Budget R56 "MINI Boost CD" audio upgrade
Budget R56 "MINI Boost CD" audio upgrade
Hello everyone, I got a 2009 Cooper with S6FCA "Radio Mini Boost CD" option. From what I've read on the forum so far this is the basic system with the following configuration:
Standard System:
4 channels
6 loudspeakers
• 2 mid-range loudspeakers in front, 100 mm [~4 inch]
• 2 bass loudspeakers in front, 150 mm [~6 inch]
• 2 bass loudspeakers in rear, 6 x 9"
Bandwidth: 50 Hz to 14,000 Hz
Max. acoustic pressure 98 dB
Amplifier power: depends on radio,
4 x 15 W (4 Ohm)
Unfortunately the audio quality is way below what I expected so I set out to buy a pretty cheap and shallow subwoofer and enclosure combo: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...unt/TS-SWX2502
Then picked up a cheap amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-2mDU2A...-MRP-F300.html
that I hoped to bridge 2 channels for to power my sub.
Cheap and simple I thought.. Then I realized that I will be removing the entire side panel of the interior trim as I run the power wire to my trunk and heard the rear 6x9's are brutal speakers so while I'm in there why not replace them too? So I found a cheap set of Rockford Fosgate P1692-C: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...etails/p1692c/
So here are the options I was thinking since my Alpine has 4 channels:
1) Connect the RF 6x9's to the factory speaker wires. T-tap the right 6x9 to a RCA line level adapter, run the RCA cable to the amp (channel 1input), bridge the output of channel 1&2, run bridged channel output to Pioneer subwoofer
2) Run the RF 6x9's off of channel 1 and 2 (one channel per speaker) AND run the sub off of channels 3&4 (bridged). My main confusion around this setup is I think I would run Line level adapters for each 6x9 speaker, but then T-tap into one of those pairs of wire to another Line level adapter for the input for my sub? Is there a way I could just replicate the signal of channel 1 or 2 to channel 3&4 (the subwoofer bridged output)?
Will my amp be able to even handle option 2?
I know the amp is probably a bit undersized for the sub but I really don't need any crazy in terms of bass. Just a little boost to the low-end for the bass-deprived and crackling highs the r56 comes with.
Please let me know your thoughts,
Greg
Standard System:
4 channels
6 loudspeakers
• 2 mid-range loudspeakers in front, 100 mm [~4 inch]
• 2 bass loudspeakers in front, 150 mm [~6 inch]
• 2 bass loudspeakers in rear, 6 x 9"
Bandwidth: 50 Hz to 14,000 Hz
Max. acoustic pressure 98 dB
Amplifier power: depends on radio,
4 x 15 W (4 Ohm)
Unfortunately the audio quality is way below what I expected so I set out to buy a pretty cheap and shallow subwoofer and enclosure combo: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...unt/TS-SWX2502
Then picked up a cheap amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-2mDU2A...-MRP-F300.html
that I hoped to bridge 2 channels for to power my sub.
Cheap and simple I thought.. Then I realized that I will be removing the entire side panel of the interior trim as I run the power wire to my trunk and heard the rear 6x9's are brutal speakers so while I'm in there why not replace them too? So I found a cheap set of Rockford Fosgate P1692-C: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...etails/p1692c/
So here are the options I was thinking since my Alpine has 4 channels:
1) Connect the RF 6x9's to the factory speaker wires. T-tap the right 6x9 to a RCA line level adapter, run the RCA cable to the amp (channel 1input), bridge the output of channel 1&2, run bridged channel output to Pioneer subwoofer
2) Run the RF 6x9's off of channel 1 and 2 (one channel per speaker) AND run the sub off of channels 3&4 (bridged). My main confusion around this setup is I think I would run Line level adapters for each 6x9 speaker, but then T-tap into one of those pairs of wire to another Line level adapter for the input for my sub? Is there a way I could just replicate the signal of channel 1 or 2 to channel 3&4 (the subwoofer bridged output)?
Will my amp be able to even handle option 2?
I know the amp is probably a bit undersized for the sub but I really don't need any crazy in terms of bass. Just a little boost to the low-end for the bass-deprived and crackling highs the r56 comes with.
Please let me know your thoughts,
Greg
I have that same subwoofer in the 12 in version and it adds a good amount of bass that these cars need. Your amp will be slightly underpowered, but you'll only be missing about 3dB or so. One thing I will suggest that made the whole system come alive is adding sound deadening. Not only will the bass hit harder, but your ride will be quieter and you can hear the music better. Please budget that into your plan. Which brings me to my next suggestion
Skip the rear speaker "upgrade" unless you want your system to be LOUD. If you thought the highs were crackling before, then imagine that coming from all around you if you replace the rear speakers. Give this a try next time you're in the car; turn up the sound and then fade the system to the rear, you'll notice they don't have much volume as is (that's on purpose) and your sound stage will be messed up by adding the higher frequencies coming from the rear. Also, the way you proposed to t-tap off the rears will not get you a full signal to the speakers, so you'll be missing anything below 70-100Hz. You need to tap off the front speakers for a full signal.
That amp accepts speaker level inputs, so you don't really need an RCA adapter. Just take the left and right front speaker wires and split them into four inputs for the four channels. Bridge channels 3&4 for your sub.
Let me know if you have any questions or need help. Good luck
Skip the rear speaker "upgrade" unless you want your system to be LOUD. If you thought the highs were crackling before, then imagine that coming from all around you if you replace the rear speakers. Give this a try next time you're in the car; turn up the sound and then fade the system to the rear, you'll notice they don't have much volume as is (that's on purpose) and your sound stage will be messed up by adding the higher frequencies coming from the rear. Also, the way you proposed to t-tap off the rears will not get you a full signal to the speakers, so you'll be missing anything below 70-100Hz. You need to tap off the front speakers for a full signal.
That amp accepts speaker level inputs, so you don't really need an RCA adapter. Just take the left and right front speaker wires and split them into four inputs for the four channels. Bridge channels 3&4 for your sub.
Let me know if you have any questions or need help. Good luck
I have that same subwoofer in the 12 in version and it adds a good amount of bass that these cars need. Your amp will be slightly underpowered, but you'll only be missing about 3dB or so. One thing I will suggest that made the whole system come alive is adding sound deadening. Not only will the bass hit harder, but your ride will be quieter and you can hear the music better. Please budget that into your plan. Which brings me to my next suggestion
Skip the rear speaker "upgrade" unless you want your system to be LOUD. If you thought the highs were crackling before, then imagine that coming from all around you if you replace the rear speakers. Give this a try next time you're in the car; turn up the sound and then fade the system to the rear, you'll notice they don't have much volume as is (that's on purpose) and your sound stage will be messed up by adding the higher frequencies coming from the rear. Also, the way you proposed to t-tap off the rears will not get you a full signal to the speakers, so you'll be missing anything below 70-100Hz. You need to tap off the front speakers for a full signal.
That amp accepts speaker level inputs, so you don't really need an RCA adapter. Just take the left and right front speaker wires and split them into four inputs for the four channels. Bridge channels 3&4 for your sub.
Let me know if you have any questions or need help. Good luck
Skip the rear speaker "upgrade" unless you want your system to be LOUD. If you thought the highs were crackling before, then imagine that coming from all around you if you replace the rear speakers. Give this a try next time you're in the car; turn up the sound and then fade the system to the rear, you'll notice they don't have much volume as is (that's on purpose) and your sound stage will be messed up by adding the higher frequencies coming from the rear. Also, the way you proposed to t-tap off the rears will not get you a full signal to the speakers, so you'll be missing anything below 70-100Hz. You need to tap off the front speakers for a full signal.
That amp accepts speaker level inputs, so you don't really need an RCA adapter. Just take the left and right front speaker wires and split them into four inputs for the four channels. Bridge channels 3&4 for your sub.
Let me know if you have any questions or need help. Good luck
At this point I regret even buying the subwoofer because the swap and new 6x9's improved the audio so much already, but I'm going to go ahead and install the amp and sub in the coming days. The amp has speaker-level inputs, but unfortunately I lost the harness a while ago. Any workaround for this? Or know where I can get the appropriate harness? I'd rather not use the RCA adapter if I'm going to lose that much signal.
Thanks,
Greg
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