Raven, please document thoroughly the install!
Also, you planning on just using a relay when the car is on, or you going to relay it to the thermostat?

Fwiw, if you didn't want it to run for 5 mins after the car is off, you can run a wire from the 12v socket into the engine bay to trip the relay, and get your main power from the big wire in the engine bay itself. This way, the pump turns on and off with the car, vs staying on for minutes afterwards, possibly draining the battery.

Id like for it to run five min after the car is off.

These cost only a little more than eBay. The one at HRP (below) is actually a little cheaper than ordering from Davies Craig direct in Australia.

I thought I would share Davies Craig's -Official USA Distributors:

Hoerr Racing Products: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

and

3P Connect USA: http://www.3pwarehouse.com/category-s/1820.htm

I have not looked into this a ton yet, but for those that have swapped out to the electric pump, did you have to change the size of belt your are running? Maybe I am missing something, but it seems with no pulley for the water pump the belt size would be smaller.

Enlighten me!

no change in belt size needed. the w/p is connected to the supercharger, so the belt drives the SC and the SC drives the w/p... extremely stupid design.

I recently looked up PTO that everyone keeps referring to.

If I understand correctly, it has the same meaning as Power Take Off, for example an output shaft on the motor of a tractor may be used to drive/power an implement such as tiller blades or a conveyor belt on a hay bayler.

The back side (opposite the pulley side) of the SC on an R53 has such an output which powers the water pump.

Yes, there's a gear sticking out from the s/c that drives the gear of the water pump. When the s/c seal for that shaft fails, it suck the oil inside and both gears start eating each others.

This guy goes over the PTO and shows you what happens to the gears when they cannibalize themselves.

Exactly, and just as a reference for the newer modders/owners, 99% of the time you hear something said about an "S/C" failure, this is the problem, the S/C internals themselves are pretty stout.

I've been running one for a while in preparation for removing the supercharger for the turbo...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...9/IMAG0061.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...9/IMAG0062.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...9/IMAG0060.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...9/IMG_7061.jpg

I also run the EWP controller for it.

Well my kit just showed up at the UPS HUB but they arent going to deliver it till monday. So Im going to see if I can pick it up today and being the installation.

Turbo R53... Thanks for the photos and info.... do you have the turbo in yet?
How do you like the water pump and what differences have you notices so far between the oem and the electric?

Hopefully you have access to a machine shop or know someone that does. That hose nipple on the low pressure side and the hose adapter to the block are both custom made by me.

Turbo is not in yet, still gathering/planning etc.

I don't really notice any difference in the two. I was having an issue with the temp settings on the controller at first using it without a thermostat, but I think that was because I had a faulty expansion tank cap that wouldn't hold pressure and just p-i-s-s coolant out...so the pump would just empty the tank.
I am going to try without a thermostat again soon to see if I can control it a little better.

Can you provide some information on "the hose nipple on the low pressure side and the hose adapter to the block" that you had made?

Are there other parts that will need to be purchased that do not come in the kit?

Thanks for any additional install advice you can provide.

The hose nipple that I have on the low pressure(inlet) side is to do the job of the one that is on the stock pump.
My part is basically a 1.5" piece of aluminum pipe with a piece of 5/8" tube welded to the side of it. I have it connected to the stock metal heater pipe that runs underneath the thermostat housing.

The hose adapter to the block was fabbed using the stock water pump flange, I just machined a piece of aluminum pipe to fit inside it and it was welded by a very good friend.
The hoses I used are from NAPA. The heater hose is #9812...I can't find my invoice for the pump to block hose right now. I have another good friend that runs the NAPA store, he let me just peruse the radiator hoses until I found one that would work.

Turbo R53- So you actually mounted you pump away from the traditional WP location up by the SC? Oh and did you have any issues priming the new pump or bleeding air from the system after the new pump was installed?

Everyone- The PTO gears on my SC look awesome. I see no wear and there was plenty of oil. The water pump wasn't to bad. It was dripping a tad but Im certain it might have been something else as well. Anyway this gave me an excuse to install the EWP-80 and now I am also going to remove the thermostat as recommended in the instructions. I'm going to be checking to see if it also failed which is possible being the engine overheated. Two other items on the list are the resistor for the low fan and the expansion bottle and cap.

I just dropped some items off at the machine shop but they wont be ready till tomorrow afternoon. Block off plate for the SC and water out let off the engine block for the new wp.:thumbsup:

Yes, I mounted it right above the radiator outlet...this way the inlet to the pump will always have coolant and there's no chance of it sucking air.
I didn't have any issues priming or bleeding. I just made sure the radiator was full and I filled the outlet hose before I clamped it to my block adapter.
If you let it run for a few minutes (with the expansion tank cap off) before starting the car, you should be able to get most if the air out with the two factory bleeders and by letting it escape out through the tank.

Friend of mine has been running one for 4 years in his 04 MCS with no ill effects other than it's running very cold. It was best option for him at the time due to mechanical pump failure.

As far as HP gains from this mod...negligible IMO. It is not your typical mechanical pump running off of a belt.

And last I knew to combat the constant flow issue, he was installing an electronically controlled thermostat from a vendor in Australia.

Turbo R53- Thanks Bro... Im going to mount mine in about the same area. I just got my parts back from the machine shop. Going to the parts store to buy hoses and other items for the install. Debating on using the thermostat or not. I think I might and drill a larger hole then mentioned in the installation instructions like maybe a 7mm rather then the 5mm.

Don't make the hole(s) too big or use too many...I experimented already, the coolant temp sensor is right there and if it doesn't get hot enough your SES light will come on with a code.

I would be very surprised if he DIDNT get a code with that set up.

During the colder months I have one with just the 180* T stat frm M7.

Turbo R53- How do you have your waterpump wiring setup? Also I decided not to install a thermostat at the moment but I did install a 1/2 inch restrictor in hopes that might work. Also did you remove your A/C from your mini?

I am taking photo's as I am going along. Some of my items arent pretty but I will be replacing some of them later this winter when the snow hits and I start driving my land cruiser.

I have mine going through the controller now. I will try to take some pics, it's all hidden so it's hard to see.

Ok now Im trying to get it wired simple so that when I turn on the ignition the pump comes on. I will worry about doing the home cleaning later. I have to be back in Spokane by Monday and back into Boise by Wednesday. Which doesnt give me much time incase something breaks. :razz:

Did you get it wired up?...is it up and running?