I am looking for recomendations and opinions on the light weight flywheels and clutches that are available.

What weight for the flywheel and why? ( some are 12 and some are 14, some are 15# )

What clutch would work best with a lightened flywheel and why is it the best?

I run my car pretty hard and never hesitate to drive it on the track, sometimes it will run in 2 seperate run groups back to back. I also tend to be stuck in Los Angeles traffic a bit so it has to be streetable and pretty smooth not a chattering nightmare.

Please only post info if you have first hand info. I need info from people who actually have them in their car, good bad or otherwise I would like to hear it.

Did you feel like you gained power? What changes in manners should I expect? Is it worth the huge $$ it costs once installed.

I am also going to do the quaife at the same time, that is for sure. Just looking for info on the clutch and flywheel.

 

I have the Spec FW and stage 3 clutch. It's also my daily driver, but I drive 10 minutes to work with 4 traffic lights. It's noisy and difficult to launch. I'd have to really think about it if I had to drive it in stop-and-go traffic. Probably wouldn't be worth it. If I just had to do it, I'd go with the stage 2 clutch.

 

WE are in the same place so I would love to hear from people as well

 

do you know what the weight is on your flywheel? I was thinking the uuc or the rps flywheel and stage 2 clutch.

 

Turns out that Spec makes the UUC fw, just re-badged. It's 12#.

 

I had the Fidanza with Quaife. Ran it for 30,000 miles (from 30K to 60K).

It was noisy, but could be less embarrassing by depressing the clutch, removing the throw out bearing racket.

I did NOT replace the clutch. I had the 19% pulley and Webb/Powerchip and other mods, tested at 196 whp.

Due to an unrelated problem, I had to replace the LW flywheel at 60,000 miles. The OEM clutch still looked good! This after over a hundred wheel-spin auto-x launches.

Although I installed the Alta crank pulley - and it helped - the loss of throttle reponse has been a continuing source of dismay for me.

 

Brian,

I have a RPS flywheel [15# and now available from MiniMadness], Spec2 clutch and Quaife differential. The flywheel is a bit noisy when idling, but I got used to it. After installing the bits, I found that I got up to speed (rpm) faster (less mass to overcome), i.e., there was the feeling of much better/quicker response to putting my foot into the gas pedal.

The combination that I have makes for very pleasant, yet aggressive, street driving, as well as very good response on the track and autox course. Now, if there were a really good driver behind the wheel, my car would defintely be a contender, instead of the current status of "could have been a contender" (apologies to Brando) ---

As mentioned by others, the stock clutch seems to be pretty good, but I felt the new flywheel deserved a "sportier" clutch . Obviously, a huge part of the overall job is labor; therefore, I'd recommend doing all three of the mods at one time. If your car is for a fair amount of street use, I think a 10# flywheel is not a good choice. I did drive such a car and found that starting up from a stop was a bit tricky.

Good luck...

 

I think mine was 11 lbs. or so. It could be tricky on any kind of uphill incline, including even portable ramps to lift the car!

If I do it again, I'm thinking 14-15 lbs. might be the best combo for mostly street, especially since I now have the Alta lightweight crank pulley.

 

This is my next mod...... the car mostly lives on the street and the N GA mts so I need that balance between track car and streetable. Sounds like at least 12# and a spec 2 clutch

 

Same here...Fidanza 12.5# FW with Spec Stage 2 Kevlar clutch and Quaife. The FW is noisy as mentioned but it doesn't bother me. If the right people are next to you at the light, they know what that noise is and why it's there :smile: The Quaife is a little buzzy when off throttle but then, if you want race car parts, live with race car noises is what I say. Music to me The new found grip is phenominal The Stage 2 is very easy to live with...almost like stock engagement. Why did I bring up all three? You might as bite the bullet and do them all at the same time cause it costs the same to open the tranny up...EXPENSIVE

 

That is exactly my plan....all three together.

 

spider: while you're at it, since the subframe will be dropped anyway, replace the flexi- front control arm bushings with the powerflex.

 

sounds good to me....thanks for the tip

 

How will that effect the ride/handling of th ecar? Will it be more harsh or just more responsive?

Thanks for all the info so far ! ( everyone )

Keep those opinions coming.

 

so i don't have to chew my cabbage twice:

post 14
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=48776

more accuracy when cornering, better feedback to the steering wheel and better hookup when accelerating

 

Thanks, once I get the exact parts I am going to use figured out I will be sure to install the bushings in the control arms as well.

I am leaning toward the rps flywheel.

 

Ok, this is what I think I am going to do.

RPS Flywheel, RPS pressure plate and a new stock clutch disk, throw out bearing and pilot bushing. I am also going to do the control arm bushings and a quaife.

Does this sound good? or am I flawed on my thinking on the clutch? I know the mega mini put down 436 on a stock clutch so I would imaging that with an uprated pressure plate I should get better grip and still retain more of the stock feeling of the clutch.

Opinions?

 

i found the flywheel at rps but did not see a pressure plate. where did you find them? thanks. :smile:

 

The guy who is getting me the flywheel told me about them. He says that is what he uses. Personally I havent seen one but I do trust the guy who is getting it for me.

I may do th einstall myself since the budget is a little tight.