R50/53 Oil Filter Housing Replacement?
#1
09-18-2018, 09:07 AM
Oil Filter Housing Replacement?
2003 R53
Oil pressure light stays on after the car starts for a few seconds while the engine sounds starved for oil... (knocking sound). This just started yesterday.
Based on my research this is probably the black plunger cap thingie inside the oil filter housing.. under the actual oil filter... it's probably cracked or fallen off.. I will remove the oil filter to confirm this weekend.
If this is the diagnosis... Do I need to replace the whole oil filter housing? Or does someone sell parts to fix this?
If I do replace the whole housing, What is the easiest way to get to it? I went through the wheel-well to I replaced the oil cooler.. Will the whole oil filter housing fit through the wheel-well?
Oil pressure light stays on after the car starts for a few seconds while the engine sounds starved for oil... (knocking sound). This just started yesterday.
Based on my research this is probably the black plunger cap thingie inside the oil filter housing.. under the actual oil filter... it's probably cracked or fallen off.. I will remove the oil filter to confirm this weekend.
If this is the diagnosis... Do I need to replace the whole oil filter housing? Or does someone sell parts to fix this?
If I do replace the whole housing, What is the easiest way to get to it? I went through the wheel-well to I replaced the oil cooler.. Will the whole oil filter housing fit through the wheel-well?
#2
09-18-2018, 09:47 AM
I found this Oil Filter Housing Drain Plunger Spring Repair Kit
can this be installed while the Oil Filter housing is on the car? or do I need to remove it?
can this be installed while the Oil Filter housing is on the car? or do I need to remove it?
#3
09-18-2018, 01:54 PM
I found this Oil Filter Housing Drain Plunger Spring Repair Kit can this be installed while the Oil Filter housing is on the car? or do I need to remove it?
As to installation, if the drain-back valve has failed, it is likely broken into pieces, so there could be small fragments which have fallen into the housing passages, so just snapping a new one in may not completely remedy your issue, as those pieces would need to be recovered. If after a visual check you've determined the valve has broken, remove the housing.
It’s tight quarters, but it will fit through the wheel well after it has been broken down to its three separate components (first removing the cap and cooler, then the housing).
Alternately (and perhaps less labor intensive), it can be removed from the underside by removing the p/s fan, lower engine mount and passenger axle, which gives great access and much more room to remove the housing from below.
Of course, however you decide to remove it, always replace all associated gaskets and seals with new OE parts.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 09-18-2018 at 03:15 PM. Reason: clarification
The following users liked this post:
JDM_ (09-19-2018)
#5
09-18-2018, 05:57 PM
3rd Gear
The problem with the Dorman part is that you have to modify the part and reuse the spring due to length of the spring that it comes with. The part being offered by outmotoring is 3D printed and looks to include a new spring. IMO I would get the kit as you get everything you need and can save the spring if the old one is still good.
The following 2 users liked this post by DamnCampers:
JDM_ (09-19-2018),
Mike Honcho (02-22-2020)
#6
09-19-2018, 04:40 PM
The problem with the Dorman part is that you have to modify the part and reuse the spring due to length of the spring that it comes with. The part being offered by outmotoring is 3D printed and looks to include a new spring. IMO I would get the kit as you get everything you need and can save the spring if the old one is still good.
Thanks for all your help.. I'm going to remove the axel/ PS motor/ read mount.. and drop the assembly out the bottom..
Last edited by JDM_; 09-19-2018 at 04:46 PM.
The following users liked this post:
WayMotorWorks (09-20-2018)
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