Drivetrain short shifter kit
FINALLY, I got my ride back on the road and put a couple hundred miles on it. It has the Altra shifter set in the meddle position. It is easily adjustable in leverage, so i may try the shortest setting, but so far the middle setting is quite nice.
It works perfectly. snappy and direct. I am very pleased. It is a pisser to put in, since you have to remove the exhaust, but it is well worth it.
the threaded stem of the shift rod is meant for a different ****, but not having one, I applied some friction tape and crammed on the stock ball for a quick workaround.
It works perfectly. snappy and direct. I am very pleased. It is a pisser to put in, since you have to remove the exhaust, but it is well worth it.
the threaded stem of the shift rod is meant for a different ****, but not having one, I applied some friction tape and crammed on the stock ball for a quick workaround.
there is another post about the Altra shifter kit with a few details as well;
to put it in: you need to get at the box housing the linkage cables; it is under the car betwen the center exhaust section and heat sheilding and the tunnel/body pan, so you have to jack up the car and remove the center and rear exhaust and heat shielding (1/2 hr)
pop the lid on the box and "pop" off the rod ends; hese are very tight and required that I rig a mini-crowbar. (10 minutes if they come off easy)
inside the car, pull off the boot and ring and turn it inside out pulling iit up over the ****. Release the three spring tabs securing the ball retainer from the nylon housing, lift up the retainer and wiggle out the shifter from the side link, being careful not to fu the bushing. ( a wrestling match requiring four hands; i slipped feeler gauges under the tabs,one at a time to hold them all open) (15 minutes)
lube the ball on the new shifter, fit the retainer, and re-install, using the bushing. this is a do-able but tight fit, rquiring some patience. (10 minutes)
insert the main shifter rod, pop on the rod ends from under the car, set it to the middle setting (set screw) and try it out. (10 minutes)
the box cover will interfere with the now extended movement, so I didn't replace it, as the location is very well protected as is. replace the heat sheild and exhaust, lwer the car (1/2 hr)
put the stock shifter in a vise and pull off the stock ball; it is tight. put the boot and ring back on, replacing the zip tie securing the boot to the shifter rod
I put a few layers of electrical vinyl tapoe on the threaded stem of the new shifter and forced the stock ball on. Other wise, you need to get a replacement Moma style threaded ball.
for the install, I would rate the skill level at low to medium, the frustration level at medium to high. you need 10mm, 14 mm and 13 mm wrenches to remove things, a thin blade screwdriver, three feeler gauges (.006 or so), a jack and stands. the exhaust removal is much easier with two people. If you are going to replace the exhaust anyway, do the shifter at the same time.
As I said, the thing works great. I am using the middle setting; you can pull up the boot and re-set it to high or low leverage in a few seconds; as long as the box cover is not on, otherwise you would have to have cut out some clearance areas in the cover.
to put it in: you need to get at the box housing the linkage cables; it is under the car betwen the center exhaust section and heat sheilding and the tunnel/body pan, so you have to jack up the car and remove the center and rear exhaust and heat shielding (1/2 hr)
pop the lid on the box and "pop" off the rod ends; hese are very tight and required that I rig a mini-crowbar. (10 minutes if they come off easy)
inside the car, pull off the boot and ring and turn it inside out pulling iit up over the ****. Release the three spring tabs securing the ball retainer from the nylon housing, lift up the retainer and wiggle out the shifter from the side link, being careful not to fu the bushing. ( a wrestling match requiring four hands; i slipped feeler gauges under the tabs,one at a time to hold them all open) (15 minutes)
lube the ball on the new shifter, fit the retainer, and re-install, using the bushing. this is a do-able but tight fit, rquiring some patience. (10 minutes)
insert the main shifter rod, pop on the rod ends from under the car, set it to the middle setting (set screw) and try it out. (10 minutes)
the box cover will interfere with the now extended movement, so I didn't replace it, as the location is very well protected as is. replace the heat sheild and exhaust, lwer the car (1/2 hr)
put the stock shifter in a vise and pull off the stock ball; it is tight. put the boot and ring back on, replacing the zip tie securing the boot to the shifter rod
I put a few layers of electrical vinyl tapoe on the threaded stem of the new shifter and forced the stock ball on. Other wise, you need to get a replacement Moma style threaded ball.
for the install, I would rate the skill level at low to medium, the frustration level at medium to high. you need 10mm, 14 mm and 13 mm wrenches to remove things, a thin blade screwdriver, three feeler gauges (.006 or so), a jack and stands. the exhaust removal is much easier with two people. If you are going to replace the exhaust anyway, do the shifter at the same time.
As I said, the thing works great. I am using the middle setting; you can pull up the boot and re-set it to high or low leverage in a few seconds; as long as the box cover is not on, otherwise you would have to have cut out some clearance areas in the cover.
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