New here if im on the wrong section please tell me. Question, 2005 mini, where is the oil filter? I see a large nut shape can passenger side between the firewall and the engine, is that it? And is it easier from the top or the bottom?

 

that's it, it takes a 36mm socket.

You can either buy the MINI wrench or a 36mm socket but be careful cuz as you can see there isn't a lot of room. Too deep a socket and you get the tool jammed up b4 the canister is clear. I bought one that was too long and ended up cutting off almost an inch to get it to work.. Later went to Sears for a Craftsman and had no problem. I go at it from the top.

There's couple of DIY guides posted here from way back. If you can't find it PM me - I have it saved as a pdf.

Suspecting that you've never done a MINI change b4 here's a few things to look out for....MINI being a bit unique IMO...all of these issues are discussed here many times so search can be your friend.

1. "just'a" or an S ... there are minor procedural differences and the canister itself is different material. Justa is easier to break .... and there is a little valve down there that you don't want to knock off or loose....

2. Don't be surprised if you need a breaker bar to get the canister loose - you'll also probably need a wrench to tighten it too .... very uncommon if u are used to spin on filters.

3. Don't pinch the o-ring or cross thread the canister .... easy to do both the first time around.

4. Many can't get the drain plug out the first time' and end up tearing it up b4 they get it out. It isn't really the size they say .... don't believe me, just see if a 1/2 inch doesn't fit tighter then the MM recommended. Use that or a 6 point socket .... bad choice is an inexpensive 12 point socket which can also be mis-sized. I strongly recommend replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto valve at your first change so you never need wrestle with the stock plug again.

5. When you find you can't get a good grip on the canaister to get it off or on, consider a disposable rubber glove.....it gives you grip.

6. When trying to get the canister back on PRESS DOWN HARD while trying to thread and then turn by hand until you feel the o-ring start to fetch up. I find I need to go by wrench from here and just keep checking the gap until the canister meets the housing. It is hard to turn....you don't need it tight, just flush but need the leverage to turn the beast at all....

7. Drain the engine oil then partially loosed the canister to let some air seep in (loosen until it spins easily). This allows the oil in the canister to drain thru the engine. If you don't do this expect to spill a canaister full of oil down the back of the block and onto the lower control arm bushing among other things.

8. There have been bad experiences with some non-oem filters. I use OEM ... all the time for this car. Order a half dozen at a time to save on shipping or drive over to the dealer. If going outside, WIX is a good name in the industry but as I say, I've stuck with OEM. Other sources for OEM are MiniMania.com, MossMini.com and a 'zillion others.

9. And next you'll want to know how to reset the reminder?

10. Lastly, you can still find the Haynes or the Bently for the GEN1 MINI and if you plan to keep one and DIY it is probably a good investment. HAYNES costs much less but Bently is much larger. Depends on how much info you want/need. Many folks poopoo Haynes but it has kept many Mini Classic owners afloat for a very long time.

have fun .. p.m. me if you want that DIY guide

 

If you search on ebay for 36mm socket, you'll find the proper shallow socket that works VERY WELL for this. You can put it on a stubby 3/8" ratchet and it makes the job MUCH easier IMHO.

 

Thanks for the response I got the how to . . . thanks again. Don