Thanks Richard ;-)

Do you have any idea if there are certified installers in WLA?

What's the scenario in which you'd want audio from the parrot only going to one speaker?

Abby

 

Where is WLA??

I found the authorized installer list from
http://www.parrot.com/usa/

or

http://www.parrot.com/usa/wheretobuy#usa

As for the two speaker into one speaker--the idea was that since the audio is powered by the Parrot amp--bypassing the head unit amp--that if you routed the audio to one speaker instead of two, the volume might be louder because you're only driving one speaker instead of two. Some of us are having problems hearing callers while driving--parked is fine, but the road noise over powers the volume for those of us with noisier MINIs, lol.

 

Sorry...WLA is West Los Angeles.

How about the Parrot 6100? I'm thinking that with a bluetooth adapter for the iPod.

Thoughts?

 

Considering that NAM caters to the entire world, WLA could be been intrepreted in a lot of ways, lol. You should update your profile so your location is apparent.

Only the CK3000 and CK3100 can utilize the MultiCAN interface for controlling it through the MFSW. If you plan to utilize the steering controls, you are limited to these options. If it doesn't matter, then you can use any of the Parrot systems.

 

Al & Ed's seems to be an unreliable resource. I have called several locations around my home, and they all seem clueless. When I've mentioned the Iso to Mini cable, the Al & Ed's guys have had no idea what I'm talking about.

I'm also concerned about the fact that Al & Ed's is notorious for not putting everything back together correctly.

I called Haas in Culver City, and they wanted $600(!!) to do the install, which seems ridiculous.

Does anybody have any recommendations for Parrot installation in Los Angeles?

 

I agree on all points. Just hang tight a little longer. My long time friend and electrical wizard, Doug Ioki of Motoring Security is working on a solution for me.

Right now, we're looking at a couple of options.

1.) Force all the Parrot audio out of one speaker instead of both front speakers.

2.) Skip the OEM speakers and use a dedicated low ohm speaker. I like this solution because we can still mute the oem speakers, but route the audio overhead--I'm thinking of mounting it in the OEM alarm sensor in the roof. The high location should improve the audio quality since it's mounted high and away from obstructions.

3.) Last would be to use a small amp that has speaker level inputs and route that to a dedicated speaker. Originally I thought I would use a line out converter, until I discovered that I also needed an amp after that, and during my amp research found some very compact amps that had speaker level inputs eliminating the need for the LOC.

4.) One other thing that I want to test is using a powered mic instead of the standard dynamic mic for better audio quality. I've got a mic that runs off of 12v and I used it for recording audio for my VacuCams.

Note: Yesterday I got stuck on the 57 freeway at Tonner canyon where the big fire was near Diamond Bar. We were traveling at most 5mph when we were moving, and the Parrot audio level was fine. But once we started moving at normal traffic speeds, it was difficult to hear the caller. I still wish I could have it plugged into the headunit--there is plenty of volume on the AUX IN to overcome the ambient noise.

Richard

 

Has anyone found a decent installer in West Los Angeles? So far, the one installer that was highly recommended insisted there was no way the 3100 works with the MSFW. He also insisted I don't need access to the blue box to pair the phone. Made me very nervous so I took my Parrot home. I know Al & Ed's is certified, but they have such a bad reputation for doing things like leaving screws out and drilling when they don't have to. Haas wanted $600 just for the install! Any input would be very much appreciated.

 

Have you purchased your Parrot yet? The 3000 & 3100 won't work with the MFSW unless you get the appropriate adaptor. There are two things at play. You've got the ISO adaptor which allows you to install the Parrot without cutting/splicing wires and you've got the add on controller which allows the MFSW to control the Evo. You don't need access to the blue box to pair the phone--atleast not with my 3000. There is a little remote ****/button controller that you use for pairing.

In my case, the ISO adaptor isn't very helpful as I'm going to have to splice/cut wires in an attempt to do the mods I need to increase the volume.

I think what you're looking for are two different things. Anyone can install the Parrot. Even you can do it. Will take 30 minutes or so to do it. However getting it to work better to increase the loudness is something I have yet to find in ANY installer.

As far as updates go:
1.) I purchased a Profile AP400 amp from Crutchfield. It looked a lot smaller in the pix, lol. The specs said it could take a speaker level output and make it line level. Looking at it, I see what that means is it includes a little adapter with speaker wires on one end, and RCA connectors on the other. The conversion isn't inside the amp. So effectively I could convert the Parrot output to Line Level without the amp and put it into the Aux In of the headunit. However, I probably have to disconnect the MUTE function, lol. Using the Aux in doesn't solve the problem by the way, I'm just trying to find out if I can patch the Parrot audio through the headunit without losing any quality and retain the volume.

2.) I also purchased from Crutchfield a Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter. This was so I could convert the Parrot Speaker level outputs to Line Level without additional amplification. It has little wire clips to insert the speaker wires into. I planned to return the unit I didn't need after my testing--so I'm not suggesting you run out and buy both of these.

Richard

 

Ok I spent 3 hours today pulling apart my Parrot ISO plug and making some headway.

I've discovered that it IS possible to patch the audio from the Parrot into the AUX IN of the headunit for nearly limitless amplification and without distortion. However this still isn't the best solution for me since it requires being in the Aux In mode for answering calls. Everything still works--MFSW controls, etc... the audio is just patched differently.

To achieve this, I isolated the speaker wires from the ISO plugs and removed all of the other wires, noting their pin assignments. I then directly connected these to the existing head unit plug--thereby sharing the existing wiring with the ones that the Parrot uses. Because I was just testing whether my theory would work I didn't bother to make these connections permanent, yet.

In essence, I removed the two large ISO plugs and their associated wiring and set them aside.

I then took one of the Parrot outputs--the Grey and Grey/Black wire and connected this to a Line Output converter which turned the speaker wiring into an RCA jack and turning the high level output to a low level one.

Then I connected this to my Aux In and made some phone calls.

Sure enough the Parrot audio was patched into the Aux In in very high quality with loudness controlled by the head unit ****. Oh yeah, I also had to disconnect the Muting wire from the HU so that the headunit wouldn't be muted when making the call. There were some crackling sounds--but most likely attributed to the fact that none of my wiring is solidly connected at this time.

However this allows me several improvements.

1.) I can get rid of both of those bulky ISO plugs giving me more room behind the headunit, possibly for the Parrot blue control box.

2.) Although this might be overkill, I'm mounting a dedicated Profile amp, possibly under the passenger seat to power a Clarion 3.5" speaker (4ohm) that's to be mounted in the ceiling where the factory alarm motion sensor goes. This speaker fits perfectly into the cavity, so it will be a stealth installation. Although I will likely drill holes into the existing cover to allow sound to penetrate the cover.

3.) I couldn't tell if my Boost radio/CD has the Low Level telephone input like I found in that MINI document--turns out that was for the radio headunit only and the pin outs were very different. I'll still be investigating this.

Pictures coming later to document the progress.

 

Today I installed the speaker in the motion sensor location in the roof. I secured it with a screw and ran the speaker wires along the headliner down to under the passenger seat where my amp will be located.

Since yesterday I confirmed that the loudness of the headunit Aux In offered plenty of volume during my freeway commute to hear callers, and they could hear me as well. The weak point became the clarity of the actual cell phone connection.

So far the potential of the Parrot is coming to light.

I believe with this dedicated amp and speaker (about $70 worth) that I'll finally have what I've been hoping for this whole time--a usable hands free bluetooth phone solution with acceptable audio clarity and loudness.

Pictures coming soon.

Richard

 

Everything pulled out






Clarion speaker mounted in roof


Amp on seat for testing


Under seat for test fit

 

And I would like to say that again today, I used both the volume on my phone, and the volume control through the HU (via MFSW) to make the Parrot louder. Audio guy swears he didn't put anything in to amplify. I don't know *what* is causing it to work that way, but at this point I've triple and quadruple checked it and it works just like I originally thought it did.

 

Actually what you are describing is the normal operation. I think some phones might let the sound be louder than others. My phone volume is maxed out, and the MFSW does control the volume--but it doesn't go high enough to overcome the road noise in my case.

Just to confirm one last time---you used the volume control on the HU (not via MFSW) as well to increase the volume? Or have you always increased the volume through the MFSW?

Because there are quite a few others with the same problem as myself, I don't think this is an isolated problem, however it's too bad that no one can provide any clues as to why we don't have the same experience as others, nor can provide the steps and procedures that I'm having to forge on my own here.


Richard

 

Both.

I'm convinced I just have some voodoo possessed Parrot at this point :lol:

 

Alright you Parrot gurus. I need help.

I'm 8 weeks and 4 trips to the dealer into fixing a problem and I am STILL stuck. I have an '05 S Cabrio with the HK stereo, no CD changer installed. A year ago I installed mikey's parrot system including the MFSW - it's awesome - and then I decided to add the Ipod adapter just this past month. All other issues aside, the dealer said they can't make both work. Is this true? Help!

 

This is probably the wrong thread to ask the question in but you need to make sure they installed the iPod adapter to the connector that Mikey uses not the back of the radio.

I have an AUX adapter and Mikey's set-up in my car.

 

I also have a cabrio with HK, and no CD changer. It is probably true the dealer can not make it work, but that is possibly because he does not have the skill. I have both the Parrot 3000 Evo and a Gateway-100 iPOD adapter installed. Both controlled from the MFSW. I installed both at the same time, so I combined both wiring harnesses into one before installation. Also, I enabled iPOD menu and text display on the HU, something else they said could not be done.

We should probably take this to another thread, so we don't hijack OctaneGuy's thread. PM me if you want to pursue, weebsty.

 

Do you have the HK or non-HK audio?

I have the non-HK audio and my ParrotEVO works just as you've described. I vaguely recall pressing a button on the stereo itself which maxed AUX volume and I've been able to control the volume via MFSW, stereo **** and cellphone as needed.

 

My husband is installing my Parrot 3100 right now, and he's looking for instruction how to use the Parrot clips to attach the Parrot to the car. Any info would be really appreciated.

 

Okay, the Parrot CK 3100 is installed in my '08 cabrio, but now the parking brake light won't go off. Seems there's a short somewhere. Anybody experienced this? Thoughts?

 

I have non-HK.

Richard, do you have HK? I can't remember.

 

Same as you, no HK. For all intents and purposes, our situations are the same--cept mine is an '05--that's what makes it all the more "weirder", lol.

Richard

 

So I totally gave up on the Parrot CK3000..went to using a BlueAnt Z90 bluetooth earpiece for several months, and it's been alright but not great. Also tried a BlueAnt SuperTooth3 which is a fantastic solution..long battery life, easy phone connection, and good microphone and volume control. But still it wasn't the solution for me...OMG, I've spent over $1,000 trying to find a solution that would work. My latest adventure was spending nearly $200 for a wired noise cancelling boom microphone. I have the greatest hope for this solution as it puts the mic exactly where it should be..in front of my mouth, and the noise cancelling hardware was designed for the most extreme noisy environments. I'll let you know in a few days.

http://www.theboom.com/

Richard

 

So, did you ever finish the sound deadening project on your MINI? Did you put the Mat plus the Ensolite product? Also, did you just do the doors, hatch, and over the battery, or did you go all out and took care of the floor and the wheel wells too?

And tell us about the boom, getting the mic closer to you mouth has got to be a significant improvement.

 

I didn't though I should now that I've got the RMW header and replaced my exhaust hanger brackets with solid mounts, lol---I feel like a Kazoo with all the vibration! My shop guys found my unused material and used it for one of their project cars!! I'll have to buy more to continue, lol.

I hate to sound like an infomercial, but theBoom is FINALLY the answer I've been searching for all these years. Total cost was $172. $150 for theBoom, $10 for shipping, $12 for California sales tax. It's so good, I'm thinking about carrying it in my store

During my 50 minute commute home, I spoke to two people I talk to everyday in my MINI and know how hard it is to normally hear me with all the background noise. They had NO idea I was in my car. They said it was like I was in my office or parked with the engine off.

I tested with the windows open, with the AC on full blast, and pushing my RMW MINI hard, and nobody could hear the background noise. And like the advertising states--I whispered sentences despite all the noise and they could hear me perfectly.

What I found annoying was listening to the person I called who didn't have theBoom and I struggled to hear them through all the background noise on their end!! One caller actually said they loved the fact I had theBoom because all they heard was my voice and nothing distracting. If anyone wants to hear what it sounds like...give me a call on my toll free number 866-707-9292 and I'll show you..with the mic and without it in my car, lol.

Highly recommended.

Oh some specs--the earpiece has probably the best and most effective noise cancelling circuitry in it, and no it doesn't need batteries to do its magic. It has two mics for the noise cancelling. One on one end of the boom for picking up surrounding noise and another near the mic for your voice to separate what's spoken versus what's in the background. A lot of noise cancelling ear piece claim they have noise cancelling circuitry built in..both my Jabra and BlueAnt ear pieces claim this, but they are so small, there isn't enough separation between the two mics to be effective. So your sound quality suffers.

Richard