Hello to all.

It is necessary to get a remap if I have:

- 19% pulley
- no cat
- supersprint header
- oneball exhaust
- SCHRICK cam 264/272
- K&N panel filter
- 63 throttle body
- water to air intercooler
- Denso Iridium IK22 spark plugs
- JCW injectors

Thanks for answers.

 

Yes, custom remaps are nice but the JCW flash should be just fine for your app.

 

There are a couple of items that would concern me if it were my car.
The elemination of the CAT in the exhaust would seem to indicate that you have eleminated the O2 sensors in the exhaust stream and possibly used a dummy load. That would mean that the ECU is now running blind and cannot make A/F adjustments as necessary. This situation along with the altered A/F flows from every part you have altered, CIA, TB, cam, pulley, exhaust could result in unacceptable results. Some tuners continue to use the CAT on all out competetion engines in order to preserve the "real time" A/F adjustments. Your almost total replacement of every aspect of A/F management is risky.
Just my opinion but suggest you check with a well know speed shop, I happen to like Randy Webb of Webb Motor Sports. Good luck

 

cam, injectors, and throttlebody lead me to say yes... however you should really call a qualified mini tuner such as.

ldg or precision mini or something like that would be a good choice... idk maybe even giac...

 

I doubt you are running lean. Rich is where you should be with larger injectors on a stock fuel map.

The secondary oxygen sensor is not factored into the equation for A/F's. The primary does that job. The secondary sensor is used to make sure the catalytic converter is functioning properly.

An oversized throtle body is what I would see causing problems in the A/F's.

Pick up a unichip and have a custom tune if you are overly worried about it. Or go with an AFC if you are just worried about WOT A/F's. Not sure if any one has a reflash out for an oversized throttle body with an aftermarkey cam.

 

In the future I am going to get a piggyback. But this mods will be added to a car step by step.
I do not like to rechange piggyback computer for every mod. I will do it that on the end for everything together. So my question is not is it worth to get a remap but is it neccesary to not be to lean with mixture.

 

You will have a lean spot with that throttle body. Stick with the stock throttle body and the below listed mods and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

With how much you have done, and sounds like you may have planned, getting hooked up with a quality tuner shop is key. There have been several great discussions lately about why just continuing to bolt parts on the car is probably not the best thing to do. Just like a tuner isn't gonna be able to do your job by reading websites, they get paid to be very knowledgable about what works with what and the why.

 

well guess what i'm sure he is running lean! because i am!!!!!
if you install 380cc injectors the ecu will see it's running rich and compensate for the larger injectors and pull fuel in the short and long term fuel trims!!
which causes the car to run lean at high rpm's. i have seen this in my own car!!
so if you just installed the jcw injectors without the jcw reflash the car WILL RUN LEAN!!
so get the jcw reflash asap!
-john

 

I have heard about this but I have yet to run into this problem. What year is your car. And approx how many miles would you say it took the DME to cut fuel.

I'm running 550cc inj and not having any lean problems. 11-12.5 A/F's on boost and 13.8-15.2 cruising off boost. Over 400 miles since last DME reset.

 

my car has 13,600 miles on it. i ran the 380cc injectors in it for 2k miles not knowing it would do this. just installed LC-1 wideband and saw the results!
-john

 

if your running 12.5 at the top end that is lean. 11.4 til redline is optimal.
-johnw.

 

12.5 is not overly lean. It makes things hot yes. I am running leaner down low to help spool the turbo faster.

I noticed in your sig that you are running an AFC. Why would you not just make adjustments on the high map?

 

this is complicated. if the ecu is making gross changes in the fuel trims it will not give up/allow further adjustment using the safc if it is unhappy. and 12.5 is lean ask any credible tuner.
- john

 

if the ecu is making these gross adjustments it will correct right back to it's origonal tune/afr target and will be hell bent on sticking too it. i witnessed this in person by watching my wide band o2.
-john

 

also running lean to spool the turbo is never a good idea. the proper way is to use Nitrous oxide down at low rpm's and shut it off when the turbo spools up.running lean is never good for you motor. just run proper a/fr's and deal with the lag.i've been building race cars for almost 30-years now.
-john

 

12.5 A/F ratios all the way to redline is in fact lean. Using a 12.5 A/F ratio before the turbo is spooled is not in my mind lean.

So what your saying is that even when the motor is running like an NA motor it needs to be bellow 12 A/F??? I believe the correct A/F for an NA motor is 14.7.

I would make a suggestion about reseting your DME every thousand miles or so. But I doubt you would listen considering the discussion we are having about rich vs lean. Oh well. Good luck.

 

i have been over this on another thread disconnecting the battery doesn't reset the ecu as far as learned fuel trims neither does the factory scan tool from what i've heard. i tired this and the ecu was still correcting back. what experience do you have in tuning?
-john

 

14.7 afr is for closed loop cruising getting good emissions and gas mileage.
even for a n/a car 12's would be needed to make power.
-john

 

without adjustment for 10% ethanol of course...

 

Alright now I am trying to have a civilized conversation with you. No need for personal attacks. But to answer your question the only experience I have is tunning my MINI.

However a thought just hit me. The DME is only going to base its fuel correction on what it sees at partial throttle settings right? Once it corrects for the larger injectors on all the maps, it won't make another adjustment if you add fuel to the corrected map. This would only work on the WOT A/F. If the DME is doing its job the A/F's will be correct every where except on WOT. Since it is not reading off the oxygen sensor.

Add some fuel via your afc on the high map and see what happens. Should retard the timing a bit but you will have correct A/F's.

I have ran with 550cc injectors for around 8k miles. In twincharge form and now in turbo form. If what you say is correct about not being able to reset the fuel trim it would make sense to me that I adjusted the map after the DME trimmed the fuel. And I have not had to adjust since.

 

sorry man no personal attack just wondering your experience.
it seems from my experience is that when the ecu is not happy it will not allow any adjustments high or low throttle setting on afc.
sorry i am just explaining my experiences with tuning on the dyno with various types of cars.
-john.

 

Well my understanding from advanced electronic classes from the BMW program is that below WOT the DME reads off the oxygen sensor. And at WOT the DME reads off of the MAP sensor, IAT, Knock, Coolant Temp, and a few other.

So making an adjustment only on the high map should stay. That is if the DME has done all the correcting it is going to do.

 

well i have the innovate wideband in my mini and when i make corrections on the safc on the high side the ecu will not allow any corrections. this is because the ecu is not happy using 380 cc injectors on the stock map.
i have talked with my tuner and he says this all makes sense what is happening with me. including john from lucky dog garage.
-john.

 

Interesting. Perhaps with the AFC you are only able to subtract fuel. With huge injectors and big boost you will go way lean unless you cut back a lot of fuel. Sounds screwy and I had to tell two tunners to pull my car off the rollers because they didnt believe about that one. Try cutting back a little fuel and see what happens.