My map 4 moved around 20 to 22psi, I read somewhere but I can’t remember about Manic stage 3 Tuned will hesitate around 5k+rpm on 4th gear. That seem to be like the same issues with my N54 years back when there is a TQ limiter on the Auto GB, really not sure what’s going on.

Really wish to go for a bigger turbo just like you, do you see any issues with the Auto-trans? Also Manic don’t do remotely tuning so may need to resend the ECU to them for the 2nd time & will be a pain.

Are you sure your stage 3 map 4 is set up for more than 22PSI boost? Your tuner should be able to tell you.

Tuner I used tells me stages 3 & 4 should be done with hands-on data-logging and preferably dyno tuning. Mailing the ECU is for the first two stages.

If you ever go with a bigger turbo, don't even think about a mail-in process, bite the bullet and drive / trailer to the nearest Manic tuner. Where are you located? If you ever do any data-logging, try to get a dyno chart to send with it, to see if there's any funny dips, etc in the curves.

As for an auto tranny, I have no knowledge or experience with the Mini auto, only in big V-8 muscle cars, where I consider them the only way to fly!

No, I don’t see it going beyond 22psi, I asked & paid for a Stage 3 with another extra 100£ for a race map (E30/ron102) but it came with just all 98Ron as based & the others as 98/Meth that’s all :(.

As mentioned I hv access with E85 & 100% Meth so fuelling isn’t a prob, that’s why I’m looking at turning the boost higher since I can’t adjust IGN timing on my own.

Oh I’m in South East Asia so is impossible to go to them, unless someone can do remote tuning.

Just in case you haven't seen the Manic Dealer map, here's a link --- http://www.manicmotorsport.com

Take a look at this thread by Tigger2011 --- https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-the-n18.html It looks like he has the capability to do remote tuning. There are probably others, but Lou seems to have the knowledge and experience, and is definitely helpful.

After several months of saving $$$, I'm finally moving on with my next upgrade --- better turbo and custom exhaust manifold. Just ordered them yesterday, so gonna be awhile before install and dyno, like Nov / Dec.

Here's a pic from the header source, and a link to their site --- https://www.scara73.com/web1/en/mini...e/2342-kit-350
The turbo flange will be a V-band, not the one shown, and I'm not getting the temp monitor either.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...c4029bc1fe.jpg


The turbo will be Garrett's G25-660 --- https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...eries-g25-660/
Found a couple vendors offering the full line of this model, but none of them had my choice of options in stock. After several emails and phone calls, I was able to find one, but then I had to change my choice of header sources. If anyone tries to order one and gets similar results, try contacting Garrett customer service, they forwarded my email to an "authorized distributor" who had my choice in stock. I suggest this route because of "knock-offs" that might be available thru "un-authorized distributors". The last thing I want for my project is a "knock-off".

While I'm in there, I'm planning on replacing the vacuum pump. The one in use has 100K miles on it. I've read too many horror stories about them seizing and breaking the cam. Even tho I've been faithful about oil and filter changes, I just don't want to take a chance. Probably stick with OEM, hoping it's been improved and more reliable.

Still getting an occasional CEL for DV operation, probably because of it's location. When I moved it from the ICI pipe to pre-FMIC was when the code started. Might have to cut the ICI pipe and add a silicone Tee, since there's no local welders that can do aluminum. Probably just need to search a little further away --- TBD.

Getting close --- new turbo's been setting on my bench for a month and the header arrived a couple days ago. Changed the vacuum pump while waiting for the header. Should have the header inlet ports enlarged (tapered) by Monday, to better match the enlarged head ports, then it's off to a local Cerakote dealer for an external ceramic coat. That's another 5 - 6 days process. While that's going on, there's some welding to be done --- a new downpipe, and a "T" fitting added to the ICI pipe so I can relocate the DV. Gonna be a busy couple weeks.

Here's a couple pics of the header, before ceramic coat ---
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...466469b7a.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...c63af8d73.jpeg

Time for an intermediate update, but first a couple more header pics ---
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...762d1fa4d.jpeg

Close-up inside the turbo flange
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...4cc952116.jpeg

Manifold is out for ceramic coating and ICI pipe is getting a 1” fitting to accept a DV. More pics will follow in a couple weeks.

Spent the last few days fitting the new pieces together, and finally got it done, but at the cost of butchering some of the front end plastic parts, tilting the radiator top forward, and possibly losing the grill (still working on re-fitting it). I’ll clean up the rough edges before final assembly.

For those of you considering this turbo for an upgrade, I strongly suggest you allow for where the WG actuator and diaphragm will be positioned. This will be determined by the orientation of the exhaust manifold outlet flange —- is it a “wall” (vertical plane, similar to OEM) or “floor” (horizontal plane, similar to my Scara73)? With a floor mount, the WG will be interfering with the radiator, and not just a little bit. To get my turbo mounted, I had to Dremel one leg of the fan mount and the surrounding structure, then loosen the top radiator support brackets, so the radiator core could be tilted forward —- about 1.25”. One genuine PITA!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...6d7739c0d.jpeg

As a result of these spacers, the grill no longer fits.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...665b4cca3.jpeg

My original planning was based on Garrett’s claim that this new model was a G25 series —- one size smaller than my current G28. I also didn’t want to deal with an external WG. Turns out that G25 and G28 refers to the CHRA size, not the overall size. Apparently, to get the claimed HP ratings, both compressor and turbine housings need to be larger to accommodate larger wheels. Also the G25 WG protrudes a lot more —- its mounting bracket is straight, where the G28 bracket is bent to make for a more compact package. Maybe if I had access to a machine shop, I could fab a different bracket, but we’re not playing “if”.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a6f0ff8d9.jpeg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...af5dd602a.jpeg

And finally, if anyone doubts I'm working with Garrett's G25-660, here's a pic of the model number, which can be looked up in Garret's catalog / web page. Hopefully China doesn't build in Mexico.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3dcbfe9f0.jpeg

Ok. Somebody has to say it so I guess I will. If those header pics don't qualify as car porn I don't know what does. Had to wait about five minutes so I could stand up without embarrassing myself. That's a rarity at my age :nod:

Can't wait to see this all together!

Time for another progress update, but first —- Happy Holidays to all.

Finally got the manifold back from being coated, looks pretty good. Here’s a pic of it in place. Managed to scratch it up a bit during my trial and error fittings —- it really is a tight fit, even in service mode.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...58fd57ac0.jpeg

Another Dremel operation was needed on the oil cooler reservoir, otherwise the manifold wouldn’t bolt securely to the head. This pic shows the install with two manifold gaskets in place, which allowed a small gap between the compressor housing and cooler. Final install only used one gasket, so there’s probably minimal contact —- those are pretty thick gaskets.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...43ec99e4e.jpeg

Earlier pics show the Dremel trimming needed on the radiator cover / fan housing. Final install needed more trimming and even more drastic changes. There would be no room for a down pipe if the A/C compressor is left in place, so it was sacrificed, along with the hoses and its radiator. Then, in order to close the hood, the coolant radiator needed to be lowered —- more Dremel work and losing the previously added spacers. Benefit gained is the grill now fits again. Downside is the coolant radiator is “sandwiched” in place —- supported on the bottom and lower front by the FMIC, and the sides by the hoses going thru the plastic housing. There’s a different set of spacers keeping the top away from the turbo diaphragm. Didn’t take any pics during this phase —- way too frustrated to handle a camera, but the radiator seems to be secure and the hood closes. Gonna miss the A/C in Nevada’s high desert this summer!

Besides losing the A/C, the Aux Coolant Pump was also sacrificed. There was no way I could get the hoses around the turbo and onto the pump fittings. It’s still physically installed, just not connected. Next time I disassemble the turbo air in and out hoses, I’ll be able to see where and how to get a wrench in there and remove it.

Next most difficult hose install was the turbo oil and coolant return. Here’s a pic showing the fittings, without hoses. Routing the hoses away from the exhaust pipe was the tough part. Easy to understand why RPM relocates the oil cooler for their prototype stage 4.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a38d6d891.jpeg

Then, today’s pic showing the turbo mounted. This pic is what I took to the muffler shop, to give them some idea of what the DP needs to fit around. Note the turbine outlet isn't "aimed" at the most direct DP location. That's because the turbo won't rotate any more --- it's already bumping into the vacuum pump. It’ll be another couple weeks before I can get it scheduled, then another week after that to get it ceramic coated.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...6794b9638.jpeg

What power ratings are you targeting?

More like "hoping for" --- "targeting" makes it sound like there's some science behind my efforts. There's a couple guys across the pond claiming 500HP plus. They're probably talking BHP, which converts to about 15% more than the WHP I'll be posting, but that's the range of numbers I'm looking for. My last 383WHP converts to 437BHP according to https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php This is pretty close to max for the Garrett I was using. My new Garrett is rated to 600. There's a few other Mini's with big numbers, both US and international, but few are built from the R56, which is my goal. I started this project claiming "the baddest Mini in northern NV". I'd like to expand that claim, with "qualifications" (R56 based and "streetable") to the USA. Some of us never grow up!

Should have some dyno charts in another couple months.

Is that much power manageable? How was your ~380hp for drivability?
i would think you’d have to feather ever gear. That’s amazing the transmission can handle it. I can’t wait to see the results.

Take a look at most dyno charts and you'll see the power doesn't come on 'til you start boosting. In my case, that was starting about 3.5K RPM. As long as I drive within reasonable limits, the handling is just like any high powered lightweight car. Put my foot in it, and yes, torque steer is fierce --- I've actually changed lanes, un-intentionally, until I got used to it. Remember, this car is a DD and not tracked. This new turbo should be quite the learning experience, we'll see ---

Love that you're pushing the boundaries! Good luck with the build and results! I did a similar build with a Honda S2000 and the chase for more power is addicting! I increased tire size and got stickier tires to stop all the spinning, but then I started breaking things! Sometimes spinning can have its benefits! Post some vids when you're "down in Mexico"! I want to see the go!

Great info here.
 

Wow, I’ve sure enjoyed the read. I’m still researching and contemplating what I want to do next with my JCW. You build threads have been very helpful in my research. Thanks for taking the time to post your progress, (and failures). Hope all goes well when you fire it up.

Did you make the ICI? What intercooler are you using? Is it 3” in and out?

Yes, I'm a hard-core power addict! However, it seems my choice of clutch / flywheel and slow-spooling turbo minimize tire spin at launch. Only time I worry about tire spin is just before shift RPM's are reached, that's where peak power is, and losing traction at those speeds is scary. Gotta love LSD's. Note that the "U.S. Mile" aka " Texas Mile" is located in Victoria, Texas --- not quite all the way to Mexico. If I don't take my own video, I'll definitely have their photographer do it for me. For those interested, here's a link to their site ---https://texasmile.net/texas-mile/

ICI is from JMTC, but I just recently had the BOV / DV fitting added. FMIC is from ALTA, one of my first buys in 2011. Turbo's turbine outlet is a 3" V-band. Trailering the car to a muffler shop tomorrow to get a 3" DP fab'd, to match the rest of the 3" exhaust system, which also came from ALTA, with the FMIC. Gonna keep it catless. Turbo being replaced was also a 3" outlet but a 5-bolt pattern. I expect to have a slightly used GTX2860R with manifold adapter and matching 3" DP for sale soon. Might even throw in the OEM exhaust manifold --- TBD. Let me get the car back on the road first.

Happy to hear you enjoy my build threads. Too bad there aren't more of them out there, there's certainly a lot more builds, just no readily available info with them.

Got a little time available so thought I'd post another pic. Trailered the car to a local shop that has 3" exhaust pipe forming capabilities, to fab a custom DP. Six hours later, I drove it home and took this pic. It's not obvious from the pic, but there is clearance between the DP and the manifold. I may have to remove or trim the "flappers" on the radiator support --- they contact the DP before they're fully open. Anyone have a clue what the purpose is for these "flappers"?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...6d498c348.jpeg

Kinda fuzzy, I'll post another after coating. Note the re-routed DV. Previous location was by the coolant res --- should function better when closer to the throttle body.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...584feaa15.jpeg

Last DP was a 2-piece assembly, joined by V-band fittings. This one is a 1-piece assembly but I'm assured it's easily removed and installed. I'll be finding out soon, when it's removed to get a ceramic coating. I'll post a pic or two after it's coated and before installation.

My last post indicated a turbo / DP might be available. Seems the guy fabbing the new DP used most of the old DP for material --- at my suggestion. So there's only the 5-bolt flange and a short length of pipe with one V-band flange available. I'll toss it all in for only the price of the turbo, price TBD.

The drive home was about 20 miles, mostly hiway but some city. Since the turbo is brand new, I kept the speeds and RPM's to a minimum (no positive boost pressure), but I gotta say, this turbo / manifold combo seems to improve the low RPM performance --- pedal response for lane-jockeying, etc without down-shifting. Maybe it's just because I haven't driven it for a couple months, and I'm comparing it to a big heavy V-6 4-door sedan. Also very happy to have it back on the road, and WANT it to be a significant improvement, so 1st impressions are probably heavily biased --- dyno will tell --- I'll schedule a pull after the DP is coated and installed --- late Jan?

Pulled the DP out and delivered it to the ceramic coater guy. Should be ready late next week. While it was out, I took a couple pics --- turbo end is on the right side of the pics. Looks like only the center section is different pipe. Both end pieces (with the O2 bungs) look used and familiar. Definitely not a piece to mount on a wall, as was suggested for the manifold. Fortunately, most of it doesn't show when hood is open.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3d5c3cf65.jpeg

Note how the brace has been moved and extended to reach the block. New manifold moved it quite a bit farther from the block and closer to the radiator.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...168ad4638.jpeg

Been about a month since my last post, and still no dyno pull. Only took a week to do the ceramic coat, then another couple days for me to install it. What happened was, during all the handling and fitting, something caused a couple codes. Not a CEL, just codes —-
P0108
P129D
P2B6C
P2B73
All relating to the MAP sensor.

Symptoms were - car wouldn’t start, just crank. Switched from map “B” to “stock” map and it started and ran fine (at idle, I don’t drive it on stock map). Switching back to “B” and it started and ran fine, as a DD. Didn’t try getting on it ‘cause codes were still there. Ran some data logs and found the MAP sensor reading wasn’t changing as it should. Bought a new sensor and the readings appeared to be corrected, but it didn’t help, still got the codes and “no start” condition. Another strange condition was when clearing the codes with engine running, the engine would “hesitate”, like it missed a spark, and the codes didn’t clear. Any other time I cleared codes while driving, there was no hesitation. Only an “ECU Reset” caused hesitation, which should be expected —- AP instructions warn to turn engine off before resetting.

Anyhow, data appears normal but symptoms persist. Cried for help to EuroTechs, who installed my Manic tune and is familiar with what I’ve done, and he walked me thru the troubleshooting process. New sensor didn’t fix it, so unwrapped the sensor connector harness to inspect the wires. I had previously used a Fuel (or Boost) Cut Defender to allow more than 22 PSI. It was spliced and soldered in the MAP sensor circuit and I removed it when Manic was installed. Found two of the three wires were broken at the solder joint. Repaired them and it’s working fine again, even when “punched”.

So, another lesson learned about ECU’s. The “learning” process done by the ECU —- remembering your driving habits, this data is probably what I was getting in my MAP sensor data logs. Car wouldn’t start in map “B” because of broken wires and stock map would accept the open circuit value. Once started, the “remembered” value was accepted by map “B”. Clearing the codes or resetting the ECU removed the remembered value and caused the “no-start” condition. At least this is my theory of how and why I had so much grief lately. Computer controlled cars can be awesome, but sometimes I really miss the old “elephant engines” with their dual AFB’s, etc.

Still have 4 - 5 gallons of 91 octane in the tank. Want to get that down to 1 or less then add 5 gallons of VP109 Reg (105.5 octane) for a dyno pull, maybe next week. Didn’t get the new pics I promised —- impatience and camera wasn’t convenient. With heat shield installed, there’s not much of the coated DP to look at, and virtually none of the manifold shows. I’ll try to remember a camera at dyno time.

Are you still able to get support for the Manic tune?

Glad you found the problem. Looking forward to seeing your dyno results.

Haven't tried to get Manic support --- yet. Maybe after the dyno results are evaluated by Eurotechs and we see how far off the current tune is.

Made it thru a local dyno and didn't blow it up. Unfortunately the dyno had a problem monitoring boost, so we had to rely on a visual reading of my dash-mounted gauge. I was really hoping to see the boost curve --- it seems to be a lot flatter (or more linear and less of an early peak). Pretty much expected because the turbo has an A/R of 0.92. Also, it seems to peak at about 27 PSI, just can't see where it peaks. Probably because of the tubular manifold, but maybe due to the 7.5K RPM rev limit. Maybe after I review the data log I took, I'll have a better understanding. Regardless of the boost numbers, I can't complain about the WHP increase --- about 90 more than previous results. Torque has virtually no change. Now for a serious review of dyno raw data and my own data logs, to determine whether or not another tune would be beneficial --- to be coordinated by EuroTechs in Tempe, AZ, as he can get around to it.

I didn't take any pics, too busy with data logging and ear protection. Since one of the shop techs was taking pics, I didn't worry about it. Only found one of his, but it's a beauty. Might be some video w/audio available too --- TBD.

Here's the dyno chart ---
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bc1e7def1.jpeg
Since I'm at 4500' elevation, there's a Weather Correction Factor, produced by the dyno when it produces the chart.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...c823e33af.jpeg