R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Torque Wrench help

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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #26  
billie_morini's Avatar
billie_morini
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several comments:
1. do not store the wrench until you zero the setting
2. do not drop the wrench
3. do not use the wrench as breaker bar
 
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #27  
Ancient Mariner's Avatar
Ancient Mariner
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From: Washington. No, the other one.
Originally Posted by billie_morini
several comments:
1. do not store the wrench until you zero the setting
2. do not drop the wrench
3. do not use the wrench as breaker bar
addendum:
4. do not use the wrench as a hammer
5. Never, ever add a piece of pipe to make the wrench longer. Ever.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #28  
Some Guy's Avatar
Some Guy
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From: CT
In the manual for my sears wrench it says that you are only supposed to grip it where the grip is, wouldnt that make taking a block of would to the shaft potentially inaccurate or even bad for the wrench?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 04:38 PM
  #29  
rrcaniglia's Avatar
rrcaniglia
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From: Huntsville, AL
A. M.,

Twelve inches. Got it. At that length lever, the reading is correct.

Thanks.

R
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 04:40 PM
  #30  
rrcaniglia's Avatar
rrcaniglia
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by Some Guy
In the manual for my sears wrench it says that you are only supposed to grip it where the grip is, wouldnt that make taking a block of would to the shaft potentially inaccurate or even bad for the wrench?
After dealing with the calibration folks in the Army for twenty-five years, and after promising my Navy father-in-law that I'd be fair to sailors when I married his daughter, I'm choosing to believe A.M.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 04:58 PM
  #31  
ofioliti's Avatar
ofioliti
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From: Always curious ...
Originally Posted by Some Guy
In the manual for my sears wrench it says that you are only supposed to grip it where the grip is, wouldnt that make taking a block of would to the shaft potentially inaccurate or even bad for the wrench?
Can't say if it's bad for the wrench---that would depend on exactly which wrench it is (its mechanism/construction).

As for accuracy, it shouldn't matter. If you apply the force closer to the point of rotation, you will just need to apply more force, but the torque will be the same (more force but less length; product is the same).
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #32  
Ancient Mariner's Avatar
Ancient Mariner
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From: Washington. No, the other one.
Originally Posted by Some Guy
In the manual for my sears wrench it says that you are only supposed to grip it where the grip is, wouldnt that make taking a block of would to the shaft potentially inaccurate or even bad for the wrench?
Nope, no harm. And the closer the force is applied to the exact 12" point, the more accurate the reading. The Sears (and others) instructions are to insure that you apply the force to the correct point (the knurled part) rather than elsewhere on the handle to insure accuracy.
But, hey folks, it's a torque wrench. The accuracy of the reading changes with many factors: the condition of the threads -dry, oily, rusty, beat up, etc.- probably affects the reading more than anything else. The wrench will 'click' at it's setting, but the holding power of the bolt will not be the same as the next one you do. But it's close enough. No need to overthink it.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #33  
Ancient Mariner's Avatar
Ancient Mariner
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From: Washington. No, the other one.
Originally Posted by ofioliti
Can't say if it's bad for the wrench---that would depend on exactly which wrench it is (its mechanism/construction).

As for accuracy, it shouldn't matter. If you apply the force closer to the point of rotation, you will just need to apply more force, but the torque will be the same (more force but less length; product is the same).
Sort of true, Ofioliti, but the wrenches are designed to operate correctly with force applied at a specific point. The beam/pointer type of torque wrench makes it easy to visualize: The wrench is calibrated for bend along the full length of the beam, going shorter leaves a portion of the beam unbent and the reading will be off. Same with 'click' type, but not as obvious.
Here, everything you ever (or never) wanted to know how they work:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
Edit: The 'dial type' wrenches don't care where you hold them, they're accurate no matter where you put your hand.
 

Last edited by Ancient Mariner; Jun 27, 2008 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:25 PM
  #34  
ofioliti's Avatar
ofioliti
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Always curious ...
Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
Sort of true, Ofioliti, but the wrenches are designed to operate correctly with force applied at a specific point. The beam/pointer type of torque wrench makes it easy to visualize: The wrench is calibrated for bend along the full length of the beam, going shorter leaves a portion of the beam unbent and the reading will be off. Same with 'click' type, but not as obvious.
Here, everything you ever (or never) wanted to know how they work:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
Edit: The 'dial type' wrenches don't care where you hold them, they're accurate no matter where you put your hand.
Ah, you are right. The bending does change things for reading.
 
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