Suspension I have $500...now what
I wouldn't spend any $ on interior/exterior,the MINI looks perfect!IMO,any changes would detract from the look.I would just look at performance mods,but nothing too extensive(or expensive).If your're not in a hurry,just wait 'til something catches your eye.New stuff is always popping up!
My theory is to wait to do a 15% and CAI until after I run the dragon this year...I want to do 2007 w/o pulley and cai and then 2008 with it. My parents wanted to buy me a remote start for my birthday but I have ruled that out and now I have some money to MOD.....
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I will be ditching the RFT's after the dragon...(hope to rip them appart) then I have Spec-2's to replace them....no need for tires....
Short shift and *** is not a bad idea...but going with getting the most out of my money....doubtful I will "feel" a differance from those 2
Short shift and *** is not a bad idea...but going with getting the most out of my money....doubtful I will "feel" a differance from those 2
I saw pictures a while back of a Barret's Auction car (I think it was a Lamborghini) that the owner was demonstrating the remote starter. Well, the car was in gear he when he hit the remote start, the car jumped into another car.
Just my suggestion..
I'm all for being able to handle the power before adding any power. This means that brake and suspension upgrades come first...
1. Rear swaybar: $170 + 2 hours to self install
2. New brake pads: $170 + 2 hours to self install
3. New brake fluid: $20 + 1 hour to flush system (borrow Motive power bleeder from a local club member)
4. $110 M7 strut tower plates
5. $30 Alta panel filter
I also like the idea of stocking up on detailing supplies...
The DE / instruction idea is also top notch!
1. Rear swaybar: $170 + 2 hours to self install
2. New brake pads: $170 + 2 hours to self install
3. New brake fluid: $20 + 1 hour to flush system (borrow Motive power bleeder from a local club member)
4. $110 M7 strut tower plates
5. $30 Alta panel filter
I also like the idea of stocking up on detailing supplies...
The DE / instruction idea is also top notch!
Um...I would suggest you reconsider putting a remote starter in your car. Your car is an standard shift and to use the remote starter would mean you would need to leave it parked in neutral. I am not sure that would be a good idea.
I saw pictures a while back of a Barret's Auction car (I think it was a Lamborghini) that the owner was demonstrating the remote starter. Well, the car was in gear he when he hit the remote start, the car jumped into another car.
Just my suggestion..
I saw pictures a while back of a Barret's Auction car (I think it was a Lamborghini) that the owner was demonstrating the remote starter. Well, the car was in gear he when he hit the remote start, the car jumped into another car.
Just my suggestion..
If you look up...or actually look at what you pulled and quoted me saying...it says that I have decided NOT to do the remote start and insted now have the cash to MOD....I was at Battett-Jackon when the Lambo hit the Austin-Healey 3000....It was not the owners fault...it was his son showing off to a cute girl
....(when you fly from OH to AZ each January you get the inside scoop!!!I'm all for being able to handle the power before adding any power. This means that brake and suspension upgrades come first...
1. Rear swaybar: $170 + 2 hours to self install
2. New brake pads: $170 + 2 hours to self install
3. New brake fluid: $20 + 1 hour to flush system (borrow Motive power bleeder from a local club member)
4. $110 M7 strut tower plates
5. $30 Alta panel filter
I also like the idea of stocking up on detailing supplies...
The DE / instruction idea is also top notch!
1. Rear swaybar: $170 + 2 hours to self install
2. New brake pads: $170 + 2 hours to self install
3. New brake fluid: $20 + 1 hour to flush system (borrow Motive power bleeder from a local club member)
4. $110 M7 strut tower plates
5. $30 Alta panel filter
I also like the idea of stocking up on detailing supplies...
The DE / instruction idea is also top notch!
1. Flush out the old brake fluid. Especially if you plan on running track days or other high performance driving.
2. New pads, more aggressive, but street friendly.
3. A rear sway bar.
Neal, you said you intend to rip your runflats apart on the dragon. Well yep you can do that, but there's a very high probability that you'll rip the fenders off the car too.
It's a great road, but not very forgiving. No runoff if you step over the line. Save that stuff for the race track. Enjoy the dragon, but remember it's a public road & not some race track.
(they may be available when the 2007's come out, as I think they'll be using them, too.)
agranger has a very good list here.
I'd change the order a bit though.
1. Flush out the old brake fluid. Especially if you plan on running track days or other high performance driving.
2. New pads, more aggressive, but street friendly.
3. A rear sway bar.
Neal, you said you intend to rip your runflats apart on the dragon. Well yep you can do that, but there's a very high probability that you'll rip the fenders off the car too.
It's a great road, but not very forgiving. No runoff if you step over the line. Save that stuff for the race track. Enjoy the dragon, but remember it's a public road & not some race track.
1. Flush out the old brake fluid. Especially if you plan on running track days or other high performance driving.
2. New pads, more aggressive, but street friendly.
3. A rear sway bar.
Neal, you said you intend to rip your runflats apart on the dragon. Well yep you can do that, but there's a very high probability that you'll rip the fenders off the car too.
It's a great road, but not very forgiving. No runoff if you step over the line. Save that stuff for the race track. Enjoy the dragon, but remember it's a public road & not some race track.1) my girl will be making the trip with me
2) I love my car
3) I am not a daredevil of any sort...
What I should have said is that I will be using the reamaining tread that is on my stock RFT's at the dragon then coming home to some new Spec-2's





