Hello all,

Just bought new WedsSport 16x7 wheels with Avon M500 (205/50/16) tires for our 03 MCS. I have an appointment for an alignment monday morning, and would like to know if anyone has some alignment specs that will work well for mostly street and an occassional autoX or track day.

I plan to stick with the stock suspension. The alignment shop has the Hunter setup. The wheels and tires were already Hunter roadforce balanced by Tire Rack. My goal is a better than a stock alignment without much more tire wear.

Your quick response will be greatly appreciated!

 

With a stock '03, all you can really adjust is toe. Camber isn't really adjustable, though if they loosen everything and tug on it while retightening, maybe you can get a touch more negative camber up front. Go as far negative as you can, but it won't be much.

For your use, I would suggest zero toe both front and rear. That will minimize tire wear, minimize rolling resistance (helps mpg), provide good high speed stability and cornering.

Hope that helps.
Scott
90SM

 

Thanks Scott. How does that compair to the factory specs? I don't know what they call for.

Grassroots motor sports said (april/06 issue)
rear: start with 1/32" total toe and adjust to driver preference.
front: total toe out should be 1/16" to 1/4".

Your thoughts

 

A little less and a little more, compared to stock.

I based my suggestions on your comment that you were going to do mostly street driving, with an occasional auto-x or track day.

The GRM suggestion is a little more aggressive, and would allow the car to turn in quicker, and rotate a little faster. The downside compared to the settings I suggested would be slightly higher tire wear, fuel consumption, and a reduction in high speed stability.

The MINI turns in so well compared to most sporty cars, it really doesn't need the extra toe unless you are getting very competitive.

In general, going to additional toe out up front will quicken turn in. Less toe increases stability. Additional toe out in the rear helps the car rotate, especially under trail braking. Again, less toe increases stability.

Most cars come from the factory with toe-in on both ends, with the intent of keeping drivers out of trouble. The further you go towards toe-out, the higher the concentration level that will be required while driving on the highway or less than perfect surfaces to avoid ending up in the next lane.
With toe-out in the rear, you'll want to be careful trail braking into corners on the track as it will be easier the loop the car.

If you want your car to be more resonsive to steering input, and are looking for better rotation at low speeds, then try the GRM specs. Just be careful until you get used to it (suggest getting to an autocross sooner rather than later to see what the car does in a low speed, controlled environment). Be careful who else drives the car. Plan on replacing tires a little sooner, especially as you approach 1/4 out. Toe has a far more dramatic impact on tire wear than camber does. Too much toe can trash a set of tires in just a few thousand miles. Plan on taking a small hit in mileage if you do much highway driving (wear and mpg change due to tire scrub as the tire rotation no longer aligns perfectly with the direction of travel).

Everything is a compromise. Decide what's important to you and bias your choices in that direction.

Scott

 

Great info Scott. Thanks so much for your help.

I think I will go with your specs of 0 toe front and rear. As I said it will be mostly street driving. We also have a miata with a FMll kit, so that is our go fast toy.

I see you also have a BRG 03. I have an appointment on Thursday with Eric at Helix to have a pulley and intake installed. I'm trying to decide between the 15% and the 17% pulley. Would you go with the 17%?

Thanks again

 

Eric installed my pulley, in December '03. Same time the Quaiffe went in. I went with the two piece (replaceable outer piece, fixed inner hub) and 15% initially. I liked that, but had Eric send me a 19% outer piece mid-season, along with a 0%. The 15% has been bagged up ever since. I tried the 0% for the 2003-2004 winter and hated it. Went back to 19% before the winter was over and it has never been back off.

I autocross a lot, but don't track the car so I don't spend extended periods above 6000rpm. I've had no trouble at all. I've got about 55,000 miles pullied, with about 45,000 of those with the 19% installed. 88,000 miles total on the car as of today.

While driving to work, the stock car was comfortable in 6th from about 60mph. The 15% lowered that to 55mph, and the 19% to 50mph. That gives an indication of the lower rpm torque increases of the pullies.

From your original choice, I would lean towards 17% if you don't add 19% to the option list. You won't regret installing a pulley, whatever your choice. If Eric is still selling the two piece style, you might consider going that route so you could have a 19% for general driving and autocrossing and install a 15% outer for serious track time in the summer. Swapping the outer pieces isn't much harder than changing out the belt. Eric can explain more and show you the parts.

Say "Hi" to Eric for me. I'm the crazy engineer that drove over from Indy for the diff and pulley install. He treated me really well, and knows what he is doing. Check out the brewery next door too.

Scott
90SM

 

Thanks for your input again Scott. I'll give you the my mod update when it is done next week. Eric said most likely monday. I'll say hello for you.