R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 A/C removal worth it?

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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 10:41 PM
  #1  
l_danner@outlook.com's Avatar
l_danner@outlook.com
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A/C removal worth it?

I have done some work and misplaced the service port for the ac when reassembling. I ended up breaking the port off completely. I’m turning my 03 MCS into more race ready from stock.

a lot of people online say it’s not that big of a gain as far as hp or weight. I’m not going to get it repaired so I might as well remove the condenser and compressor and main lines right?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 04:49 AM
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IQRaceworks
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As long as the A/C isn't engaged (clutch locked up), it's not robbing any power. If you pull off the compressor, are you going to replace it with some other type of idler pully in order to run the belt around it? If it was me, and I wasn't going to use the A/C...and I wasn't going to repair it.....I would just leave it alone, put it all back like it should be, and just drive it.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 05:38 AM
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You can buy an idler pulley/bracket that replaces the A/C compressor -- see attached pic -- and allows you to use the same serpentine belt. Any amount of weight reductions you achieve will make a better race car.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 06:30 AM
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I’m wanting to upgrade the pulley to a 15% and add a tensioner stopand maybe add a lightweight 2% or 0% reduction.

Im going to assume if I decide to remove the main AC components and add an idle pulley it would be best to do it all at the same time? Would this also be a good time for a supercharger oil service?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 09:15 AM
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cooper48
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Makes sense to do it all at once. The 15% pulley will be MUCH easier to install with the supercharger off the car for service.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2019 | 05:20 PM
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Skip the lightweight crank pulley and go with a proper ATI / SFI-approved fluidamper.

If you want to delete the AC, there's another option that bypasses the lower pulley entirely, and that's what I'll be trying on my own car. The belt doesn't have as much surface contact with the blower pulley, so to increase static tension I've installed an Alta-brand manual tensioner arm. This setup utilizes a 6-rib, 843mm length belt, which is TINY compared to the OE belt. Additionally, the AC compressor is removed, there's no idler pulley (the primary issue is that they bearing / pulley itself is garbage, and the upgrade from Orranje is *another* $100), and if you'd like you can also remove the secondary idler pulley entirely, however I chose to keep mine in order to increase tension potential. Reviews online indicated no slippage of the belt (assuming not a race car) without the Alta tensioner, so that should just go further to improve the situation.

Any time is a good time to perform the SC maintenance, if the history is unknown.
 
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