I have a 2003 base model with 101k on it. I've been having issues all Summer and she finally died on me last night and required a tow.

A 6 month background:

About six months ago I began getting the dreaded EP code when driving. Car would continue to drive just fine but cruise control wouldn't work. The first time this code came on around June, I pulled over and googled it and went into a panic attack because I read that it was a transmission emergency code. Car shifted and drove just fine with it though and if I simply pulled over and shut the car off and back on, it would go away.

Of course this became more and more frequent. I spent the first few months thinking it was a tranny issue and asked my dealer to do a flush and fill both to check the fluid level and just for piece of mind. I was told by Mini that the CVT's are sealed and they will not open them. I asked what I was supposed to do if it was low on fluid and that I didn't believe in a 'lifetime' lubricant. They said there was nothing they could do. They won't open one up.

So eventually one day in September I was driving home at night from about 45 miles away and my battery light came on. I got it home no problem and tested the battery. 9 volts. I brought it in the house and load tested it. It was shot. I went and bought a new battery ($193 at Autozone & Advance) and I was good to go..... for about 40 miles. Then my battery light came on again. I forgot to test the alternator. It wasn't charging at all.

So I call a couple of shops and get estimates of $850 and $1200 for alternator replacement. I bought one from Advance for $200 and spent three hours putting it in myself. It actually wasn't that bad. I pulled the nose off the car and move the radiator forward a few inches. I suggest most of you take the time to do it yourself. It looks overwhelming, but it really isn't.

Anyway, so that was early September. Guess what? After replacing both alternator and battery MY EP CODE WENT AWAY COMPLETELY!!!!

..........until 3 weeks ago.

Then it started showing up again. And again, shut off car, code goes away. But over the past 3 weeks it has gotten more and more frequent again. Finally yesterday I'm driving a 60 mile round trip errand, all interstate, and the EP code is on. So no cruise control. I get about 20 miles into the trip and the check engine light comes on (it's never been on before). But the car is still running fine. I decide that when I get home I will stop by the auto parts store and get the code.

So I get to about the 50 mile mark of my trip, 10 miles from home, and I'm doing 70 on the interstate and approaching a very large bridge over an ocean harbor and the car starts to lose speed and sputter. I don't want to get stuck on a busy bridge with no shoulder so I pull over before it. The car os still running but it's acting like it's not getting enough fuel. I shut it off and start it back up. It starts up but sputters. I am able to move the car forward along the shoulder to a safer grassy area and decide to call AAA.

While I'm waiting I start the car a couple more times but it's running rough and sputtering so I shut it off. I try again a few minutes before the tow truck arrives because I'm getting cold (t shirt only, 40 degrees outside) but it won't start. Cranks and cranks but no fire.

Tow truck brings me home and I test the battery. Dead. 10 volts. I put it on the trickle charger for 3 hours and test it again. 12.5 volts. Fully charged. At this point it's midnight so I just bring the charger in the house for the night and don't try to start the car again.

This morning I come out and first thing I do is test the battery again. 12.5 volts. Fully charged. I get in the car and turn it over..... cranks but no fire. So I know it's not the battery. I can't get it started to test my alternator but the lights don't dim on crank and after turning it over for 30+ seconds, the battery is still at 12 volts.

I'm stumped. The car has always fired right up as long as I've owned it. No hesitation. So I can only assume that it's not getting fuel. The fuel pump never made any noise or gave any indication that it was going bad. Plus, the check engine light came on 30+ miles before the car sputtered out so I don't think it's the timing belt. This is the first time my check engine light has ever been on. Unfortunately I can't get it to the store to get a code and I don't own a tester.

I'm thinking maybe clogged fuel filter????

Do these cars have a fuel pressure test valve? I do own one of those but I can't find anything the looks like a schrader valve except for on the AC condenser.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Also, thoughts on my EP code returning after being resolved by new alternator/battery before? I have to assume it was a voltage thing.

Sorry for writing a novel. It's just been an epic adventure with this thing.

 

At about 125k my fuel pump died. Try starting it up again, but turn the key slowly and pause at each position. You should hear the fuel pump prime the fuel rail and hear the fuel pump (it's under the rear passenger seat). If you cannot hear anything at all, your pump is either really quiet or dead. Both my 2005 Cooper S and 2004 Cooper do this and have done that since new.

 

2 Things:

1. Thanks for the tip Thought of a Good One. I did pry up the back seat and listen as I turned the key to each ignition setting. I didn't hear anything at all from under there. I do live on a fairly noisy street though. Lots of traffic. But I'm fairly certain I there wasn't a hum or anything.

2. A buddy stopped by and dropped off a code reader. My code is "P0303 - #3 cylinder". The first google search says this is a generic code for many people and my engine wasn't knocking or running rough when the check engine light first came on. It didn't run rough until 30 miles later when it began to sputter.

And yes, I have a nearly full tank of premium.

 

If you want to check the fuel pressure itself, it's the same as the R53's.
Pull the stem out of the Schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail and connect your line there. (It's a 4an fitting)

 

Why pull the stem out of the Schrader valve? Isn't it the point of a Schrader valve that all you have to do is connect to it and it opens on its own? Thx.

 

No, the line connection won't have a pin to depress the stem like an air hose does.

Edit after reading the post below:
So this would apparently be dependant on the tester, but either way, pulling the stem will insure unencumbered flow.

 

Interesting. I have a borrowed kit from Autozone with which I just tested my FP this morning on my MCS. I posted results on another thread, I think you commented...thank you! The tester did in fact have a depressor for the Schrader valve, and the gage worked fine at first, very responsive and obviously working properly. But after the engine was fully warm and had been running for a while, the gage was no longer responsive and I determined that it seemed the rubber seal in the connection had expanded or swollen, and I think it was sealing in the middle around the Schrader / depressor! Weird.

Also, has anybody ever wondered why Mini didn't bring that test port out from under the intercooler on the MCS? That's just crazy.

Anyway, sorry to hijack. To the OP: according to my manual the test port is on the end of the fuel rail like on my MCS, which should be visible on your base model. This would certainly be a good check to run. You can borrow the tester for free (leave a deposit) from Autozone, O'Reilley, etc.

And what's an EP code?