R50/53 Realistic 0-120 mph times?
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
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In order to do that you need more HP. Was just giving out a path to achieve that. You need roughly 212 or a little more wheel HP to achieve your goal of 250 crank HP. Not saying it's not possible but I have never seen an R53 get those numbers with the standard bolt ons and a tune. Either need a cam or might could do it with a top of the line header. Of course every dyño reads different. On this side of the pond most talk in wheel HP cause unless you have the engine out and on an engine dyno who really knows right... In most instances it will come down to driver if cars are closely matched and in some instances a much less HP car can out run another car in a 60 mph dash because of Tire and HP management. At 100-120 mph unless they spotted you quite a bit they should be able to make it up. Gearing will come into play of course.
Last edited by N2MINI; Oct 31, 2016 at 06:11 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Arnold, MO.
For me personally (and yes I've been ridiculed for this), I'm not that interested in being the overall fastest, I'm interested in seeing what I can do with something that's "not supposed to do that", I would just rather be the oddball out of the group that causes the "what just happened", and "Wow... With That" reaction, than one of the many.
250 BHP, is very doable, even without a head, and besides a LSD, unless your going to actually drag race the car, w/slicks, axels aren't needed, neither would some crazy stiff clutch.
It's once you start aiming for more than 225 WHP, that it starts to get expensive and time consuming, but can still be achieved on a daily driver.
With the Mods you mentioned, you'll be in the running with those others, but only of their stock or mildly modified.
250 BHP, is very doable, even without a head, and besides a LSD, unless your going to actually drag race the car, w/slicks, axels aren't needed, neither would some crazy stiff clutch.
It's once you start aiming for more than 225 WHP, that it starts to get expensive and time consuming, but can still be achieved on a daily driver.
With the Mods you mentioned, you'll be in the running with those others, but only of their stock or mildly modified.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, WA
Wow, i quess i'm starting quite a discussion here, just to clarify some things:
- i'm talking 250 crank hp, i already have quite some parts fitted in the meantime and my next mod will bring me to my goal, no head needed, just a catcam, 550's and a good tune..
(And obviously the right bolt-ons)
- i already have a litre bike, i just drive 95% of my time in the car and i friggin' hate Honda's, because of their torque (or lack of), driving one of those things is really what i don't want.
- a 'murican car like a foxbody is no option, because on this side of the pond, we pay a lot of taxes for cars that create more co2, big block v8's are pretty much out of the question..
- my original question was about times and how they compare to others, not about how i make my car the fastest on the street, because i know it will be a moneypit and just plain stupid.
If i wanted to be the fastest on the street, i'd just pick my bike, no car will ever beat 7 secs to 120 mph...
I was really just wondering if an R53 could keep up with cars like the Golf GTI, Audi S3, Mazdaspeed 3, Focus ST, R32, 130i, Megane RS and pretty much every car around 200-250hp.
I'm interested in experiences ��
- i'm talking 250 crank hp, i already have quite some parts fitted in the meantime and my next mod will bring me to my goal, no head needed, just a catcam, 550's and a good tune..
(And obviously the right bolt-ons)
- i already have a litre bike, i just drive 95% of my time in the car and i friggin' hate Honda's, because of their torque (or lack of), driving one of those things is really what i don't want.
- a 'murican car like a foxbody is no option, because on this side of the pond, we pay a lot of taxes for cars that create more co2, big block v8's are pretty much out of the question..
- my original question was about times and how they compare to others, not about how i make my car the fastest on the street, because i know it will be a moneypit and just plain stupid.
If i wanted to be the fastest on the street, i'd just pick my bike, no car will ever beat 7 secs to 120 mph...
I was really just wondering if an R53 could keep up with cars like the Golf GTI, Audi S3, Mazdaspeed 3, Focus ST, R32, 130i, Megane RS and pretty much every car around 200-250hp.
I'm interested in experiences ��
A mini is built to handle, the blower is there to enhance the whole driving experience through sound and sensation, not necessarily acceleration. There's a reason the mightycarmods guys didn't look at the dyno numbers when they supercharged their JDM original mini, they didn't want that number to potentially taint the overall experience of driving such a rewarding vehicle. The new minis may not come close, but an R53 really is a modern version of a classic mini, so just enjoy it.
For a meaningless reference, in a moderately modded JCW I held neck and neck with a z28 LS1 from 40-90 and then he pulled away about a car length from 90-110. I'm fairly confident it was down to gearing.
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2016
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Yes, i know whp say more than hp, but i want this specific number for a reason:
My previous car was a Volvo and had 270 hp, but since it had a ridiculous drivetrain loss of approx. 20% (still fwd), it got to only 210-215 whp..
With the Mini, i want to get that same number, but since the car is a lot lighter, it will be much quicker.
I already have had quite some parts installed in the meantime: 17%, GP cooler, Janspeed manifold, ITG panel in JCW airbox + deflap and some aftermarket motormounts.
It's a JCW 210, so CAI and catback are quite okay already.
380's leave for a set of 550's and the cat 469 cam will come in together with a custom Bytetronik tune.
JCW head should be a bit better, but looking at the differences with a stock head, i see no real power adders, quess it was a big marketing hype.
I've seen people running close to 220whp with this setup, it pretty much comes down to the health of the engine..
My previous car was a Volvo and had 270 hp, but since it had a ridiculous drivetrain loss of approx. 20% (still fwd), it got to only 210-215 whp..
With the Mini, i want to get that same number, but since the car is a lot lighter, it will be much quicker.
I already have had quite some parts installed in the meantime: 17%, GP cooler, Janspeed manifold, ITG panel in JCW airbox + deflap and some aftermarket motormounts.
It's a JCW 210, so CAI and catback are quite okay already.
380's leave for a set of 550's and the cat 469 cam will come in together with a custom Bytetronik tune.
JCW head should be a bit better, but looking at the differences with a stock head, i see no real power adders, quess it was a big marketing hype.
I've seen people running close to 220whp with this setup, it pretty much comes down to the health of the engine..
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2016
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But why are you even curious? It's a meaningless exercise. Basically all of those cars are going to beat you.
A mini is built to handle, the blower is there to enhance the whole driving experience through sound and sensation, not necessarily acceleration. There's a reason the mightycarmods guys didn't look at the dyno numbers when they supercharged their JDM original mini, they didn't want that number to potentially taint the overall experience of driving such a rewarding vehicle. The new minis may not come close, but an R53 really is a modern version of a classic mini, so just enjoy it.
For a meaningless reference, in a moderately modded JCW I held neck and neck with a z28 LS1 from 40-90 and then he pulled away about a car length from 90-110. I'm fairly confident it was down to gearing.
A mini is built to handle, the blower is there to enhance the whole driving experience through sound and sensation, not necessarily acceleration. There's a reason the mightycarmods guys didn't look at the dyno numbers when they supercharged their JDM original mini, they didn't want that number to potentially taint the overall experience of driving such a rewarding vehicle. The new minis may not come close, but an R53 really is a modern version of a classic mini, so just enjoy it.
For a meaningless reference, in a moderately modded JCW I held neck and neck with a z28 LS1 from 40-90 and then he pulled away about a car length from 90-110. I'm fairly confident it was down to gearing.
And obviously it's not really true what you're saying, since i pulled pretty hard on a Golf 6 GTI DSG, so the others can be done i imagine..
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 348
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perhaps trying the wildest cam and a larger charger, head studs would need some thought. It would likely make more power than you asked. Are you really after a hard launch or rolling already, if rolling you could take it easy on the drive line. I support all mods and never ask why its all crazy to start with, hey why do we make so many different cars?
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, WA
Still, highway pulls are just so meaningless...
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2nd Gear
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It was nowhere close, at the end he was very small in my mirror.
What will you do about putting the power to the ground? I know my mini has no hope of getting any grip if I mash the gas in 1st gear, and usually will spin the crap out of the tires in 2nd also......that's why I've never given much though of drag racing my car.....no matter how much power you have, if you can't put it to the ground it's pretty worthless. Mini's were built to corner...not to drag race 
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
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All about Throttle/Clutch Management at that point. At the drag strip you would need to slip the clutch off the line a ways to get going good with a little wheel spin, when you hit 2nd gear at redline you should not spin too much with your forward momentum..
A near perfect launch would be to leave the line at high RPM, slipping the clutch as you go with "alittle" wheel spin, as the clutch is fully released you grab traction and go. No excessive wheel spin but also no bogging down as clutch is fully released.. Not easy to do but that is why you practice if trying to get your best time etc etc...
A near perfect launch would be to leave the line at high RPM, slipping the clutch as you go with "alittle" wheel spin, as the clutch is fully released you grab traction and go. No excessive wheel spin but also no bogging down as clutch is fully released.. Not easy to do but that is why you practice if trying to get your best time etc etc...
All about Throttle/Clutch Management at that point. At the drag strip you would need to slip the clutch off the line a ways to get going good with a little wheel spin, when you hit 2nd gear at redline you should not spin too much with your forward momentum..
A near perfect launch would be to leave the line at high RPM, slipping the clutch as you go with "alittle" wheel spin, as the clutch is fully released you grab traction and go. No excessive wheel spin but also no bogging down as clutch is fully released.. Not easy to do but that is why you practice if trying to get your best time etc etc...
A near perfect launch would be to leave the line at high RPM, slipping the clutch as you go with "alittle" wheel spin, as the clutch is fully released you grab traction and go. No excessive wheel spin but also no bogging down as clutch is fully released.. Not easy to do but that is why you practice if trying to get your best time etc etc...
Minis aren't drag cars.....trying to make them into one is a waste of money. For the same money it takes to make a 250hp mini, you can get 650+hp out of a chevy LS motor....and put it in a rear wheel drive car that can actually hook up at the drag strip.
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2nd Gear
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The problem though, is that while the guy in the mini is working on slipping the clutch to keep his little front tires from spinning.....the guy in the next lane with the turbo Mustang or LS Camaro is already halfway down the track by the time the guy in the mini hits 2nd gear.
Minis aren't drag cars.....trying to make them into one is a waste of money. For the same money it takes to make a 250hp mini, you can get 650+hp out of a chevy LS motor....and put it in a rear wheel drive car that can actually hook up at the drag strip.
Minis aren't drag cars.....trying to make them into one is a waste of money. For the same money it takes to make a 250hp mini, you can get 650+hp out of a chevy LS motor....and put it in a rear wheel drive car that can actually hook up at the drag strip.
Wheelspin is not my biggest worry, unless it's been raining, obviously..
LS motors are awesome, but like i said not an option over here.
Fuel prices are through the roof and taxes for bigger engines are getting quite serious.
Here in Holland, a smaller engine is getting more and more attractive, as stupid it may sound 😜
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
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The problem though, is that while the guy in the mini is working on slipping the clutch to keep his little front tires from spinning.....the guy in the next lane with the turbo Mustang or LS Camaro is already halfway down the track by the time the guy in the mini hits 2nd gear.
Minis aren't drag cars.....trying to make them into one is a waste of money. For the same money it takes to make a 250hp mini, you can get 650+hp out of a chevy LS motor....and put it in a rear wheel drive car that can actually hook up at the drag strip.
Minis aren't drag cars.....trying to make them into one is a waste of money. For the same money it takes to make a 250hp mini, you can get 650+hp out of a chevy LS motor....and put it in a rear wheel drive car that can actually hook up at the drag strip.
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2016
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Not unless they have traction control. They will have the same problem getting their 650 HP to the ground. Not saying the MINI has a chance but they do to the 60' mark... Hahaha!!!! I think everyone knows the MINI is not a drag car. Some folks figure it is easier to gauge where they stand compared to other cars by 0-60, 0-120, 1/8- 1/4 mile times etc as they would relate regardless of where you are located. No way to compare Auto-x, or track times unless your on the same track etc... The OP is not trying to build a MINI drag car just trying to compare some numbers..
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
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Do you get taxed by displacement or oem rated hp? hasnt anyone ever seen an old school fait abarth 500 race ready, its like a real matchbox car came to life, Also why not a mini traffic light blaster not my thing but if a honda crx srtipped down running alchy on a turbo single cam 1500 engine getting 350hp can be done. hmmm still whats steetable, So what will you try?
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2nd Gear
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We pay tax for the type of fuel and the cars weight, this is something we pay every month, the roadtax.
We pay a tax called 'bpm', this is a percentage depending on the value of the car and it's year.
We pay something called 'slurptax', this is a percentage depending on the cars CO2 emission..
Example: on a young BMW M3 costing 80k, the taxes would be around 30k, so total will be around 110k.
The biggest gain in price would be from year of build and CO2 emission.
Oh and this car would cost around 80 euro every month.
If it was a diesel, it would be around 150 euro every month.
We pay a tax called 'bpm', this is a percentage depending on the value of the car and it's year.
We pay something called 'slurptax', this is a percentage depending on the cars CO2 emission..
Example: on a young BMW M3 costing 80k, the taxes would be around 30k, so total will be around 110k.
The biggest gain in price would be from year of build and CO2 emission.
Oh and this car would cost around 80 euro every month.
If it was a diesel, it would be around 150 euro every month.
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
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Is the co2 updated at inspection or can you mod and pay the same fee? and do you get to pay less as the car depreciates in value.....Hmmm monthly would seem to be a costly system to maintain but ok we all need a job. If my taxes on a new M3 were so high I would want an old car with a bike engine and a turbo
Last edited by Euler-Spiral; Nov 3, 2016 at 09:45 AM.
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2nd Gear
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Electric gives quite some discount, no roadtaxes, no 'bpm and no 'slurptax'.
CO2 emission doesn't change at inspection or with mods, you'll always pay the same fee, no matter how modded the car is.
Older cars tend to be a bit cheaper with taxes, but purely on the bpm (depreciation value), not the slurptax.
CO2 emission doesn't change at inspection or with mods, you'll always pay the same fee, no matter how modded the car is.
Older cars tend to be a bit cheaper with taxes, but purely on the bpm (depreciation value), not the slurptax.
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2nd Gear
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This is how it goes now, when most people drive electric, they'll probably let them pay roadtaxes as well.
The government would miss too much money, if they don't..
In Holland, you pay taxes for EVERYTHING!
The government would miss too much money, if they don't..
In Holland, you pay taxes for EVERYTHING!
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
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So if you wanted to resto mod say old fait 500 or vw bugs into fun short range electric cars would people be interested?
yes in this case an r53 is a great car then with a few mods even nicer, I still like the bit different route of cam and larger charger
Its not taxes its what you get for them,,,,, People here dont think health care then they get sick loose the job and have no further benefits and some want to repeal the safety they have just gotten ahhhhhhh I stop here to avoid all this Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars
yes in this case an r53 is a great car then with a few mods even nicer, I still like the bit different route of cam and larger charger
Its not taxes its what you get for them,,,,, People here dont think health care then they get sick loose the job and have no further benefits and some want to repeal the safety they have just gotten ahhhhhhh I stop here to avoid all this Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars Cars
Last edited by Euler-Spiral; Nov 3, 2016 at 10:44 AM.
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2nd Gear
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Yes, a conversion to electric could work, but then you have to get this registered at the RDW and to recategorize a car like that, will be extremely expensive, you're talking about 1000's of euros...