Hey guys,

The shop that was holding a replacement head for me the last few months sold it...so I have to turn to junkyards and craigslist for a head/motor.

I've been talking to this guy for a little bit, any tips on things to look for? He's going to compression test it and send me photos of the results tonight, but other than that, should I check anything before purchasing it? What's a reasonable offer?

Thanks in advance

 

Have you tried E-bay? They have them and with most of the parts guys they have you can buy a cheap "insurance" warranty.

 

Yessir! Although I'm a college student and I can't really afford $2k on a shipped engine. I'd much rather try my hand at some cheaper secondhand local options first.

Any tips on stuff to look out for/things to check, though? Besides condition of spark plugs, and compression testing, of course. (~130psi is good, right?)

(engine in question)

 

Update: Here are the results of the compression test (spinning crank bolt with wrench). What should I check for in person? What's a good first offer?

 

My tips on buying Craigslist non warranty things you can't test running.

1. Don't *

* unless it is so cheap you feel like playing lotto.

 

The head on my current R53 is cracked, and all I need from that motor is the head. Does that change the recommendation at all? Is there anything that I can do to determine quality? Will a camera in a spark plug tube be useful? Or is there an easy DIY pressure test of some sort?

I'm honestly at the point that I either source an affordable head for my car or sell it entirely...I've been walking around town with no car for 5 months now...I really miss having transportation.

 

If all you are looking at is the head, then you need a leak down. The compression on that engine is not too good, but it depends on the gauge.

 

I'd do a leakdown for sure. Is he willing to sell you just the head? If so, you can pull the head off and visually inspect it. The compression can be misleading since it's entirely dry, but they're all fairly consistent so that's a good sign. Could definitely be a tired engine, but as long as your valves and springs are good then you don't care. It's hard to tell without pulling the head off.

Might also be beneficial to go to WMW and see if they have anything that fits your needs, I hear they stock a couple engines and rebuilt heads. They might be willing to cut you a deal.

 

If you can see the head in person, suggest you stop by a paint store and buy a Paint Guide in tool that is about 24" in length. Modmini has a youtube video where he works on a head. He uses the Guide as a straight edge to tell if the head is warped. The link below is to Home Depot where you can see what I am talking about

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Warner-23...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Thanks for the responses guys! Sorry I didn't log back in sooner, been running around like a headless chicken at work all week.

It's very much removed from the vehicle and has been sitting, so it was cranked by hand with a ratchet for the compression test. Could that contribute to the low readings somehow? Or is this another case of my hopelessly wishful thinking?

No, unfortunately. He bought it as a replacement and no longer has any need for it, so I think he just wants to cash out and get it out of his hair. I was thinking of offering $500 to start, and going up to $800, since the compression was questionable and the motor has been sitting. Is that fair?

He said I could come by and perform a DIY leakdown test before purchasing. What's a good brand leakdown tester, and does anyone know what good leakage rates per cylinder are? I saw a video that said between 10-20% was healthy, but it wasn't a MINI-specific video.

Assuming that this engine passes my leakdown test, what other steps should I take to make super sure this is the last time I replace a head on this motor? I made the mistake of only getting the deck milled the first time around, but not pressure testing/magnaflux'ing, etc. Needless to say, I learned my lesson. I already have an extra set of Fel-Pro valve stem seals (at least I think that's what they're called, the little cap looking thingies with the red tops). I want to make sure I do everything right this time around.

Way has already done a lot for me--added used parts to his website to the website, answered annoying novice questions about my troubles, shipped extra stickers for encouragement, etc. Although I do agree, the WMW rebuilt head is probably my best option if this guy doesn't work out.

Thanks for the tip! I'll pick one up on the way home today. Again guys, thank you so much for your advice!!

 

As far as the compression, it is not really important to you but you can use that as a bargaining tool. It could be the cheap gauge as well. The leak down can be rented for free at autozone but you will need a compressor. Just get the engine as cheap as possible and go from there. Unless you are willing to build up the bottom end for serious power, I'd just port and polish head and do a cam.

 

He's probably not going to find a whole lot of people looking for mini long blocks, so use that as some leverage with your offer, too. I assume there's no s/c attached but I can't see very well. I do see that there's an I/C there, will that be included? I'd bring a light and make sure to look at the cylinders as much as possible. If they look alright then I'd probably roll the dice. You can also pull the valve cover to see general condition of cam/journals/oil residue or sludge. That'll at least give you more information than not doing so.

There's a fresh head in the for sale section for $500... Maybe look at that?

For an extra engine sitting on a tire in a garage with not the greatest compression numbers cold, I'd probably offer maybe $250-300 and see what he says. He probably just wants it out of his garage. You can't do anything with the bottom end anyway unless you're going to build it and swap the whole thing in but I doubt that's in the works from how you're talking.

 

I always pressure test by cranking the engine until the gauge stops/tops out that is going to be a chore doing it by hand. If all the cylinders are at the same pressure regardless how you spin the motor, IMO the chances you have a bad cylinder/head are minimized. Also agree with CSP about pulling the valve cover, if you find some chocolate milkshake/goo it is a pretty good sign of a blown head gasket.

 

Did you buy? What's the haps?

 

Thanks for asking, but I'm hindered by some logistical "European-Father-Syndrome" issues. The jist of it is that I live ~50 miles from my parents' house, where my MINI has been sitting since January. I've been waiting since January for summer to come so I could fix it, but my parents decided this week that they don't want me to work on my car there because driveway. So, before I can make any engine purchases, I need to solve the logistical issue of where I can work on my car.

I spoke yesterday with a storage unit manager near my apartment and she said that she wouldn't mind if I worked on my car inside a unit, but the units don't have power outlets or air conditioning...so I'm currently trying to find an air conditioned, power-outlet-equipped storage unit in my area that I could limp my Mini to. Any other ideas?

I'll return with updates as soon as possible. Thanks for all of your advice, guys.

 

I have an opportunity to go check the engine out today! I'm stopping at AutoZone on the way over to get a leakdown tester. Will post photos if I buy! Finally starting to get the ball rolling. I've walked for long enough.

Anyways, what is a good threshold for leakage? For instance, let's suppose it's 8%. When do I walk away? Would 7% leakage, for example, indicate that the engine doesn't have much life left in it? Also, if all 3 cylinders leak 4%, for example, and one leaks 8%, does that indicate head damage in that cylinder? Or could it indicate bad piston rings, etc? The only thing I need from this motor is the cylinder head, but he won't seperate. I mentioned over the phone yesterday that my max budget is $650-$700, and he said he would do it for $700. Would it be impolite to offer less? I'm a college student and I'm pinching every penny I can for this already.

Here's my current procedure. Any tips?

1. Rent leakdown tester from Autozone
2. Bring piston to TDC, add oil
3. Attach tester, measure leakage. If all below acceptable threshold, continue to step 4.
4. Remove VC, look for milkshake surprises. If no milkshake, continue to step 5.
5. Offer (max $700 depending on results of aforementioned tests)
6. Take to a machine shop, get all the goodies done. pressure test>mill>valve guides>deep cleaning. (I learned my lesson, lol)

 

Why offer any money on a cylinder head that may or may not not be good and still need to get in done?
Looking at re-manufactured heads from $600 and up, that's the route I would go.

 

700 for a W11 is a good deal imo, rarely see them that low

 

As someone who just went through a cracked head, I'd recommend something else. I would contact a vendor on here such as allmagauto and buy used from them. Then take your used head to a machine shop. I was all in for about $550 and I have a warranty on the physical head plus the machine work. Head from a very visible vendor, machine work from someone local. Even a reman head from ebay I'd get inspected before putting it on. It's easy to say you have a warranty, but some random ebay seller has minimal liability.

 

Sometimes you get what you pay for, why is the price so low???

 

Thank you so much for your advice, guys! I ended up not buying.

It tested 14%, 4%, 5%, and 16% leakage for each cylinder, respectively.
Too close for comfort, I'd say. However, I mentioned how much I can get a warrantied head shipped to my door for from AllMag for, and he said he'd match that price. I told him I'd think about it.

I think I'm gonna make a marketplace post right now, and if I can get enough of the engine parts spoken for before I buy, I'll buy it and part it out!

Once again guys, thanks so much. I probably would've bought the engine for $700 anyway yesterday if it wasn't for you guys

 

Did you happen to listen to where the leak was coming from? If you can part out about $300-350 you should be in pretty good shape. Might take a little while, but if you can store some parts for a little while you can probably net out pretty close to $0.

I saw the intercooler with the original pics, does that come with? If it doesn't - try to negotiate getting it. Sounds like he wants the thing gone so it's entirely possible.
But most engine items aren't wear items so it might be somewhat difficult to part.

 

I was listening. However, I was also struggling to find absolute TDC, so it was alternating between supercharger horn/exhaust. It was still pretty hard to tell...either valve cover or supercharger horn. Definitely not dipstick tube or water pump flange. More towards the top.

Yep, everything pictured is included! Check the for sale post out here! If you guys think any of the prices are too steep, or think of anything else worth selling, please let me know! I'm at work so I could only do a quick Ebay check. I'm totally negotiable, just trying to break even and save a few MINIs in the process!