R50/53 Used block preventative measures?
Used block preventative measures?
Ok, you guys will know more about this than I specifically about this car, so I'll ask for your advice.
I'm replacing a blown block in my R53 with a used long block with only 74k miles on it. My original head will come over to the new block as it has a lot of new components in it and I am rebuilding it now.
I do not plan to have the block rebuilt due to cost and the low mileage. I do plan to replace all seals and gaskets from top to bottom, but I am not going with a ground crank, new caps, and bearings. Can't do the cost right now.
MY QUESTION:
Is there anything this block is notorious for I should prevent while I have it out? Con rod bolts good to stay? Are their oil passages known for getting gummed up? Etc.
I was contemplating cracking open the crank and con rods to at least inspect all of the bearings for excessive wear, but not if that means I need to replace all of the bolts on the bottom end if they are not reusable.
Let em know what you think.
I'm replacing a blown block in my R53 with a used long block with only 74k miles on it. My original head will come over to the new block as it has a lot of new components in it and I am rebuilding it now.
I do not plan to have the block rebuilt due to cost and the low mileage. I do plan to replace all seals and gaskets from top to bottom, but I am not going with a ground crank, new caps, and bearings. Can't do the cost right now.
MY QUESTION:
Is there anything this block is notorious for I should prevent while I have it out? Con rod bolts good to stay? Are their oil passages known for getting gummed up? Etc.
I was contemplating cracking open the crank and con rods to at least inspect all of the bearings for excessive wear, but not if that means I need to replace all of the bolts on the bottom end if they are not reusable.
Let em know what you think.
I think I would be most concerned about the rings. You can remove the Pistons without removing the crank, but you are supposed to replace the bolts on the connecting rods. Assuming it's not fubar, the worst case is you burn oil...
74K miles isn't at the end of its life, but if it's just sitting there in front of you (on a stand?) you might do some of the simple and rather inexpensive things:
crank position sensor O-ring
oil pan gasket
front and rear crank seals
oil filter housing seals
oil pump if you do remove the pan (don't know if this is a fail-item for Minis, but...)
In fact, it's not a bad idea to pull the pan anyway, if for nothing more than to see what it looks like in there: gunked up? Check the rod clearances and crank play? I wouldn't mess with the internals unless there's an obvious problem; those rings are seated in the cylinders and new ones just mean more cylinder work (honing, etc). I know you don't have a lot of time to get it up and running, but just taking an unknown block and shoving it into a car and hoping for the best...? BTDT - didn't end well.
crank position sensor O-ring
oil pan gasket
front and rear crank seals
oil filter housing seals
oil pump if you do remove the pan (don't know if this is a fail-item for Minis, but...)
In fact, it's not a bad idea to pull the pan anyway, if for nothing more than to see what it looks like in there: gunked up? Check the rod clearances and crank play? I wouldn't mess with the internals unless there's an obvious problem; those rings are seated in the cylinders and new ones just mean more cylinder work (honing, etc). I know you don't have a lot of time to get it up and running, but just taking an unknown block and shoving it into a car and hoping for the best...? BTDT - didn't end well.
Oh don't get me wrong, all those parts are already on the way. I was more thinking of avoiding internal rebuild. Crank and rod bearings, new rings, and rod bolts.
I picked up both the bottom and top end rebuild kits from Victor Reinz. Every seal and gasket in the entire block will be replaced.
At 74k miles, I really don't want to mess with bearings, bolts, caps, and rings. Unless I see a problem. I'll clean every passage, nook and cranny, without tearing apart the crank.
I picked up both the bottom and top end rebuild kits from Victor Reinz. Every seal and gasket in the entire block will be replaced.
At 74k miles, I really don't want to mess with bearings, bolts, caps, and rings. Unless I see a problem. I'll clean every passage, nook and cranny, without tearing apart the crank.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fjohn624
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
7
Jul 20, 2016 08:30 PM






