R50/53 Factory driving light removal?
Factory driving light removal?
how do you get the brackets off of the bonnet grille? they look to be riveted on.
i want to take them off, but first, id like to figure out why they recently stopped working. is there a fuse for them? they worked find up until about 2 weeks ago..
but im replacing them with the palo uber bar on my bumper with 4 Hella 500s, so i want to remove these and ill sell them for cheap
i want to take them off, but first, id like to figure out why they recently stopped working. is there a fuse for them? they worked find up until about 2 weeks ago..
but im replacing them with the palo uber bar on my bumper with 4 Hella 500s, so i want to remove these and ill sell them for cheap
The factory installation instructions called for pop-rivets to be used to connect the brackets to the hood. If I were going to remove them I'd use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to grind the ends off the rivets.
I installed a few sets of these and am going off memory about the wiring so I hope this is right.
There should be an inline fuse on the power lead for the lights. Again per the factory install instructions this would be a red wire coming out of the under hood fuse box, at the back (it bolted to the main power cable going to the fuse box). Trace this line and there should be an inline fuse.
One other possibility. As you know the driving lights are set up so they will only come on with the high beams. There is a yellow wire that ties into the high beam trigger wire at the connector to the control module on the right side, behind the side kick panel of the pass' compartment. If that wire got dislodged the DL's couldn't come on because they would not sense the high beams being on.
The control module for the DLs should be living just about behind the switch on the lower part of the dash to the left of the wheel - factory location. But I'd think it is unlikely that anything got pulled out there as it is a sealed unit and all conncetions are made at the other end of the wires....
If you go to MiniMania.com you can download a pdf of the factory install instructions which may help the wires issue
I installed a few sets of these and am going off memory about the wiring so I hope this is right.
There should be an inline fuse on the power lead for the lights. Again per the factory install instructions this would be a red wire coming out of the under hood fuse box, at the back (it bolted to the main power cable going to the fuse box). Trace this line and there should be an inline fuse.
One other possibility. As you know the driving lights are set up so they will only come on with the high beams. There is a yellow wire that ties into the high beam trigger wire at the connector to the control module on the right side, behind the side kick panel of the pass' compartment. If that wire got dislodged the DL's couldn't come on because they would not sense the high beams being on.
The control module for the DLs should be living just about behind the switch on the lower part of the dash to the left of the wheel - factory location. But I'd think it is unlikely that anything got pulled out there as it is a sealed unit and all conncetions are made at the other end of the wires....
If you go to MiniMania.com you can download a pdf of the factory install instructions which may help the wires issue
Yep....
Yes, that's how I installed 'em. Stainless hex bolts with nylon self locking nuts. I've got this thing against pop-rivets.
how much do you think they are worth? i think one has a crack thats maybe 1/4" long. given that its just a blown fuse or something as to why they stopped working (thats what im guessing becuase they just stopped out of no where)
Well I wasn't gonna say....but you asked.
Frankly I wouldn't give much
a) are you going to pull the complete relay, wire harness & switch (leaving a hole in the dash)? Cuz this is what makes the factory kit cost so much more than just a simple set of PIAA or Hella's. Cutting the wires off short makes a re-install more complicated (note the factory set up connects to the control box in the pass footwell as I described, and to 2 wires in the back of the radio (don't ask ME why...but that's how they wired it.)
b) You can buy the brackets from multiple sources...so you can get a price for just them.... $47.95 plus shipping at Outmotoring.
So I could buy the brackets for $50 and a set of lights for as little as $50 ... $100 and up gets me brand new stuff.... You could go for $25 for the lights and brackets? Sorry - I'm not an experienced E-Bay'r.
I'm not sure the effort to pull the complete harness is worth the time and possible resale $. If it were me, I'd try to find the problem, fix it and then re-use the existing wiring to the new lights. You'd just pull the power leads out of the hood and run to the new lights location. They are already using a relay so I wouldn't worry about load issues. If you don't want the 'brights only' any more just reroute the HB trigger jumper previously discussed to a 'fused, always hot' .... my choice would be the cig' lighter.
Bring it by.....I'll spend a little time trying to make 'em work....
Frankly I wouldn't give much
a) are you going to pull the complete relay, wire harness & switch (leaving a hole in the dash)? Cuz this is what makes the factory kit cost so much more than just a simple set of PIAA or Hella's. Cutting the wires off short makes a re-install more complicated (note the factory set up connects to the control box in the pass footwell as I described, and to 2 wires in the back of the radio (don't ask ME why...but that's how they wired it.)
b) You can buy the brackets from multiple sources...so you can get a price for just them.... $47.95 plus shipping at Outmotoring.
So I could buy the brackets for $50 and a set of lights for as little as $50 ... $100 and up gets me brand new stuff.... You could go for $25 for the lights and brackets? Sorry - I'm not an experienced E-Bay'r.
I'm not sure the effort to pull the complete harness is worth the time and possible resale $. If it were me, I'd try to find the problem, fix it and then re-use the existing wiring to the new lights. You'd just pull the power leads out of the hood and run to the new lights location. They are already using a relay so I wouldn't worry about load issues. If you don't want the 'brights only' any more just reroute the HB trigger jumper previously discussed to a 'fused, always hot' .... my choice would be the cig' lighter.
Bring it by.....I'll spend a little time trying to make 'em work....
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