Before I go to a tire shop, I'd like to know what my options are. I have a slow leak, takes two days to go from 32 to 12psi. Is it possible to patch a run-flat or do I have to buy a NEW TIRE?
---2004 MCS

 

It is possible to repair a run-flat tire. It costs more to repair than a normal tire (probably because it's more labor intensive) and some vendors don't or won't do them. Just call around.

 

i would definatly not suggest repair of the run-flat tires and most dealers will not repair them due to a liabilty issue

 

Call first, also ask what they have in stock to replace it with! Also they may make you buy 2 or 4 depending on the wear!

When I got a flat, they refused to repair it, though it was in a repairable spot, they damadged the bead removing the tire, now it could not be repaired anyway. There were no tires in stock, all the run-flat tires were on b/o for weeks (this was a year ago), so I went with non-runflats which still needed to be ordered. It took 16 days all said and done. It was stupid.roll::impatient

 

H&J
Call around to see if you can find a shop that will patch it. These tires can be patched, you just have to find the right shop. I've had a lot of luck with an independent Firestone dealer. For some reason, he didn't even blink an eye when I asked him to patch one of my tires. He said it was just like any other tire repair.
Good luck.

 

Not sure if Discount Tire is in your part of the country -- they patched mine for free. Just make sure to tip the worker bee well!

®

 

I used a runflat with a slow leak for 1-2 weeks, when I had a routine inspection scheduled. Just checked it and "topped it off" every few days. I think the dealership charged me all of $10 to fix it. No problems since. :smile:

 

I have plugged the runflat tires myself 3 times with no problem. Easy to do yourself. It did not change properties of the tire as i have drove them flat after repair with no problems.

 

I had the same problem - lost about 10 psi over 2 days due to a huge nail in the tire. I went to 2 different tire shops and they said it could not be repaired. The tire was also on backorder everywhere, even the tire rack (Dunlop SP3000?). I kept topping off the tire twice a week mulling over what set of four new tires I would purchase (my runflats have 16,000 miles on them). Note that I drove it for 3 weeks with the nail still in the tire. Final solution - pulled out the nail and patched it myself with a $6 plug kit from Wall-mart. Suggestion - use extra (not supplied) bicycle patch glue too on the plug before insertion. I let it dry/set for 1/2 day. That was 2 months ago and every thing is fine with the repaired tire. :smile:

 

This depends on 2 conditions, the nature of the puncture's location, and the condition of the tire due to being run with lower inflation pressure.

Alex

 

I had the same issue, ended up being a screw in the tire. The dealership patched it for me for free.

 

Thanks everybody for your experiences . The damage was on the "crown," so it was time to make the jump to NON RUN FLATS. After much gnashing of teeth and reading NAM and misc tire forums, I went with Yoko AVS ES100s 205/45/16)... all I can say is, "wow, and they aren't even broken in yet." H noticed a difference immediately this morning when she went out for FRESH bagels, so LIFE is EXTRA sweet today. BUT of course I have another question about tires which I shall post momentarily...
Thanks again.

 

You did it in the right order, H&J. I waited until after I replaced the runflats with Yokos to pick up a nail in the crown.

To add insult to injury, the tire place sent me out with a severely underinflated replacement tire at closing time. The flat indicator lit up within a few miles of leaving the shop, and it checked out at something like 12psi!

 

Funny how the Universe works... after all this, the slow leaks, mulling over new tires, etc., I get a huge screw in the brand new, right, front Yoko last night (luckily I had gorged myself on meatballs and Manhattan's at Original Joe's in San Jose so I wasn't going to starve to death...)! It was so loud, CLACK-CLACK-CLACK-CLACK, that I pulled over before real damage occurred. Next to some homeless chaps who thought it very entertaining. LUCKY the screw was SHORT and didn't penetrate past the tread. It came out with a flick of my fingernail . I drove home thinking I was still glad I had left the run-flats behind... Walmart compressor and fix-a-flat were already in the boot.

 

Yeah, prior to my Yoko taking a nail, I cannot remember when last I had a flat. Not this millenium, I know that much.

 

Whovous - I know this is off-thread, quick question - what size are your Yokos and what pressure do they like???

 

fix a crap is not a good thing to put in the tire

 

But this is!!!

Alex

 

I have been having the same leaking problem since day one (a year ago now). My tire just slowly leaks, that's why I have the electric pump at the boot, in case I need to pump it back. Mine is not that sever, every 1.5 to 2 mo. it drops from 33-35psi to 25psi.

 

If memory serves (and it rarely does these days) they are 205/50/16s. I usually run at about the suggested 35psi, but confess I probably don't know enough to play with that number knowledgeably.

 

your link does not work

 

I think this is what he meant to post:

"corrected"

So Alex, why is this better than green slime or those other temp patch kits?

pyratio

 

Its sealant is water soluble, making clean up a snap compaired to slime!

Alex

 

Thanks for that. Alex emailed me "34f 36r" for my 205/45/16's. So I'm trying that... I wonder if the lower pressure in the front will help with understeer in the twisties... Alex? Anyone ?

 

Because?