap......I know that they are gonna drop......
Would be interesting to maybe "T" a true mechanical vacuum-boost gauge in tandem and see if your transducer gauge gives the same readings as a true mechanical gauge......might be more of a hassle though
Bryan
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4th Gear
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your location is perfect....that's where I put both of mine.....but I used a complete mechanical gauge with the 1/8" line.......I have never been a fan of transducer style gauges.....voltage differences will affect readings also....
Be interested in your second readings after the swap......I know that they are gonna drop......
Would be interesting to maybe "T" a true mechanical vacuum-boost gauge in tandem and see if your transducer gauge gives the same readings as a true mechanical gauge......might be more of a hassle though
Bryan
Be interested in your second readings after the swap......I know that they are gonna drop......
Would be interesting to maybe "T" a true mechanical vacuum-boost gauge in tandem and see if your transducer gauge gives the same readings as a true mechanical gauge......might be more of a hassle though
Bryan
2nd Gear
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Boost is a measurement of restriction. More boost is more heat. You are getting high PSI with a lower pulley because you've created more restrictions in the air way path. Meaning the cylinders can't take in and take out the volume of air you've increased by spinning the rotors faster.
So don't think you lost power because your boost gauge is now reading lower with a bigger intercooler. Unless the drop is PSI is due to a leak you are being more efficient, creating less heat.
So don't think you lost power because your boost gauge is now reading lower with a bigger intercooler. Unless the drop is PSI is due to a leak you are being more efficient, creating less heat.
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4th Gear
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I reinstalled the new intercooler and this time I had a harder time getting the cooler seals in place and wondered if I didn’t get it sealed tightly before. Took it for a drive a totally different as in better. My gauge read 15-16 psi. and pulled hard to redline. Now I’m happy with it and performed like I was hoping. Even the gauge was more responsive that’s what makes me think about the seals and the trickier it was..
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From: soggy pnw
All I can say is I am glad that I refrained from partaking in this thread. You just never know how it would turn out when the OP shared very little of the details of the installation specifics. For some time I was thinking about the real life implications of thermodynamics and universal gas laws. 
Oh, I am not a liability lawyer 
nor MTE with decade of aerospace experience 
. So many are so quick to call for the head of the vendor 
.
Oh, I am not a liability lawyer nor MTE with decade of aerospace experience . So many are so quick to call for the head of the vendor .
2nd Gear
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Who cares, it's just an online forum =)
Also here is why I think the garden hose analogy is wrong from a previous post.
The goal is to fill the cylinder with air.
So squeezing the garden hose to fill a bucket when the water flow/supply is the same ain't gonna fill the bucket any faster. And by actually squeezing and plugging the end to shoot the water we've created a restriction AKA increase in pressure but same end result.
The stock intercooler is probably the most "optimum" size for the stock application.
Also here is why I think the garden hose analogy is wrong from a previous post.
The goal is to fill the cylinder with air.
So squeezing the garden hose to fill a bucket when the water flow/supply is the same ain't gonna fill the bucket any faster. And by actually squeezing and plugging the end to shoot the water we've created a restriction AKA increase in pressure but same end result.
The stock intercooler is probably the most "optimum" size for the stock application.
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4th Gear
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Who cares, it's just an online forum =)
Also here is why I think the garden hose analogy is wrong from a previous post.
The goal is to fill the cylinder with air.
So squeezing the garden hose to fill a bucket when the water flow/supply is the same ain't gonna fill the bucket any faster. And by actually squeezing and plugging the end to shoot the water we've created a restriction AKA increase in pressure but same end result.
The stock intercooler is probably the most "optimum" size for the stock application.
Also here is why I think the garden hose analogy is wrong from a previous post.
The goal is to fill the cylinder with air.
So squeezing the garden hose to fill a bucket when the water flow/supply is the same ain't gonna fill the bucket any faster. And by actually squeezing and plugging the end to shoot the water we've created a restriction AKA increase in pressure but same end result.
The stock intercooler is probably the most "optimum" size for the stock application.
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