Hi all - I'm new to Mini's and I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction for oil changes and the impending 80k maintenance. I'm in Eastern WA state and the nearest Mini dealership is in Seattle.

I generally prefer to do the oil change myself, but in your opinion, is it better (read: safer) for this no0b to have a shop do it for me? Since I don't have a Mini dealership, would BMW do it or can I go to something like Meineke? If I do it, aside from the oil and filter, is there any other maintenance I'll want to do at this time?

Side note: I found this cool little drain valve: http://www.oildrainvalve.net/categor...-Vehicles/BMW/. If I decided to get it, would I need the adapter they speak of?

Lastly, the computer is being very helpful and telling me that I need a service done at 80k miles. I found that someone somewhere posted a pic of the maintenance check off for and it looks fairly basic... Oil change, check/replace other fluids, check break pads/rotors, air filter, fuel filter, bushings, suspension, etc. Again, is this something that I should just have a mechanic do and what can I expect to pay for it?

Thanks for the help!

-Chris

 

Just get a Fumoto. www.qwikvalve.com

 

Read the Forum How Tos for your MINI and then decide if you feel comfortable doing the maintenance. Any BMW shop should be able to help you. I use an Independent shop that specializes in BMWs and MINIs. Ask someone from a club near you who they use. You can locate one under the Clubs section to the left. You may even find a member who is willing to show you how to do some of it.

 

Thanks!

I mostly use the mobile version of the forum, which is fairly limited. So I forget about the stuff like the How Tos on here.

 

Yup. Got mine two years ago and I like it.

 

Just did my first oil change on my r53 this past weekend, piece of cake. Not as easy to change the oil filter as my e36 was but still simple.

 

I hate that stupid filter setup. In five years, I've managed to cut the o-ring three times... even when putting more lube than there is in a KY factory. Yet, I work in a Toyota dealer and deal with cartridges filters all day long and you can screw them with little to no lube and they'll never cut/leak.

This year I cheated, I bought a FRAM filter and used their o-ring instead of the oem one.

 

Thanks! That's encouraging to hear.

 

Thanks for the tip - I'll get one of those ordered.

 

I saw in the owner's manual that BMW recommends a specific synthetic oil. I've always used Royal Purple - can I use that or do I need to use the BMW-specified oil?

 

So you haven't had a problem with the Fram filter?

 

Don't buy any quick valves or anything like that. Take a look at no more crawling under the car, no more spilling hot oil all over your arms.

I've had mine for a few months. Just did an oil change on my r53 and it was so simple. Just clamp the hose, pump 40 times, stick the hose down the dipstick tube and unclamp the hose. After 10 mins or so all the oil was extracted. Used it on my Audi s4 and my buddies MB E320 and it worked like a charm.

 

Thanks - that definitely gives me something else to consider.

 

Oem filter with the FRAM o-ring. No way I'd put a FRAM filter in my Mini


I prefer conventionnal method, which allow you to drain pretty much all of the oil. Putting a pan under the car and opening the valve isn't that hard.

 

Believe it or not, I actually got out as much oil as draining it via the topsider as I would from removing the drain plug. And that's fine, it's not for everyone. Knowing that I no longer have to crawl under the car makes it a little more enjoyable for me. Not for everyone, but I figured I'd throw it out there. Heck of a lot better than one of those quick change valves which can leak - and this works for most cars - confirmed for the r53.

 

I never understood why people were so against this method. I don't have a garage so in the winter time I prefer not to crawl around my snow covered driveway in a snowsuit to drain my oil. My buddy has a rock covered driveway where he does his changes, so for some we would benefit from this method. The new pumps are supposed to be very good at getting all the oil out, I'm just too cheap to spend the money on one.

 

I couldn't agree more. I think I picked up my top-sider for $35 (the price fluctuates) and, for me, it was the only option as I wanted something to hold the 9.5qts from my Audi - it was the ONLY option out there with that kind of capacity.

In fact, I had the mini up to full operating temp and it still worked perfectly. The only 'adjustment' I'm going to make to my topsider is adding a ball valve instead of that dumb hose clamp. Using a 5/16" ball valve will enable me to not have to restrict flow to the canister when extracting hot oil. I'm probably going to run over to home depot today to pick one up.

 

For the OP, here's another excellent site for DYI in addition to the excellent stuff on our "How To" list: http://www.pelicanparts.com/Mini/index-SC.htm

 

Doing the oil changes the old fashioned way is pretty easy on the MINI with the toughest part being getting the oil filter housing off if it's been previously gorilla'd on. My one experience with a fumoto valve wasn't great; the one I put on my wife's Acura constantly leaked and never could get it tight enough not to. Know lot's of folks swear by them but that experience spoiled me on them.

The effectiveness of topsiders and the like depend on the engine design. Some allow a pretty thorough drain and some have baffles in the sump that prevent pockets of oil from being drained. It sounds like the MINI engines fall into the first category (haven't tried mine on it). They do make it super easy in that case.

Overall, I've found the MINI pretty easy to work on (For a modern car) with good access and a well thought out design. Caveat being that I haven't had to do anything beyond regular maintenance.

 

I have an R53 and for the first oil change I had an independent shop that specializes in BMWs change the oil. It was $100.
I never could make it to the shop for the second oil change and decided to do it myself. It's super simple. Just make sure that you have the filter wrench, filter and drain plug. I live in a small town and had to settle for an STP filter and use a giant socket to remove the filter.

 

Thanks! That helps out a ton.

 

Thanks for the input - that puts me more at ease knowing it's not a big deal. I've always had American cars up until now and am a bit paranoid and naive about how finicky or not the car is being made by BMW.

 

A tip I learned here or ********************* is to loosen the oil filter housing (maybe a turn) to release the vacuum and allow the oil to drain out of the filter. That way it won't go everywhere when you remove the filter.

 

That and I put a pig mat under the filter housing.

 

Suggest you have a spare oil drain plug handy. Most replace theirs but I have never. Be prepared if the current one is super-tight. Use a 6-point 15 mm socket and ratchet wrench. After removing it, clean it thoroughly and coat the threads with some wheel bearing grease. Install but don't over-torque it. When removing the oil filter housing, it's a tight squeeze to pull it up. Keep it oriented so you don't spill any oil. I use a 1 gallon ZipLock bag to place the old filter in. Make sure you fully bottom the new filter in the housing, install the new o-ring and coat it with fresh oil. When threading on the filter can, use an inspection mirror and flashlight to make sure the filter can is going on parallel to the housing. It's an acquired skill...don't get frustrated.