MTH - member to member support
#281
05-04-2005, 04:02 PM
Originally Posted by minimonkey
So is the octane rating something I should have noted in the vehicle mods box - when I uploaded the files to him?
#283
05-05-2005, 08:07 PM
OK after farting around with this for the last 30 min, here's some tips on uploading the file.
Start your computer, THEN insert your cable, THEN start cartune, THEN plug your cable into the car, THEN turn the key to position 2, THEN do the car ID and upload. Any other order is screwy, at least on mine.
I reset the learing parameters, I'll hammer it on the way to work and see how it feels on the way home.
Start your computer, THEN insert your cable, THEN start cartune, THEN plug your cable into the car, THEN turn the key to position 2, THEN do the car ID and upload. Any other order is screwy, at least on mine.
I reset the learing parameters, I'll hammer it on the way to work and see how it feels on the way home.
#284
05-05-2005, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Thanks for that upload info. I am waiting for mine to get returned from Franz. I am looking forward to hearing your comments after driving it. Good luck!
#285
05-06-2005, 03:36 AM
MTH Dyno Feedback time...
I've had the MTH maps on my '04 JCW 210 for a number of months now and have recently used a dyno to evaluate performance; unfortunately I do not have any before & after data.
Just after the dyno session, I replaced the original MINI maps (V39.x w/JCW 210). I have been running on the original mapping for about a month now.
The Difference
The original JCW maps made the MCS quite strong in the 4000 to 6000 rpm range. The torque was strong, and very, very linear. As with the original MCS engine spec, the best performance was achieved by keeping the rps high.
Loading the MTH maps changed the character of the torque curve. The major difference is that it felt like MTH shifted the beginning of significant torque down the rpm band. I'd say that I felt that the magic number here would have been about 3200 rpm.
However, looking at the dyno graph, I see a significant building of torque beginning at about 2600 and peaking at 161 ft-lbs at about 4000 rpm, then leveling-off until about 4300 rpm. Then there is an interesting ~10 ft-lb "dip" in the torque curve at 4300 that gradually climbs back to the 157 ft-lb level at about 5100 rpm. Another dip begins at 5300 rpm to about 148 ft-lbs then remains level until just over 7000 rpm.
The Dips and the UNIchip
The dips are interesting and not what one might want to see in a finely tuned torque curve. Ideally, you would have a nice, steady arcing curve depicting near-maximum torque delivered over a wide rpm range. Can this be done on an MCS?
YES! The dyno session I attended was one of Randy Webb's Pulley Parties held at Yarrow MotorSport in RI. Evidently, Randy had spent some working on UNIchip mappings for an '04 or '05 MCS. Yarrow called-up the HP/Torque traces for this tuning and showed me what had been done. It was a classic, finely tuned torque curve; impressive to say the least!
Now I am not suggesting that a sub-$100 mapping file should produce results like a $800+ UNIchip/custom tuning effort would. In fact, I think that there is great value in the MTH product for those of us that don't compete on the track and just want to improve the "feel" of our cars.
The Air/Fuel Ratio
The dyno also showed some interesting behavior with the air/fuel ratio. In talking to Randy at Webb Motorsports and Ryan at Detroit Tuned, I have discovered that the optimum A/F ratio for performance in the MCS is about 11.5-12.0:1. Keeping this ratio as a constant across the RPM band will, theoretically, produce the best performance. Back to my dyno graph.
For two of the dyno pulls, an exhaust "sniffer" was used to plot my air/fuel ratio. The A/F ratio started at about 12.6:1 at 1700 rpm. There was a precipitous change between 1700 rpm and about 3600 rpm where the A/F ratio dropped to just under 10:1. At that level, the ECU went into "fuel dump" mode until 7000 rpm and a thin, gray puff of exhaust gas was seen.
This was contrasted with the A/F plot from a stock '04 MCS. The A/F ratio started at about the same point as mine. But the stock plot remained fairly level at about 12.6:1 until 2800 rpm. At that point, a very gradual drop in the ratio was seen between 2800 rpm to an A/F ratio of 10.8:1 at 6000 rpm. The stock ECU never went into fuel dump mode.
Evidently, it is not uncommon for the MINI folks to code the JCW A/F maps to hit fuel dump mode. So I belive this is a function of the JCW code rather than an influence of the MTH maps.
It should be noted that this fuel dump situation can be corrected to gain more low end torque and increase fuel efficiency, but requires a customizable product like the UNIchip for best results.
The Bottom Line
Well, I've decided to go with a UNIchip because I really want to carefuly tune my JCW for optimum performance. I know it's expensive, but I've been collecting discarded aluminum containers by the roadside for the last 15 years and I can't think of anything else to spend that money on!
However, I will be restoring my MTH maps to my MCS as soon as I can because I love the feeling of the shifted torque curve; for me it is more useful in everday driving. And for less than $100, I can't see why I'd want to be without it!
FWIW,
Theo
Just after the dyno session, I replaced the original MINI maps (V39.x w/JCW 210). I have been running on the original mapping for about a month now.
The Difference
The original JCW maps made the MCS quite strong in the 4000 to 6000 rpm range. The torque was strong, and very, very linear. As with the original MCS engine spec, the best performance was achieved by keeping the rps high.
Loading the MTH maps changed the character of the torque curve. The major difference is that it felt like MTH shifted the beginning of significant torque down the rpm band. I'd say that I felt that the magic number here would have been about 3200 rpm.
However, looking at the dyno graph, I see a significant building of torque beginning at about 2600 and peaking at 161 ft-lbs at about 4000 rpm, then leveling-off until about 4300 rpm. Then there is an interesting ~10 ft-lb "dip" in the torque curve at 4300 that gradually climbs back to the 157 ft-lb level at about 5100 rpm. Another dip begins at 5300 rpm to about 148 ft-lbs then remains level until just over 7000 rpm.
The Dips and the UNIchip
The dips are interesting and not what one might want to see in a finely tuned torque curve. Ideally, you would have a nice, steady arcing curve depicting near-maximum torque delivered over a wide rpm range. Can this be done on an MCS?
YES! The dyno session I attended was one of Randy Webb's Pulley Parties held at Yarrow MotorSport in RI. Evidently, Randy had spent some working on UNIchip mappings for an '04 or '05 MCS. Yarrow called-up the HP/Torque traces for this tuning and showed me what had been done. It was a classic, finely tuned torque curve; impressive to say the least!
Now I am not suggesting that a sub-$100 mapping file should produce results like a $800+ UNIchip/custom tuning effort would. In fact, I think that there is great value in the MTH product for those of us that don't compete on the track and just want to improve the "feel" of our cars.
The Air/Fuel Ratio
The dyno also showed some interesting behavior with the air/fuel ratio. In talking to Randy at Webb Motorsports and Ryan at Detroit Tuned, I have discovered that the optimum A/F ratio for performance in the MCS is about 11.5-12.0:1. Keeping this ratio as a constant across the RPM band will, theoretically, produce the best performance. Back to my dyno graph.
For two of the dyno pulls, an exhaust "sniffer" was used to plot my air/fuel ratio. The A/F ratio started at about 12.6:1 at 1700 rpm. There was a precipitous change between 1700 rpm and about 3600 rpm where the A/F ratio dropped to just under 10:1. At that level, the ECU went into "fuel dump" mode until 7000 rpm and a thin, gray puff of exhaust gas was seen.
This was contrasted with the A/F plot from a stock '04 MCS. The A/F ratio started at about the same point as mine. But the stock plot remained fairly level at about 12.6:1 until 2800 rpm. At that point, a very gradual drop in the ratio was seen between 2800 rpm to an A/F ratio of 10.8:1 at 6000 rpm. The stock ECU never went into fuel dump mode.
Evidently, it is not uncommon for the MINI folks to code the JCW A/F maps to hit fuel dump mode. So I belive this is a function of the JCW code rather than an influence of the MTH maps.
It should be noted that this fuel dump situation can be corrected to gain more low end torque and increase fuel efficiency, but requires a customizable product like the UNIchip for best results.
The Bottom Line
Well, I've decided to go with a UNIchip because I really want to carefuly tune my JCW for optimum performance. I know it's expensive, but I've been collecting discarded aluminum containers by the roadside for the last 15 years and I can't think of anything else to spend that money on!
However, I will be restoring my MTH maps to my MCS as soon as I can because I love the feeling of the shifted torque curve; for me it is more useful in everday driving. And for less than $100, I can't see why I'd want to be without it!
FWIW,
Theo
#286
05-06-2005, 05:49 AM
OMG I just had a nice huge response posted, and my browser loaded a new page - and lost it :( I hate that! OK, trying to remember it all...
First, the above poster is spot on. I just want to clear up some inaccurate postings and descriptions I have read. Like most accounts of the 15% pulley differences, most postings regarding the MTH are not accurate.
First, it is not smoother. I had asked several times and places for people's definition of 'smooth', and received none. I think what they were trying to describe is the change in the torque band.
Two things have happened that are very noticeable. The overall torque has increased - it feels more linear and flat as noted above. The most important change though is the change in torque band position. The torque that is availble stock at 3000, is now available from idle. The driveability is very different. I would estimate .1-.2 seconds 0-60 have been shaved off at the most. However having what feels like at least 2x the torque from idle - 3000 RPM available makes the driving technique and pleasure very much changed for the better!
When shifting before redline, or anytime your next gear change drops it below 3000, the car pulls much easier with the additional torque. It allows you to shift sooner, or skip more gears.
I notice a slight improvement in the upper RPMs, but nothing as dramatic as down below. The redline has increased 200.
Traction control is NOT less sensative as I've seen reported. What IS changed, is the way the engine responds to TC going off. Stock, the engine would pull power and limit throttle position just like someone was holding your foot back. If you had a slip, the engine would stay at a lower RPM until you lifted and reapplied, or traction was regained - this took seconds to happen, and the car felt as if it was just low on power. It was very smooth and instant, just slower.
With MTH, the TC trips in all the same spots as stock, and it happens just as easily. However, the throttle is not nearly as limited, nor is power pulled in the same way or amount. The wheels are allowed to slip, and you can feel it pull power in quick jerks, but this can continue all the way to redline if you do not lift. The car does accellerate faster in truely limited slip conditions, however on ice or other no-traction conditions, this means you will need to vary the throttle manually to help - as most other cars do with traction control. So while yes it helps performance on dry or limited slip conditions, it does greatly reduce the effectiveness of the TC system. However it is still as good as any other I have ever driven. In stock form, it was much more aggreesive than any I had driven. I prefer it in the current form, allowing me to have some control and more potential.
First, the above poster is spot on. I just want to clear up some inaccurate postings and descriptions I have read. Like most accounts of the 15% pulley differences, most postings regarding the MTH are not accurate.
First, it is not smoother. I had asked several times and places for people's definition of 'smooth', and received none. I think what they were trying to describe is the change in the torque band.
Two things have happened that are very noticeable. The overall torque has increased - it feels more linear and flat as noted above. The most important change though is the change in torque band position. The torque that is availble stock at 3000, is now available from idle. The driveability is very different. I would estimate .1-.2 seconds 0-60 have been shaved off at the most. However having what feels like at least 2x the torque from idle - 3000 RPM available makes the driving technique and pleasure very much changed for the better!
When shifting before redline, or anytime your next gear change drops it below 3000, the car pulls much easier with the additional torque. It allows you to shift sooner, or skip more gears.
I notice a slight improvement in the upper RPMs, but nothing as dramatic as down below. The redline has increased 200.
Traction control is NOT less sensative as I've seen reported. What IS changed, is the way the engine responds to TC going off. Stock, the engine would pull power and limit throttle position just like someone was holding your foot back. If you had a slip, the engine would stay at a lower RPM until you lifted and reapplied, or traction was regained - this took seconds to happen, and the car felt as if it was just low on power. It was very smooth and instant, just slower.
With MTH, the TC trips in all the same spots as stock, and it happens just as easily. However, the throttle is not nearly as limited, nor is power pulled in the same way or amount. The wheels are allowed to slip, and you can feel it pull power in quick jerks, but this can continue all the way to redline if you do not lift. The car does accellerate faster in truely limited slip conditions, however on ice or other no-traction conditions, this means you will need to vary the throttle manually to help - as most other cars do with traction control. So while yes it helps performance on dry or limited slip conditions, it does greatly reduce the effectiveness of the TC system. However it is still as good as any other I have ever driven. In stock form, it was much more aggreesive than any I had driven. I prefer it in the current form, allowing me to have some control and more potential.
#287
05-06-2005, 05:51 AM
Oh, another tip for using the cable. I have 4 USB ports on my laptop, however only one of them works correctly with the cable. All 4 will recognize it, however only one will assign a serial port to it. I happen to plug into the correct port the first time, but used a different one to begin my upload session. After trying them all I discovered this.
#288
05-07-2005, 11:44 AM
koopah,
Are you using the new "hot" map? My old mth was similar to your description, noticeable torque increase at mid range. Although the top end pulled better than stock, it felt like it was working hard to get to redline. The newest mth seems to have lost that mid range thump, but from 4-7200 rpm it pulls fast and very smooth. By smooth I mean literally smooth, the engine doesn't pulse or feel like it is working hard. And the missing midrange may have more to do with the way franz set up the throttle ratio, it stays at 30% until you floor it. The old file was very "snappy" in contrast, but still better than stock. So there may not be an actual loss of power, just feel.
The ASC now actually allows for some wheels spin, which really suprised me at first.
As for air fuel ratios, franz told me he prefers to keep them rich for safety, but he did send me a file marked "lean" ( I haven't tried it yet). My dyno runs showed really good air/fuel until about 5400rpm until 6400rpm. I was able to data log temps during the runs and they affect the ratio directly.
Dyno numbers, the old mth
I was suprised to hear that my car made the most power at a recent dyno day. Mine was the only one that had mth. I don't know what everyone else had that day, but one car had pulley. intake, exhaust ( like my set up), but with a header, big intercooler and the unichip.
I am posting this NOT to defend mth, but to let people know that claims of lost power, bad air/fuel, or dips in the power band might have more to do with how the car was dyno'd rather than poor mapping.
I will dyno the new maps soon and post the results.
Are you using the new "hot" map? My old mth was similar to your description, noticeable torque increase at mid range. Although the top end pulled better than stock, it felt like it was working hard to get to redline. The newest mth seems to have lost that mid range thump, but from 4-7200 rpm it pulls fast and very smooth. By smooth I mean literally smooth, the engine doesn't pulse or feel like it is working hard. And the missing midrange may have more to do with the way franz set up the throttle ratio, it stays at 30% until you floor it. The old file was very "snappy" in contrast, but still better than stock. So there may not be an actual loss of power, just feel.
The ASC now actually allows for some wheels spin, which really suprised me at first.
As for air fuel ratios, franz told me he prefers to keep them rich for safety, but he did send me a file marked "lean" ( I haven't tried it yet). My dyno runs showed really good air/fuel until about 5400rpm until 6400rpm. I was able to data log temps during the runs and they affect the ratio directly.
Dyno numbers, the old mth
I was suprised to hear that my car made the most power at a recent dyno day. Mine was the only one that had mth. I don't know what everyone else had that day, but one car had pulley. intake, exhaust ( like my set up), but with a header, big intercooler and the unichip.
I am posting this NOT to defend mth, but to let people know that claims of lost power, bad air/fuel, or dips in the power band might have more to do with how the car was dyno'd rather than poor mapping.
I will dyno the new maps soon and post the results.
#289
05-07-2005, 11:49 AM
Well since my file was just delivered, yes I would assume it is the latest from him. I have no lag in power, the engine does not feel like it strugles at any RPM, nor has it done so from stock. It has never pulsed or run out of power. It's exactly as smooth as stock, and after each mod the power has only increased, and the RPM climb has quickened.
#292
05-07-2005, 04:57 PM
Originally Posted by 002
koopah,
Are you using the new "hot" map? ...{snip}
Are you using the new "hot" map? ...{snip}
Should I just ask Franz for the "Hot Map"? With fries?
Thanks,
Theo
#294
05-09-2005, 07:32 AM
4th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Miami, FL
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I got my files from Franz yesterday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Finally!
After about 5 days of waiting (I was going crazy) I got the files and I loaded them the minute I got the email.
Wow! I don’t think you can get anything that will give you as much as an improvement for $75...
Here is what I feel different...
1. Gear shifting... big difference it works smooth now.
2. Torque... now I got more torque at low RPM that ever! I can feel the gain since about 1500 RPM
3. My redline is been decrease about 100 RPM my rev limiter kicks in about 6900 RPM now... (I got the 19% pulley I guess this is to be safe, but trust me it does need to go any higher at about 5k RPM the car is going insane!)
4. My DSC is a lot loser now! It actually lets me spin a little. (I always have it off… but in case I forget one day to disable it)
5. Power gain over the entire RPM range! Specially from 3500 to 6000 RPM.
6. I don’t have a top speed limit!
7. And most important! I super happy with the results....
I can’t believe I didn’t do this any sooner!
Carlos
After about 5 days of waiting (I was going crazy) I got the files and I loaded them the minute I got the email.
Wow! I don’t think you can get anything that will give you as much as an improvement for $75...
Here is what I feel different...
1. Gear shifting... big difference it works smooth now.
2. Torque... now I got more torque at low RPM that ever! I can feel the gain since about 1500 RPM
3. My redline is been decrease about 100 RPM my rev limiter kicks in about 6900 RPM now... (I got the 19% pulley I guess this is to be safe, but trust me it does need to go any higher at about 5k RPM the car is going insane!)
4. My DSC is a lot loser now! It actually lets me spin a little. (I always have it off… but in case I forget one day to disable it)
5. Power gain over the entire RPM range! Specially from 3500 to 6000 RPM.
6. I don’t have a top speed limit!
7. And most important! I super happy with the results....
I can’t believe I didn’t do this any sooner!
Carlos
#295
05-17-2005, 07:01 AM
6th Gear
Has anyone tried the new MTH race map?
Franz did this file for the Challenge MINI... He doesn't use the 02 sensor so it is not legal, at least for emission tests!
It is supposed to free up to 10hp on mid-RPM range with the "02 sensor bypass", from Franz's email to another MTH user...
I asked Franz for this file last evening, and I'm looking foward to upload it this weekend.
Anyone tried it yet?
Franz did this file for the Challenge MINI... He doesn't use the 02 sensor so it is not legal, at least for emission tests!
It is supposed to free up to 10hp on mid-RPM range with the "02 sensor bypass", from Franz's email to another MTH user...
I asked Franz for this file last evening, and I'm looking foward to upload it this weekend.
Anyone tried it yet?
#296
05-17-2005, 09:37 AM
4th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Miami, FL
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Originally Posted by DarkMiniCooperS
Has anyone tried the new MTH race map?
Franz did this file for the Challenge MINI... He doesn't use the 02 sensor so it is not legal, at least for emission tests!
It is supposed to free up to 10hp on mid-RPM range with the "02 sensor bypass", from Franz's email to another MTH user...
I asked Franz for this file last evening, and I'm looking foward to upload it this weekend.
Anyone tried it yet?
Franz did this file for the Challenge MINI... He doesn't use the 02 sensor so it is not legal, at least for emission tests!
It is supposed to free up to 10hp on mid-RPM range with the "02 sensor bypass", from Franz's email to another MTH user...
I asked Franz for this file last evening, and I'm looking foward to upload it this weekend.
Anyone tried it yet?
you list your mods and then specificaly ask for the race version?
thanks
#298
05-21-2005, 11:55 AM
Emergency! car is comatose
immediately upon start of upload I got some error message and process stopped. Now the adaptor is not recognized, ECU is not recognized, can't upload/download - nothing.
And, car is Dead.
Anyone in/near Santa Ana with laptop and cable who can help me? Please call
714-225-7878 (cell)
And, car is Dead.
Anyone in/near Santa Ana with laptop and cable who can help me? Please call
714-225-7878 (cell)
#299
05-21-2005, 06:21 PM
Has anyone helped you yet? Have you flashed with it before and had it work? If not then you made need to turn off other programs like virus scan or wireless networks. That last one has gotten me a couple of times. It's pretty scarey, but once you have the parameters set It should load fine.
#300
05-21-2005, 06:41 PM
Make sure you go in this order:
car off. computer on, cable unplugged from computer. plug cable into car, make sure led on plug goes green. plug into computer, let it recognize. If it doesn't recognize, try other usb ports, only one of my 4 work properly with the cable. now with it connected, turn the car to on. start procedures, making sure to put in your keycode to upload. If you get a failure, try the other usb ports in this sequence again.
car off. computer on, cable unplugged from computer. plug cable into car, make sure led on plug goes green. plug into computer, let it recognize. If it doesn't recognize, try other usb ports, only one of my 4 work properly with the cable. now with it connected, turn the car to on. start procedures, making sure to put in your keycode to upload. If you get a failure, try the other usb ports in this sequence again.
#301
05-21-2005, 07:44 PM
I have no other programs running - did ctrl alt del to check and msconfig to uncheck unnecessary programs in start up folder.
I have followed the protocol and green light shines brightly Still get the
"no echo - adaptor missing?" message.
The system recognizes the usb-serial cable and it is on com2. Baud 115k Changing baud rate does not have any effect.
Wasted a day here. I'm desperate.
I have followed the protocol and green light shines brightly Still get the
"no echo - adaptor missing?" message.
The system recognizes the usb-serial cable and it is on com2. Baud 115k Changing baud rate does not have any effect.
Wasted a day here. I'm desperate.
#303
05-21-2005, 09:31 PM
laptop has but 1 usb port.
I did try 9600 and it did not help.
gentleman from Minimods.com from TX called and said he unplugged and replugged in ECU, set buffers on the com port to 1 (supposed to help with troublesome connections). I could not change the "priority" of Cartune using the ctrl alt del. sequence, or at least could not figure that out.
just before pressing ID on Cartune, with car turned on, the light on the connector was green. As soon as I press ID, it goes red and the missing echo message pops up.
I'll try 9600 baud again in a.m. Hoping someone nearby can help with his connector and computer.
I'm bummed
MTH is not worth it.
I did try 9600 and it did not help.
gentleman from Minimods.com from TX called and said he unplugged and replugged in ECU, set buffers on the com port to 1 (supposed to help with troublesome connections). I could not change the "priority" of Cartune using the ctrl alt del. sequence, or at least could not figure that out.
just before pressing ID on Cartune, with car turned on, the light on the connector was green. As soon as I press ID, it goes red and the missing echo message pops up.
I'll try 9600 baud again in a.m. Hoping someone nearby can help with his connector and computer.
I'm bummed
MTH is not worth it.
#304
05-21-2005, 10:13 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Steve,
I am in Carlsbad... not real close... but I've got the stuff. Question: was this your first time trying to upload the MTH? Just curious... I can understand how frustrating it might be.
I've heard of others having trouble with Toshiba lap-tops not working properly with the USB cable. Is your cable the USB from Sensolutions? If that's your cable... do you have a friend with a laptop (or PC) that you could try? Transfer the program and MTH file to another computer and try again.
Here's another idea... try a soft re-set of your Mini's ECU. I believe it's nothing more than disconnecting the car battery, holding the two cables together (not touching the battery)... like to 10 seconds or so... then reconncet the car battery and then try and restart your car. Just MAYBE the upload didn't start - and MAYBE the ECU is just confused... the orginal programming may (might - hopefully) come back to life.
I hope some of this helps. Hang in there. I can only image how you must feel. At the very worst, have it taken to the dealer... but just say it wouldn't start... don't tell them what you were doing.
Oh, one more thought... I assume you installed the USB drivers? From Sensolutions for the USB cable?
Good luck!
P.S. - Many others before you have had success... you would be the first who's car wouldn't flash - etc.... I hope that's not the case... I hold out positive thoughts for you - that YOU will get this resolved (without the dealer).
I am in Carlsbad... not real close... but I've got the stuff. Question: was this your first time trying to upload the MTH? Just curious... I can understand how frustrating it might be.
I've heard of others having trouble with Toshiba lap-tops not working properly with the USB cable. Is your cable the USB from Sensolutions? If that's your cable... do you have a friend with a laptop (or PC) that you could try? Transfer the program and MTH file to another computer and try again.
Here's another idea... try a soft re-set of your Mini's ECU. I believe it's nothing more than disconnecting the car battery, holding the two cables together (not touching the battery)... like to 10 seconds or so... then reconncet the car battery and then try and restart your car. Just MAYBE the upload didn't start - and MAYBE the ECU is just confused... the orginal programming may (might - hopefully) come back to life.
I hope some of this helps. Hang in there. I can only image how you must feel. At the very worst, have it taken to the dealer... but just say it wouldn't start... don't tell them what you were doing.
Oh, one more thought... I assume you installed the USB drivers? From Sensolutions for the USB cable?
Good luck!
P.S. - Many others before you have had success... you would be the first who's car wouldn't flash - etc.... I hope that's not the case... I hold out positive thoughts for you - that YOU will get this resolved (without the dealer).
#305
05-21-2005, 11:46 PM
My suggestion is to find someone locally with another laptop, that is most likely the source of your problems. Not all laptops have the necessary configuration for such cables and procedures.
#306
05-22-2005, 09:00 AM
I have had this happen to me once at the track, flash stops in the middle and car won't start, turned out to be the laptop low on battery and started to go into save mode. Recharged laptop and flash went OK. From what you are reporting there could be one of two things, you have selected the incorrect EMS, make sure the software is looking for R50 EMS, the other could be that the car ignition is not in the run position.
I know its traumatic at this time, but try it once more and make sure to follow the steps correctly.
I know its traumatic at this time, but try it once more and make sure to follow the steps correctly.
#307
05-22-2005, 10:13 AM
have you tried using these drivers
http://www.obd3.de/pages/8_1_1_usb_treiber_main.html
also here is some help
http://www.littlemini.us/technical/mth/index.asp
http://www.obd3.de/pages/8_1_1_usb_treiber_main.html
also here is some help
http://www.littlemini.us/technical/mth/index.asp
#308
05-22-2005, 05:35 PM
I really appreciate the help. Still dead.
Previously, when it worked, I had to remove some programs to free up disk space. Did that again and scan disked, defragged, ran win doctor in Norton utilities.
Laptop fully charged.
Didn't change drivers - which were the ones Sensolutions sent me.
Sony laptop.
One usb port, set to 2.
I think it is laptop issue because it has been relatively inconsistent trying to ID car before. Last time I did not specify the ECU and it properly ID'd it.
I did disconnect the ECU at connectors and tried again - It did not work still.
Light is green at port until I try to ID the car - then it goes instantly to red.
I dread having to take it into dealer tomorrow. Big mistake fussing with it this weekend.
I guess some would say you get what you pay for. Lots of hours spent and a dead mini for it.
Previously, when it worked, I had to remove some programs to free up disk space. Did that again and scan disked, defragged, ran win doctor in Norton utilities.
Laptop fully charged.
Didn't change drivers - which were the ones Sensolutions sent me.
Sony laptop.
One usb port, set to 2.
I think it is laptop issue because it has been relatively inconsistent trying to ID car before. Last time I did not specify the ECU and it properly ID'd it.
I did disconnect the ECU at connectors and tried again - It did not work still.
Light is green at port until I try to ID the car - then it goes instantly to red.
I dread having to take it into dealer tomorrow. Big mistake fussing with it this weekend.
I guess some would say you get what you pay for. Lots of hours spent and a dead mini for it.
#309
05-22-2005, 05:52 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by SteveS
I really appreciate the help. Still dead.
Previously, when it worked, I had to remove some programs to free up disk space. Did that again and scan disked, defragged, ran win doctor in Norton utilities.
Laptop fully charged.
Didn't change drivers - which were the ones Sensolutions sent me.
Sony laptop.
One usb port, set to 2.
I think it is laptop issue because it has been relatively inconsistent trying to ID car before. Last time I did not specify the ECU and it properly ID'd it.
I did disconnect the ECU at connectors and tried again - It did not work still.
Light is green at port until I try to ID the car - then it goes instantly to red.
I dread having to take it into dealer tomorrow. Big mistake fussing with it this weekend.
I guess some would say you get what you pay for. Lots of hours spent and a dead mini for it.
Previously, when it worked, I had to remove some programs to free up disk space. Did that again and scan disked, defragged, ran win doctor in Norton utilities.
Laptop fully charged.
Didn't change drivers - which were the ones Sensolutions sent me.
Sony laptop.
One usb port, set to 2.
I think it is laptop issue because it has been relatively inconsistent trying to ID car before. Last time I did not specify the ECU and it properly ID'd it.
I did disconnect the ECU at connectors and tried again - It did not work still.
Light is green at port until I try to ID the car - then it goes instantly to red.
I dread having to take it into dealer tomorrow. Big mistake fussing with it this weekend.
I guess some would say you get what you pay for. Lots of hours spent and a dead mini for it.
My laptop, (a Dell) has 3 USB ports and I had the same trouble with finding the right port. When I would push ID, it would start to retrive it... then I would get that same error message you were getting. Out of the 3 USB ports on mine, I could only find one that would work. It didn't seem to matter which ports I would select from the software... ONLY ONE out of the 3 would work for me. So what I'm saying is it didn't matter what the software setting was... the software port setting seemed to have NO effect on it seeing the port it was pulled into.
Do you have a PC in house? You could bring that out to the garage. I know it's a hassel... but if it has more than one USB port... it's gotta work (hopefully).
#310
05-22-2005, 06:27 PM
One last shot...
1. Turn off any wireless/bluetooth services by using their "managers" (this is important!);
2. Keep your laptop plugged into the AC adapter;
3. Start the CarTune program;
4. Bring up Task Manager (ctrl+alt+del);
5. Click the "Processes" tab;
6. Find the CarTune.exe entry in the processes list;
7. Right-click on the CarTune.exe entry;
8. Choose "Set Priority" from the pop-up menu;
9. Choose "High" from the priority pop-up list;
10. Close Task Manager;
11. Start CarTune;
12. Try the upload again.
Hope this works,
Theo
1. Turn off any wireless/bluetooth services by using their "managers" (this is important!);
2. Keep your laptop plugged into the AC adapter;
3. Start the CarTune program;
4. Bring up Task Manager (ctrl+alt+del);
5. Click the "Processes" tab;
6. Find the CarTune.exe entry in the processes list;
7. Right-click on the CarTune.exe entry;
8. Choose "Set Priority" from the pop-up menu;
9. Choose "High" from the priority pop-up list;
10. Close Task Manager;
11. Start CarTune;
12. Try the upload again.
Hope this works,
Theo
#311
05-22-2005, 07:15 PM
Thanks
I have Win ME and I don't see that there are options with that s/w to prioritize processes.
I have nothing but task manager and explorer running. I think it is port talk problem. I've probably tried it 25 times with all combinations/permutations.
Can't transfer the Cartune as the screen for identifying the site code does not appear and that is needed, plus quick pasting of activation code.
Thanks again. Sure
I have Win ME and I don't see that there are options with that s/w to prioritize processes.
I have nothing but task manager and explorer running. I think it is port talk problem. I've probably tried it 25 times with all combinations/permutations.
Can't transfer the Cartune as the screen for identifying the site code does not appear and that is needed, plus quick pasting of activation code.
Thanks again. Sure
#312
05-22-2005, 07:59 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Koopah, Thanks for posting that info on setting the priority mode. I didn't know that - it will come in handy. Thanks.
#313
05-23-2005, 06:09 AM
It's working!! Maddog2020 from SCMM came from Santa Monica to Santa Ana last night at 10:00 with his computer. Uploaded new MTH no problem. Must be my computer'/WinME is all I can say. I was thinking ECU was fried.
What a guy.
M7 referred him to me.
What a guy.
M7 referred him to me.
#314
05-23-2005, 06:20 AM
MTH Specialist
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, TX
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WinME was your problem. Its a rehashed version of Win9x and they had reliability issues with USB, I think there is a hotfix for it, but it would be simpler and better to just move up to XP!
#315
05-23-2005, 09:51 AM
Originally Posted by SteveS
It's working!! Maddog2020 from SCMM came from Santa Monica to Santa Ana last night at 10:00 with his computer. Uploaded new MTH no problem. Must be my computer'/WinME is all I can say. I was thinking ECU was fried.
What a guy.
M7 referred him to me.
What a guy.
M7 referred him to me.
#317
05-29-2005, 05:49 PM
Threads merged
I merged your post into this thread. This is the MTH member to member support thread. Please keep MTH product/debugging issues contained to this thread.
Originally Posted by apexer
Am I nuts or all the posts I have seen in the past GONE
#318
05-29-2005, 09:08 PM
6th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Uniontown, PA
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Thanks for the help. I looked but couldn't find this thread
Originally Posted by DiD
Threads merged
I merged your post into this thread. This is the MTH member to member support thread. Please keep MTH product/debugging issues contained to this thread.
I merged your post into this thread. This is the MTH member to member support thread. Please keep MTH product/debugging issues contained to this thread.
#319
05-29-2005, 09:12 PM
MTH for my MCSa
Well I just sent my files to Franz for my MCSa so I'll see what he comes up with. The car currently has no engine mods but will have a M7 AGS on it when it arrives this week.
I did MTH on my MC a few times and was pleased with the results.
I did MTH on my MC a few times and was pleased with the results.
#320
05-29-2005, 09:15 PM
6th Gear
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Location: Uniontown, PA
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I currently have the Alta 15% pulley and I'm thinking about getting the Alta +2% Crank Pulley which will give an effective 17% SC Pulley.
I do have the MTH based on the 15% and my current mods (see singature).
My questions is, should I contact Franz to get a new version of MTH based on a 17% Pulley or, just keep the MTH I'm currently using?
I understand that I do not HAVE to get the up-graded MTH but, will I be sacraficing substancial whp?
I do have the MTH based on the 15% and my current mods (see singature).
My questions is, should I contact Franz to get a new version of MTH based on a 17% Pulley or, just keep the MTH I'm currently using?
I understand that I do not HAVE to get the up-graded MTH but, will I be sacraficing substancial whp?