Second autocross today, and somehow I didn't magically get super-better from the first. Weird, huh?

So now I go about trying to get as much seat time as possible. Moving back to college is going to help because I'll be smack dab in the middle of NY, and have three or four SCCA (& a BMWCCA) clubs to choose from. Looks like I'll be able to easily attend at least two events a month, classwork allowing, for the rest of the season (two more months, eh?).

My question is... Is this a particularly wise thing to do? The driver skill gained is nice, and it's certainly fun (most of the time), but my MCS is a daily driver, my first new car, my pride & joy – etcetera. I'm prepared to spend money on obvious wear & tear from autox – tires, brakes. But how much am I setting myself up for drama down the road, be it motor internals, tranny, or suspension? Thus far I've been pushing it fairly hard, no doubt over-driving the courses. Altho usually just leave it in 2nd gear after that initial launch. The thing was rattle-less before I started, now it's at a healthy looseness.

Will my MINI see 100k mi? Will it run through the factory warrantee without a big problem that'll get me some odd looks / questions at the dealer? I'm pretty sure I already mentioned autocrossing it to my MA, but... I don't anticipate any problems. Unless, of course, something grenades.

With this in mind, what's the best way to make sure the poor little thing isn't overexerted? The idiot temp gauge has remained solidly in the middle, and I've been running the AC on + off-course. I haven't been 'spritzing the intercooler' with water or anything, instead focusing on driving. Opening the hood after the end of each heat, let it run for five minutes or so. Anything else?

 

I've been autocrossing for about 17 years in a variety of cars and I've had very, very few issues related to my autocrossing. Brake pads don't even really wear that much, certainly less than if the car was an automatic.

Our MINI is one year old and we've had one single problem, a bad upper strut bearing. Sounds like this is a pretty common problem, especially on rougher roads, so I'd guess a pothole or two took care of it.

Anyway, as long as you maintain your car regularly, you shouldn't have any problems.

That's what makes autocrossing so cool...

Per

 

Well, Per has me by a decade, but in my 7 years, I haven't destroyed anything other than tires.

Also, the 2nd gear thing is a good idea. A lot of novices think they need to use first at certain parts of certain courses, but basically 10 times out of 10, it's a waste of time and unnecessary wear on your tranny. So you're already ahead of the game.

 

Over the last 8 years for me, also just tires, gas money, and minor equipment (air tank, small tool kit, cleaners and the like), and I'll add my own occasional destroyed ego after a few events of really good runs and then falling back to being consistantly inconsistant....

Just Attend and Enjoy.

Eddie

 

56k on my 2004 JCW Mini. Two and one half years of competition. One year on runflats, one year in ASP on Hoosiers, and this year (thankfully) in STX on street rubber again.

I am merciless on the chassis, but careful with the drive train. I do not snap shift on the 1-2 change, and do take the course in 2nd once launched.

On the street I drive pretty gently, but on the course I have hit the rev limiter a few times (Devens is spacious and we sometimes get fast courses).

I have had no unusual maintenance at all, no rattles, no failures, and the car turned 30 mpg on the last two tanks.

I know where you are coming from, because I want to be doing this another two years without going broke - because I love the car, and the racing, and I ain't rich!

So far, so good.

 

How long are your courses? I'm in Texas and our course this weekend was a 2 minute course (best time was 121 --- which I was considerably behind).

I'm really glad this thread got started. As a beginner in his first season on a teacher's salary I was definately wondering the same thing.

 

60-70 secs at Devens (airfield), and 30-35 secs up at New Hampshire International Speedway (VIP Parking Lot) which is, well, a parking lot!

Of course it seems to rain a lot which surely reduces stress on the car (not so the driver)...

BTW I now recall two maintenance items that did surprise me a bit, neither major, and neither related to competition that I can see. (1) pinhole leak at top right of radiator [replaced by MiniPeabody at no cost bless their hearts], and (2) rear brakes [my cost, as a wear item -- why REAR?] and I expect the fronts to need freshening next year. You could argue the brakes, but with respect I have 55,950 miles of street driving and 50 miles of competition, so I am not buying that autocross was the cause there...

 

And thanks for all of the reassurance everyone!

 

I actually don't like autocross courses that long! It's too hard to memorize the course. Gimme a 45 second course with twice as many runs any day 60% of which I'll cone

Roger "can't stay on a 2 minute course just like he can't stay on topic" B.

 

<sarcasm mode on>

Autocross is very hard on the Cooper and your wallet.

My 05 MCS barely has 1200 miles on the odo (12 hundred miles, not thousand), so is almost run in.

But since Feb of 05 I have had to replace

- wheels, off with the stock wheels and runflats. I now have more invested in wheels and tires than my first three vehicles cost in total
- tires, 7 sets of rubber since new. Why don't my tires last more than 50 miles? The V710's are better than the A6's, but the A6's have better grip.
- second set of rotors just installed.
- 3rd set of brake pads
- shocks, why must the replacement shocks cost over $2K?
- power steering pump and rack, replaced at 800 miles
- seat belts supplemented with Schroth harness

Damn, that's quite a list for a car that is not even two years old. unfortunately I have learned that I also need to tow my car everywhere, so figure in the cost of a F350 and an enclosed 26 foot trailer, and diesel for almost 50K miles in a little over 18 months.

These Mini's sure ain't cheap.

<sarcasm mode off>

 

You might save some cost if you didn't let everyone and their brother/sister run that GS monster! Oh by the way, can I co-drive for an event this winter?

John

 

John, I'd be happy to trade rides at a winter event. The more I run Craig's STX Mini the less I want to drive my MCS.

 

Sweet. I may play around in DSP this winter and then decide what to run next year. See you Saturday.

 

My only concern on the MCS is the strut towers, which seem to be a potential weakness even at the street level. Do you do a regular inspection for "mushrooming" or cracks?

From a mid-engine rwd D Prepared car to G Stock car. Poor baby, am I ever likely to overdrive it first event. Ehhh, well, the 17" stock runflats will keep me from doing anything too stupid.

~ Mo

 

Get the M7 SRPs. For $100 it was worth it to not worry.

I leave them on for the local stuff, but pull them for stuff events like NCAC and larger.

 

Racing anything is a very expensive hobby $$$$, anyone who says different just knows how to "justify" it in their own mind. Mechanical parts break, the more frequent and intense the stresses you put on them the faster they will break, not to mention just TIRE costs and other "wear and tear" items, brake pads, clutch plates, oil, filters, fluids etc.

Have fun, but don't think you'll get away without a big ticket repair item at some point. Best strategy is to learn how to fix everything on your car yourself, that's how all the other privateer racers make it work.

P.S. Is this car financed? I wouldn't let your lienholder or insurance co. get wind of it, they could call the entire note due or cancel your coverage, IMO.

 

They aren't stock class legal.

 

Will think about.

Reality-check. Thanks. And yup, I've always done 90% of my own work. Doing so on a clean non-rusty car = big improvement.

Ya think, even for autocross? Don't see how the insurance co. would find out, but lienholder is my dealership if I'm financed thru MINI, right? I think I've already mentioned it to my MA.. They seem very laid back at my dealer.

 

ALSO – does anyone know what class the new engine damper from LOTF bumps me into?