R50/53 Dad has his Mini Back
Dad has his Mini Back
After 100,000 miles and teaching two teenagers how to drive and getting them into college, I have my 03 R50 back. Still in nice condition I dumped the very noisy Potenza tires my daughter put on and can now enjoy the mechanical sounds of the engine and the growl of the exhaust when things get serious. A little work to do though. Front suspension gets new bushings and joints. Debating on the clutch. Still some left but clutch pedal is nearing the end of it's travel. I am sure I can get more miles from it but I have the time now to replace. I've lost the thread for replacing the clutch. Would someone link that to this message? Also related, I have no desire to go exotic on clutch and flywheel replacements. Standard OEM type will be fine. Any particular brand I should look for on aftermarket?
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Here’s a how-to for the MCS [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/96588-clutch-flywheel-and-quaife-install-overview.html#post1451152[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] . For the R50, the battery box has to be removed, but there are more similarities than differences. Before going for a full clutch replacement take a look at the clutch slave under the battery box and air box. Pull back the boot to see if it’s leaking, if not, try a clutch slave bleed. A failing clutch will be more likely to slip or pulsate through the pedal. The later model Getrag has different type of slave without a boot and is located at the front of the gearbox like the MCS. I think the fact the OEM clutch has lasted this long and survived two beginner drivers should say it’s good enough; the amazing part is the transmission survived the mileage.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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