Navigation & Audio AMPLIFIERS...which are the best?
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: San Jose CA
>>>>Two weeks vacation to forget about it - see what they have done when I return.
>>Noise from the HK system? Maybe. I will have to try to listen.
>>I cannot hear any noise on my system no matter what I do. Every system is different.
I didn't have any weird engine noise even before I had my system added to the HKs, as Minihune says every HK system is different.
>>Noise from the HK system? Maybe. I will have to try to listen.
>>I cannot hear any noise on my system no matter what I do. Every system is different.
I didn't have any weird engine noise even before I had my system added to the HKs, as Minihune says every HK system is different.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,433
Likes: 1
From: Gloucester, MA, USA
Just to tidy this thread for now ...
After three weeks away I went to Tweeter today to check out the "improvements".
Engine noise JUST AS BAD; at "normal" listening levels (where you can still talk to passengers) the engine whine is uncomfortably intrusive at 2500-300rpm. At higher volumes you can't hear the whine, except in the gaps between tracks, but I guess it is still there hurting my ears because I get a headache really quick.
Tweeter claim to have tried everything including new HU, amp, wiring, etc, etc, etc. They say nothing helped. They are currently trying to blame the Lojack system suggesting that the noise is coming from it ("was it installed properly or by a cheap installer"
- I don't see how engine rev noise can be emitted by Lojack. A continuous hiss, maybe, but don't believe that Lojack transmits RPM signals ...
Anyway, I have no faith in Tweeter to improve anything ... I have left the car with them to rip everything out that they did and put it all back to HK amp and speakers. What a painful experience.
Advice for others: Go with someone that can prove they already did a system like you want on a MINI.
After three weeks away I went to Tweeter today to check out the "improvements".
Engine noise JUST AS BAD; at "normal" listening levels (where you can still talk to passengers) the engine whine is uncomfortably intrusive at 2500-300rpm. At higher volumes you can't hear the whine, except in the gaps between tracks, but I guess it is still there hurting my ears because I get a headache really quick.
Tweeter claim to have tried everything including new HU, amp, wiring, etc, etc, etc. They say nothing helped. They are currently trying to blame the Lojack system suggesting that the noise is coming from it ("was it installed properly or by a cheap installer"
- I don't see how engine rev noise can be emitted by Lojack. A continuous hiss, maybe, but don't believe that Lojack transmits RPM signals ...Anyway, I have no faith in Tweeter to improve anything ... I have left the car with them to rip everything out that they did and put it all back to HK amp and speakers. What a painful experience.
Advice for others: Go with someone that can prove they already did a system like you want on a MINI.
OVERDRIVE - Racing Champion
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,262
Likes: 72
From: Mililani, Hawaii
>>Just to tidy this thread for now ...
>>
>>After three weeks away I went to Tweeter today to check out the "improvements".
>>Engine noise JUST AS BAD; at "normal" listening levels (where you can still talk to passengers) the engine whine is uncomfortably intrusive at 2500-300rpm. At higher volumes you can't hear the whine, except in the gaps between tracks, but I guess it is still there hurting my ears because I get a headache really quick.
>>
>>Tweeter claim to have tried everything including new HU, amp, wiring, etc, etc, etc. They say nothing helped. They are currently trying to blame the Lojack system suggesting that the noise is coming from it ("was it installed properly or by a cheap installer" - I don't see how engine rev noise can be emitted by Lojack. A continuous hiss, maybe, but don't believe that Lojack transmits RPM signals ...
>>
>>Anyway, I have no faith in Tweeter to improve anything ... I have left the car with them to rip everything out that they did and put it all back to HK amp and speakers. What a painful experience.
Iancull,
I don't know what to say. You me and Pooky13 all started out about the same time with our audio upgrades. I guess I lucked out and got a combination of components that worked ok enough together so that when I got the high pitched whine I could still get it eliminated (took several hours). My installer says certain cars are a real pain in the butt to troubleshoot and sometimes it still doesn't do the trick. You might PM Pooky13 to learn how she did her install and which components she choose. She kept her Head unit and all speakers, added two Zapco amps and a JL Stealthbox and a 1 or half Farad CAP. She had no noise from the first install.
I wonder if changing spark plugs or wires would have done anything good for your noise problem. For me it was the Xenon lights- that power line needed an extra noise filter. Other shielded ground wires helped some. Sometimes AC causes noise. Good Luck. And thanks for the update.
>>Advice for others: Go with someone that can prove they already did a system like you want on a MINI.
>>
>>
>>
>>After three weeks away I went to Tweeter today to check out the "improvements".
>>Engine noise JUST AS BAD; at "normal" listening levels (where you can still talk to passengers) the engine whine is uncomfortably intrusive at 2500-300rpm. At higher volumes you can't hear the whine, except in the gaps between tracks, but I guess it is still there hurting my ears because I get a headache really quick.
>>
>>Tweeter claim to have tried everything including new HU, amp, wiring, etc, etc, etc. They say nothing helped. They are currently trying to blame the Lojack system suggesting that the noise is coming from it ("was it installed properly or by a cheap installer"
- I don't see how engine rev noise can be emitted by Lojack. A continuous hiss, maybe, but don't believe that Lojack transmits RPM signals ...>>
>>Anyway, I have no faith in Tweeter to improve anything ... I have left the car with them to rip everything out that they did and put it all back to HK amp and speakers. What a painful experience.
Iancull,
I don't know what to say. You me and Pooky13 all started out about the same time with our audio upgrades. I guess I lucked out and got a combination of components that worked ok enough together so that when I got the high pitched whine I could still get it eliminated (took several hours). My installer says certain cars are a real pain in the butt to troubleshoot and sometimes it still doesn't do the trick. You might PM Pooky13 to learn how she did her install and which components she choose. She kept her Head unit and all speakers, added two Zapco amps and a JL Stealthbox and a 1 or half Farad CAP. She had no noise from the first install.
I wonder if changing spark plugs or wires would have done anything good for your noise problem. For me it was the Xenon lights- that power line needed an extra noise filter. Other shielded ground wires helped some. Sometimes AC causes noise. Good Luck. And thanks for the update.
>>Advice for others: Go with someone that can prove they already did a system like you want on a MINI.
>>
>>
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: San Jose CA
>>>>Anyway, I have no faith in Tweeter to improve anything ... I have left the car with them to rip everything out that they did and put it all back to HK amp and speakers. What a painful experience.
>>
>>Iancull,
>>I don't know what to say. You me and Pooky13 all started out about the same time with our audio upgrades. I guess I lucked out and got a combination of components that worked ok enough together so that when I got the high pitched whine I could still get it eliminated (took several hours). My installer says certain cars are a real pain in the butt to troubleshoot and sometimes it still doesn't do the trick. You might PM Pooky13 to learn how she did her install and which components she choose. She kept her Head unit and all speakers, added two Zapco amps and a JL Stealthbox and a 1 or half Farad CAP. She had no noise from the first install.
Iancull,
Sorry for the troublesome set up Tweeter did on your MINI. I would like to give you the name and phone number of the guy that planned my system set up. Theo would be more than helpful in suggesting certain digital connectors/adaptors he used in my MINI. I'm not sure if your willing to try again, but perhaps Theo could be of some assistance. PM me if you'd like to get in touch with Theo.
:smile: :smile:
6th Gear
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,433
Likes: 1
From: Gloucester, MA, USA
I have my MINI back :smile:
After having it three days to remove their work and make it "how it was before they started" I got a call today that it was ready for me to pick up. Another one hour drive to Nashua ...
Went through the refund paperwork - they insisted I still pay for the Dynamat install because (I guess) it is hard to remove! I had foolishly hoped they would be better than that ... maybe some sort of freebie to compensate for the hassle, repeated drives, etc, etc.
Anyway, given the keys and out to get the car. I noticed that the installer kept well away.
Got in the car and turned on the stereo. Nothing. No sound at all!
Opened the trunk and found that they had not bothered to reconnect the Harmon Kardon amp - so nothing was driving the speakers! That is NOT what I meant when I asked them to get it back to how it was before they started!
Also, there were still extra cables in the car which they had not removed; they were in the way of getting the HK amp harness but I managed to get it connected and then got sound.
I checked all four speaker locations were working (which they were) and left. Never to return!
Sound is as good as it used to be, and if there is any engine noise it is drowned by the real noise from the engine and supercharger :smile:
Went for a drive tonight with my wife, and noticed a metallic rattle from her side. When I got home I did a quick search and found that the bottom bracket which fastens the seat belt to the floor is loose - I presume they removed it while taking panels off, and failed to properly re-install it!
I am very glad we did not need the seat belts to do any restraining ... that seems like an amazingly careless error by Tweeter. Scary.
What to do next?
1. I could go back to factory HU and HK amp - I would lose the track displays and need to find a way to get the Keg running.
2. I could leave everything as it is - but I will have to find somewhere to properly install the old HU so that the HK amp runs (or figure a way to hack it).
3. I could try again with a new amp install by someone else - but where the problems due to Tweeter, or due to something about my car!?
After having it three days to remove their work and make it "how it was before they started" I got a call today that it was ready for me to pick up. Another one hour drive to Nashua ...
Went through the refund paperwork - they insisted I still pay for the Dynamat install because (I guess) it is hard to remove! I had foolishly hoped they would be better than that ... maybe some sort of freebie to compensate for the hassle, repeated drives, etc, etc.
Anyway, given the keys and out to get the car. I noticed that the installer kept well away.
Got in the car and turned on the stereo. Nothing. No sound at all!
Opened the trunk and found that they had not bothered to reconnect the Harmon Kardon amp - so nothing was driving the speakers! That is NOT what I meant when I asked them to get it back to how it was before they started!
Also, there were still extra cables in the car which they had not removed; they were in the way of getting the HK amp harness but I managed to get it connected and then got sound.
I checked all four speaker locations were working (which they were) and left. Never to return!
Sound is as good as it used to be, and if there is any engine noise it is drowned by the real noise from the engine and supercharger :smile:
Went for a drive tonight with my wife, and noticed a metallic rattle from her side. When I got home I did a quick search and found that the bottom bracket which fastens the seat belt to the floor is loose - I presume they removed it while taking panels off, and failed to properly re-install it!
I am very glad we did not need the seat belts to do any restraining ... that seems like an amazingly careless error by Tweeter. Scary.
What to do next?
1. I could go back to factory HU and HK amp - I would lose the track displays and need to find a way to get the Keg running.
2. I could leave everything as it is - but I will have to find somewhere to properly install the old HU so that the HK amp runs (or figure a way to hack it).
3. I could try again with a new amp install by someone else - but where the problems due to Tweeter, or due to something about my car!?
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Here is what I did with the JL Audio 300/4 amp I put it in. Good quality amp, as I just wanted more quality power without huge bucks !
Alternate Amp Location
Alternate Amp Location
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
AND absolutely NO whine from the HU. I also used some Line Out wire to RCA convertors, as I am still using the stock Alpine HU which is fine for me as I have spent more bucks on performance. Needed to get the Line Out speaker wires converted to RCA for the 4 channel amp inputs
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
IANCULL, as regards the JL Audio inputs, yes it can accept a speaker level input. JUst flick a switch for each pair of channels, and it can accept high or low level input since I am using the factory HU. BUT, I also installed 2 nifty little units made by AudioLink that I found on the internet. These are $30 a piece, and convert the speaker level outputs from any stereo to RCA jacks, and give you complete controlability to balance the channels, as well as control output to the amp. They are called a "PL2 Line Output Converter" and are available from LOGJAM Electronics. Here is the link :
AudioLink PL2 Line Output Convertor
They worked great, so not only can I control the line outputs to the amp, but the amp also lets you control outputs to the speakers. Peeeeeeeeeerfect !
AudioLink PL2 Line Output Convertor
They worked great, so not only can I control the line outputs to the amp, but the amp also lets you control outputs to the speakers. Peeeeeeeeeerfect !
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: Dunedin, FL, USA
Alpine - HANDS DOWN. I've had a 40 x 40 that drives a peak of 109 watts mono pushing an 8" or 10" sub since about 1993. I've gone through 3 subs and the one amp has outlasted them all. I didn't want to put it in the MINI so I gave it to a friend and he's using it to push a set of front 2-ways now. I have other friends with higher wattage Alpines that have been thrashed for years too and they just won't quit!!!
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Best amp altogether? How about McIntosh???
Or maybe even go TUBE?
http://www.tubedriver.com/tdblue.html
That is if $$ is no object and quality is the game.
Or maybe even go TUBE?
http://www.tubedriver.com/tdblue.html
That is if $$ is no object and quality is the game.
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: Naw-folk, VA
>>Interesting thread. Was thinking of installing the amps out of my old T-bird into the mini, 2 Yamaha YPA-1000's along with Audio Control Epicenter and EQ. I know, I know,,, Yamaha does not make car amps anymore, but these are some of the best amps I have ever heard and bought them quite a few years ago. Far underated power wise (listed by continuous power vice peak that is common today). Anyways, looking for a good subwoofer for the small fit in the mini, any links to the JL stealthbox I have seen several comments on. Thanks in advance!
Dude, what kind of T-Bird? I am driving a '96 T-bird V-8... i'll miss it!!
Dude, what kind of T-Bird? I am driving a '96 T-bird V-8... i'll miss it!!
1st Gear
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach, FL. USA
I agree! I'm running Macintosh amplifiers in my Mini and couldn't be
happier. They are in my opinion the one of the very finest car amplifiers made
and are truly worthy of the name Macintosh. The most famous name in American
audio and one of the world's most respected hi-fi manufacturers.
If you're in the market for Mac' amps keep in mind:
The older units (from the early 90s' ) are still considered their finest efforts.
Now that Macintosh Labs has been bought by mid-fi giant Denon/ Marantz
their future is once again uncertain. We can only hope that they're left alone
as they were when under the wing of Clarion.
'just thought you'd like to know,
- Jim
happier. They are in my opinion the one of the very finest car amplifiers made
and are truly worthy of the name Macintosh. The most famous name in American
audio and one of the world's most respected hi-fi manufacturers.
If you're in the market for Mac' amps keep in mind:
The older units (from the early 90s' ) are still considered their finest efforts.
Now that Macintosh Labs has been bought by mid-fi giant Denon/ Marantz
their future is once again uncertain. We can only hope that they're left alone
as they were when under the wing of Clarion.
'just thought you'd like to know,
- Jim
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
>>Best amp altogether? How about McIntosh???
>>
>>
it sound amaizing for Jazz and Classical.....
TubeDriver will Cost you around 1100 us$ if you can get one..... the amp is very rare
so here is the list of the ratings (i've listen to all of these):
TubeDriver ***** $$$$
BRAX ***** $$$$
McIntosh ****1/2 $$$$
Zapco **** $$
Helix **** $$
Eclipse ***1/2 $
Nakamichi *** $
hope this would help....
daniel-
>>
>>
it sound amaizing for Jazz and Classical.....
TubeDriver will Cost you around 1100 us$ if you can get one..... the amp is very rare
so here is the list of the ratings (i've listen to all of these):
TubeDriver ***** $$$$
BRAX ***** $$$$
McIntosh ****1/2 $$$$
Zapco **** $$
Helix **** $$
Eclipse ***1/2 $
Nakamichi *** $
hope this would help....
daniel-