Navigation & Audio Post your setup
Focal's up front on factory amp with JL 250/1 and a JL sub.
Sounds pretty good but still way to much midrange in the front. Factory radio really needs a mid adjustment to go with treble and bass.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...m/cars_114.jpg
Sounds pretty good but still way to much midrange in the front. Factory radio really needs a mid adjustment to go with treble and bass.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...m/cars_114.jpg
Nice setup, it has a good flow to it and I like the plexi cover. The mini logo probably will look better. I use to have an older solo baric sub and it had a nice tight sound to it, probably sounds pretty good in the mini right? Was that custom made or was it a pre-made box for minis?
I visited my areas best car audio installer to get a quote on speaker replacement. I have a 09 S with the stock stereo. Also I am trying to find out if I can add Sirius to the stock head unit and intergrate it so I do not have to do a FM modulate. I was told there might not be a input on the stock head unit. Anyone know anything about this?
replace front speakers with Hertz speakers
Alpine or JL amp
8" JL sub in custom enclosure in side rear
some sort of matt for the doors to help with sound
$1469
Now, if I wanted to replace the 6x9's they said I would need another small 2ch amp and that would bring the price up to $2000 to replace the 6x9's with this amp
replace front speakers with Hertz speakers
Alpine or JL amp
8" JL sub in custom enclosure in side rear
some sort of matt for the doors to help with sound
$1469
Now, if I wanted to replace the 6x9's they said I would need another small 2ch amp and that would bring the price up to $2000 to replace the 6x9's with this amp
I'm no expert, but i'm not sure why they wouldn't just recommend a 4 channel amp that could power all the sets of speakers instead of two separate two channel amps? Both JL and Alpine make 4 channel amps as well as 2 channel amps, i think if you're planning on replacing all of them pay a little more for the 4 channel amps.
I'm no expert, but i'm not sure why they wouldn't just recommend a 4 channel amp that could power all the sets of speakers instead of two separate two channel amps? Both JL and Alpine make 4 channel amps as well as 2 channel amps, i think if you're planning on replacing all of them pay a little more for the 4 channel amps.
There *are* 5 channel amps out there, so if you wanted to save some space (and money?) i think you could get away with one amp only. I'm not sure how they fare compared to using a separate amp for the sub though, maybe someone else has some experience with them. Here's one:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p6395/PDX5...ifier-PDX5.htm
Nice setup, it has a good flow to it and I like the plexi cover. The mini logo probably will look better. I use to have an older solo baric sub and it had a nice tight sound to it, probably sounds pretty good in the mini right? Was that custom made or was it a pre-made box for minis?
Its a custom fiberglass box, and it's actually louder than I need it to be. As far as sound quality to me it sounds great with no rattles, and the dynamat cut down on a lot of road noise too.
Here is a link to the system I installed.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post2807705
I will be upgrading the sub woofer from the Roadster Sound Box to a custom box for the car sometime later this summer.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post2807705
I will be upgrading the sub woofer from the Roadster Sound Box to a custom box for the car sometime later this summer.

I have this mental picture of your MINI going down the road with pieces falling off of it as you drive. 

Diamond Audio 6.5CM in front door and tweeter locations run off factory high-fi with 200mf capacitors on the front mids. Bazooka 8" 200watt sub in back for easy removal. Doesn't sound like I have much but I can turn the radio all the way up with my I-Pod on level 4 and don't get any distortion with lots of volume and great sound quality.
I'd be VERY careful if you're not very familiar with installing car audio systems... It's pretty easy to do something wrong and mess up a car's electrical system... particularly in MINIs. Read up before you do anything!!
oh, i know. i probably won't do it myself. i just wanted the info. and if i think i'm alright with it i may do it.
i was listening to the radio today with the bass all but off and it's not too bad but really want to do a bass unit. i think/thought the bazooka was about as simple as anything?
i was listening to the radio today with the bass all but off and it's not too bad but really want to do a bass unit. i think/thought the bazooka was about as simple as anything?
It really depends... I take it you want to install one of the Bazooka plug-in systems... If you do, you'd need to tap in to the connector (X9931?) and pull out the high level signals into a converter in order to send them to the sub. Then you'd have to connect some RCA cables into the sub and equalize from there. I'd recommend changing out the stock speakers, but that would require a LOT more work (and money). IMHO you never want to run aftermarket speakers directly from the head unit, but some people have had success with it, YMMV.
I'm a VERY picky listener, so I'm working on getting everything in the car just right, but if all you want is bass then you can probably get away with investing a good $200. The nice part about tapping in to that connector is that you don't have to take any of the dash apart.
Recommendations from me would be to take care in wire management and don't skimp on wire/connectors. The dealership is much more willing to work with your mods if you know what you're doing rather than half-assing everything. I know they've covered things they shouldn't have in Elizabeth just because I explained to the mechanic what I was doing and how everything was wired up.
Modding is a risk, but it pays off if done right!
I'm a VERY picky listener, so I'm working on getting everything in the car just right, but if all you want is bass then you can probably get away with investing a good $200. The nice part about tapping in to that connector is that you don't have to take any of the dash apart.
Recommendations from me would be to take care in wire management and don't skimp on wire/connectors. The dealership is much more willing to work with your mods if you know what you're doing rather than half-assing everything. I know they've covered things they shouldn't have in Elizabeth just because I explained to the mechanic what I was doing and how everything was wired up.
Modding is a risk, but it pays off if done right!
yea i'd like the plug in system. if there are others that are similar. i just want something small and compact. i've always been impressed with the bazooka's for that reason.
any other suggestions? i'm all ears...no pun intended. i just want some bass in the car without distortion. i wanna leave the rest stock and leave the bass at "0" and pump it up in the back...is that too much to ask? i'm really, fairly pleased with stock besides the bass response.
i'm not really picky about car audio..too weird of an evironment for me to get caught up. i've got martin logans and a definitive set up at home so i'll enjoy what i really want there.
any other suggestions? i'm all ears...no pun intended. i just want some bass in the car without distortion. i wanna leave the rest stock and leave the bass at "0" and pump it up in the back...is that too much to ask? i'm really, fairly pleased with stock besides the bass response.
i'm not really picky about car audio..too weird of an evironment for me to get caught up. i've got martin logans and a definitive set up at home so i'll enjoy what i really want there.
Oh yeah, and i'm pretty much done with my setup... Click here for more pictures!



Last edited by juchong; Jul 26, 2009 at 04:38 PM.
got a 10 inch competition MA Audio sub 1000 watt wired at 2-ohm powered by a competition MA Audio 1000 watt monoblock amp.
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
you are joking right?

got a 10 inch competition MA Audio sub 1000 watt wired at 2-ohm powered by a competition MA Audio 1000 watt monoblock amp.
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
i wanna see videos of this system to believe it. im an audio/video/security technician and DB drag competitor. i've never seen an MA product perform even near that. it might say 1000watts but it isnt a constant 1000w rms rating at 12-14.4 volts (regular power current with alternator spinning and rpm load) wired at 2 ohms and a 4 gauge power wire. with 3 years of installing under my belt i've never used MA for sound competition, just sound quality. i'm up for getting proven wrong though so lets see a vid. im hoping you make me look like an idiot though.
We have done some extensive work around my demo/daily driver Clubman. Using the Kenwood CarPortal (KOS-V500) and a bunch of other accessories, we're finally getting solid sound from this car.
Imaging is great up front, and the single 12" sub packs more than enough punch. The original flat (sealed) box seen below is up for sale if anyone local is interested. Can be had empty, with a Kenwood XF-1200W or with the current TREO Engineering RSX12.22.
Anyone looking for ideas feel free to let me know. It's great to see others' work here - there are some great builds and smart ideas that address the really sad audio systems in these cars!
[FONT=Arial]http://www.mobileavc.com/gallery/hulkie_sub03.jpg
http://www.mobileavc.com/gallery/TREO_RSX_01.jpg
[/FONT]
Regards,
Imaging is great up front, and the single 12" sub packs more than enough punch. The original flat (sealed) box seen below is up for sale if anyone local is interested. Can be had empty, with a Kenwood XF-1200W or with the current TREO Engineering RSX12.22.
Anyone looking for ideas feel free to let me know. It's great to see others' work here - there are some great builds and smart ideas that address the really sad audio systems in these cars!
[FONT=Arial]http://www.mobileavc.com/gallery/hulkie_sub03.jpg
http://www.mobileavc.com/gallery/TREO_RSX_01.jpg
[/FONT]
Regards,
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0/ppuser/19488
My setup:
I'm running Focal's all around, Alpine PX-5 and a Rockford Fosgate Punch P3L 10' sub. The sub is shallow truck box. I wanted the flexibility of being able to remove it if I needed the extra space. I have a R55 and it fits perfectly under the floor panel in the boot.
I am very pleased with the system, it's perfectly balanced. Even the installer was very impressed with the clarity of the Focals. Amp is under the passenger seat and mounted on a wood panel. Since the floor wasn't level they didn't want to torque the amp. It's screwed in to the floor. Screws have been sealed below. I know a lot have mounted crossovers under the seat as well. My installer wasn't comfortable squeezing them in there because they were worried about the airbag module that is in there. Crossovers are mounted to a custom plate near the stock amp. They tied into the amp vs. the X9331 or the head unit. I still have fading which is nice with kids.
They installed a bass control right next to the USB/AUX in.
The housing was removed and just the **** installed. It's not visible, I just need to reach in the cubby to turn the bass up or down. I'll try to get some pictures posted as I've seen guys install them under their seats. This is a nice alternative.








