Posted on other section, but it has zero traction, waiting for some feedback to start purchasing stuff.

I currently DD a 2011 R56 MCS with an N18 100% Stock and recently purchase a 2003 R53 to use as a track car with 89k on the engine and 163k on the body. My track car before was 2014 Genesis Coupe 2.0 R-Spec making 308whp and 327wtq, had 3" Turbo back exhaust (no Cats), AEM WMI, SRI, IC Pipe, Synapses DV and a Custom tune. Great Track car, but unfortunately it got totaled by insurance company. I do all the work on my cars myself. Not scared to mod anything if need be, but like to know the total cost before i get into a project.

This R53 Came with/without the following.
missing the heat shield that is by the gas tank where can i get it from.

Engine
Cometic Headgasket (done at 80k)
Ported Head (done at 80k)
Bigger Exhaust Valve 2mm (done at 80k)
Schrick Camshalf (done at 80k)
Alta Intake
Alta Catback Exhaust
Alta Supercharger Pulley 17% (done at 80k)
Alta lightened Crank Pulley 2% (done at 80k)
Megan Racing Headers (wrapped).

Suspension
01. 15" OZ Racing Crono HT With some tire (soon to change to 17")
02. BC Coilover (WAY WAY TOO LOW need to bring up 1.5" or 2")
03. Poly Bushings everywhere (yellow color the person also give me the purple once (for got the brand)
04. Megan rear lower control arm (also gave me the top rear control arm need to put them in)
05. M7 Tower defender
06. Rear Strut Tower Bar
07. New Brake pads (unknown brand F&R)
08. CUT FRONT SWAY BAR First owners had Air Suspension, so they cut the front sway bar. Purchased a used stock sway bar for $40 with bushings in great condition. waiting to see which adjustable end links i will be getting. don't even know how long the stocks are.

Upgrades
01. I would like some suggestion on BBKs, currently looking to get R56/F56 JCW kit or Wilwood. Prefer JCW since i would have options when it comes to pads, but have been hearing they are not great for track use Don't know if the comments are based on experience or just pure speculation (my Gen Coupe Stock Brembo had no problem with the right fluid/pads and TI shims). Will F56 JCW Calipers bolt to R56/R53 with no problems or would it require some modification and what type. I know i may need SSL/Rotor/pads and maybe the brake wear sensors. Also will the brake wear sensor work on this calipers or the F56 brake wear sensor work on an R53 (is the electrical connector the same).
02. Need to replace the stock Intercooler. I have seen two different designed One that looks like stock but bigger and one by M7 (link) that looks like this. The M7 Designed seem more effective to me, since there really isn't any need to Divert anything and the air directly flows thru it. I have been monitoring the intake air temp and it been in the 140f and that is with ambient temp at 45-50f don't want to image how how it would get in the summer.
03. Also thinking of upgrading my radiator to an aluminum one (Mishimoto or something else). Any thoughts. Is this necessary or is this just wasting money. Haven't had the need to do this in a very long time. it feels to me like the stock rads are good enough for racing now a days.
04. Looking for an Oil Catch Can or will be making my own.
05. Looking to put WMI this would be primarily for cooling and to keep the Intake manifold/pistons and valve clean. I would more then likely put a nozzle in each intake running unless someone here tells me this is a bad idea with with some reasoning or i would be over doing it.
06. Where is a good source to get a boost signal from? Want to get 2 gauges AFR and Boost gauge. any suggestion for the gauges.
07. Also where can i get a custom tune. I'm not a fan of the can tunes and how much power is there to be expected. I think i would be good with just making 200whp.
08. Also getting some injector any suggestions. As far as i know the injectors are stock.
09. 17" wheels with taking into account that i will be getting BBKs.

Currently doing maintenance (any other suggestions)
01. Oil/Filter Change (15w40 is what the Bentley manual calls for Correct me if I'm wrong)
02. Transmission Fluid Change (redline MTL)
03. Coolant flush replacement (Zerex G-05 Is what I currently use on my R56)
04. Brake flush (RBF 600)
05. Fuel Filter change (Bosc)
06. Power Steering Fluid change (Pentosin CHF 11S)
07. PVC Valve
08. Brake ware sensor
09. Driver side ABS need replacing (just got all 4)
10. Maybe recharge AC or remove AC completely
Need to TS P2096 and i read so much about this code it made my head hurt lol, but i think it an exhaust leak.

DONE
01. Spark Plug (NGK 4285 BKR7EQUP)
02. Spark Plug Wires (NGK 54058 Spark plugs wire)
03. Ignition Coil (OEM 50013) Came with MSD But 2 terminal was corroded
04. Valve cover gasket/Spark plug Gasket (Cylinder 3 spark plug hole is not sealing, so replacing the hole thing)

 

I can't answer all your questions but...

I don't believe 15W-40 is correct. 5W-30 is what the stock air box has stamped on it as recommended.

Your intake temps do need addressing. With the 17% reduction and 2% crank, you are spinning the charger quite fast. On the track your temps will climb.

Most here will recommend the Mini brand coolant. It's not that much more expensive than anything else and you are sure it's correct.

A big upgrade I don't see is a limited slip differential. Probably one of the best performance upgrades you can make for the track.

 

Thanks for the reply. Which IC type do you recommend?

Is it the BMW coolent you are refering to?

I went by this for the oil. Don't really plan on using the car in cold weather and

 

LSD will be one of my last upgrades which i will do after this clutch needs replacing, as far as I know I'm on borrowed time.

 

I can't comment on the inter cooler. I only went with a 15% pulley and 1 step colder plugs so I wouldn't have to worry about it. Others who have higher performance engines I'm sure will chime in with their experiences.

As far as oil goes, there are quite a few different theories on what is the correct oil to run. My track car runs higher oil temps with 10-40 over 5-30. Theory is that the thicker oil flows through channels slower than thinner oil picking up more heat. I try to use the thickest oil I can while keeping temperatures under 250 degrees. For my BMW, it is 5-30. My wife will do the first HPDE in my Mini and I don't have an oil temp gauge in the car but I don't think temps with her driving will be an issue.

Mini has a special blue coolant that they recommend. I believe it is the same as the BMW brand but I'm not 100% sure. You can find it at pelican parts or ecs tuning websites or at your local dealer for about $25. You only need one gallon.

 

Yah on my GC i always used T6 5w40 and never had a problem. Every only change i use to send a sample to blackstone and always got back a good report. I plan on running this 15w40 and after 1-2k ill send it into blackstone to see how this engine is doing. I also plan on installing the oil accumulator I got for my GC, since I don't have the car and had plans to install this season.

According to the Bently manual at idle oil pressure should be 3.6psi and at 3krpm 25-80psi. I'm trying to read as much as I can about this car.

No one has ever tried to use and oil cooler I know the car has a water oil cooler but add and additional air exchanger?

 

Yes the coolant is here and it gets Mixed 50/50 with distilled water, its a blueish color. Concentrated in these forms.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nt-system.html

 

1.) r56s brakes are fine, since they are metal pistons to my knowkedge, the 2nd gen jcw pistons came with plastic... which is no good. f56 brakes not sure if they fit up. or get a wildwood kit.
2.) stock intercooler is actually a great intercooler, but being a track car I would look into a GP intercooler or the airtec. but I would swap the super charger pulley from a 17 to a 12%. 19% underdrive will make that supercharger make a lot of heat, especially around a track. using the 12% which is the JCW size and the 2% crank will give you 14% and that would be optimal for high rev applications.
3.) I don't think its needed, just get something to check coolant temps
4.) plenty of write ups for this, the r53 doesn't create as much crap for a catch can, over time (50k miles) may only be needed to empty once or twice, but it does keep the intercooler clean
5.) the runner length is very short. and an r53 isn't direct injected. valves are clean. WMI is usually just for octane boost and lower IATs for the r53. and this is usually pumped in SC horn, post IC
6.) Alta has a decent installation guide for a boost gage hookup, it uses a T off the fuel pressure reg. so you don't need to tap a hole on the intake manifold
7.) mynes, RMW, WMW all have custom tunes and can do it remotely
8.) the stock injectors will work so long as you keep the car relatively stock. if you add a cam you may want to move to 380's, if doing head work you want 440 or 550. same with if you go e85 (now reading that you have a ported head and cam you want 440's or 550's, the 440s and 550s need a tune)
9.) enkei rpf1 is a common choice since how light they are, OZ ultra leggeras are also very light. both wheels are under 17 lbs

 

you have a ton of questions there and need to develop a end plan. As you will need to undo some mods then move forward to building it for track use.

for intercooler the GP is the way to go, the direct flow style are actually worse than stock as they heat soak really bad.

Let us know when you want to chat and we'll go over you list and make a good plan.