Has anyone installed aftermarket tweeters in the stock tweeter locations in the doors, as part of a component speaker upgrade, lets say? I understand some modifying is required to get them to fit... How hard were they to install, and what was involved? The wiring part is not an issue for me (I happen to be good at it), but the drilling/hacking at my virgin doors/panels definitely might be! Let's just say, I'm a big fan of "plug-n-play".

I'm looking to upgrade the awful factory (non-HK) speakers in my '05 MCS, and for the doors, I'm trying to decide whether to go with 6-1/2 in. components in front (with separate tweeters, that I'd ONLY be interested in mounting/hiding in the stock locations), or 6-1/2 in. coaxials (tweet's built in), simply leaving the factory tweeters disconnected...

Obviously, it seems the first option is preferable--non-functioning tweeter grills strikes me as "ghetto", but if it's too much trouble to do, the second ("ghetto") option will quickly begin to look much better, as I'm sure there's not THAT much of a difference sound-wise. (In fact, many argue that coaxial tweeter placement is actually better...)

 

6 1/2 in. comps will fit. Just measure the depth you have to work with inside the door, and the mounting depth of the tweeter. Make your speaker rings accordingly, and make sure the speakers will not strike the stock grills at their full excursion in that direction. I think www.crutchfield.com sells the necessary mounting equipment and rings.

Tweeters can fit in the stock locations by dremeling out the stock tweeter grill mesh. BE PATIENT, GO SLOW, TAKE YOUR TIME, YOU ONLY GET ONE SHOT, NO PRESSURE, AND REMEMBER, JUST REMOVE THE MESH PART OF THE TWEETER GRILL ON THE DOOR PANEL! The tweeter should slip in the hole you just butchered from the front. You can then use the provided friction-fit rings to secure them in place from behind the door panel. They will look stock after installation and it's sweet. Just make sure to wire the tweets with quick disconnects in case you need to remove the door panel later.

^^that is what i did.

good luck

 

You're the one who had that really good write-up with the pictures, right? If so, I admire your work. I'm thinking about going Polk "db" all around--that is, db6501 components in the front, and db691 6x9 3-ways in the rear. I know whatever the speaker choice, that I'd be better with an outboard amp, but I really want to keep it simple and inexpensive, so stock head unit power it is. As such, I'm presuming that this is a good speaker choice, with their high sensitivity ratings. What do you think?

I'm also looking at Polk's "MM" series, which have even higher sensitivity, but I dont know how well the stock "Boost" unit (rated for 5-ohms, as I understand) will play with their 3-ohm ratings. Also, they're deeper...a concern for the doors.

I also took a long hard look at the DPSM setup...as something I could wait and save up for, but I was put off by some of the reliability issues I read, and the fact that for $1500, there's still no provision for a subwoofer. I'll admit though, that I do remain very intrigued by this system... I'd LOVE to actually hear one for myself!!

 

I can't remember if I did a write-up for my speakers, but thank you, maybe. Those speakers look fine to me for use with the stock unit. I wouldn't waste your money on the MMs, they're not going to give you any noticeable difference if you're not amping them.

I don't know anything about the DPSM setup though. However, $1500 for upgraded components, rears, and an amp for those sounds like a fair price to me compared to what you could do yourself. Think the MM components, the DB rears, and an amp. Would DPSM be better than that? With a sub/amp setup you're looking at another $1000 or so depending on the quality you want.

I hope that helps.

 

I replaced the tweeters with Alpine components in my wife's '05. It was just like Act 04 said. Careful trimming and they fit right into the housing.