Drivetrain Dyno Discussed by Dinan
Dyno Discussed by Dinan
I found this 4 page article by Dinan about the variables of Dyno testing VERY informative!
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=9
Also check out his article on the site about lightweight assembly's w/ pulley reductions......a litte scary ..especially item #3 about Fatigue!
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=9
Also check out his article on the site about lightweight assembly's w/ pulley reductions......a litte scary ..especially item #3 about Fatigue!
same here!!! ???dyno's
GOOD READS!-- did U mean 'grain of salt' ?
Originally Posted by eVal
Interesting, thanks for posting!
I have always been heartily suspect of dyno numbers and take them with a pile of salt
I have always been heartily suspect of dyno numbers and take them with a pile of salt

- kool...
Originally Posted by eVal
Nope, pile - given the factors relating to dynos much more then a grain 

Trending Topics
It can be done well...
but the key is the airflow. Even if the dyno can simulate losses due to wind resistance, without very, very high capacity airflow over the car, the cooling isn't realistic. For cars with an IC, this makes a huge world of difference. Some data logging I looked as suggests that the effect of TMICs is much lower in real world driving than the benefit on a dyno with a fan pointing at it.
60 mph needs over 5000 CFM of flow for a one square foot opening. You probably need about 1500 CFM through the IC alone. Also, this flow should be proportional to vehicle speed, just to really simulate driving conditions!
Other things to keep in mind... The benefits of things like lighter flywheels, wheels tires and brakes are dependant on rate of change of RPM. The don't create more power, but thay take less energy to get up to speed.
But after spending a bunch of time with a G-Tech and 0-60 times, I really understand the desire to be in a well controlled environment. It's just that most don't have the right stuff to work the IC or the radiators.....
Matt
60 mph needs over 5000 CFM of flow for a one square foot opening. You probably need about 1500 CFM through the IC alone. Also, this flow should be proportional to vehicle speed, just to really simulate driving conditions!
Other things to keep in mind... The benefits of things like lighter flywheels, wheels tires and brakes are dependant on rate of change of RPM. The don't create more power, but thay take less energy to get up to speed.
But after spending a bunch of time with a G-Tech and 0-60 times, I really understand the desire to be in a well controlled environment. It's just that most don't have the right stuff to work the IC or the radiators.....
Matt
I especially liked the part about power chips...and advancing the timeing to make it "feel" faster due to responce...I have talked to alot of people about this..but no one belived me..heh ehh...maybe now that Mr. Dinan said it they will listen...LOL

good stuff thanks for the post!!


good stuff thanks for the post!!
it's all about how much info U' can store, the rest is graaaavy......
......
Originally Posted by Tuls
I especially liked the part about power chips...and advancing the timeing to make it "feel" faster due to responce...I have talked to alot of people about this..but no one belived me..heh ehh...maybe now that Mr. Dinan said it they will listen...LOL

good stuff thanks for the post!!


good stuff thanks for the post!!
lightweight pulley's etc
Here is the artcile on the lightweight assemblies...good stuff!
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=5
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=5
Not to brag or say I am at all better than you guys on this statement at all, but I am personal friends with Steve and his right hand motorsports engineer named Chris, and I will tell you that I have been to their shop too many times and have viewed their dyno in action running on several different cars. I have never seen a company put so much logical thought into a dyno run in my life. They are so inteligent on the things that they do it blows my mind everytime I go there. People always question why their stuff is so expensive and it is because of the amount of engineering and quality that they put into the products they sell. One thing to think about is that Dinan is a aftermarket specialist BUT they also produce parts that are able to maintain the factory warranty. So in those terms yeah their products may not be the most aggressive but they were made for the average enthusiast (sp?) who just wants a faster cooper with the warranty still in hand. I say their stuff is frikin awesome and what they are coming out with for the mini S that has not been released is amazing. I totally agree that they know what they are doing and they do it for a reason. a great example is look at their boost kit. Most people just redo the pulley but they redo the pulley and the fuel pressure regulator at the front and rear. Why? Because when you reduce the pulley the motor then tends to run lean according to the tests they did, so therefore they adjusted the mixture by allowing more fuel through, now I guess you could do this with larger injectors but hey they are Dinan and I think they are great for what they do. Just my two cents.
Originally Posted by racinbmw
One thing to think about is that Dinan is a aftermarket specialist BUT they also produce parts that are able to maintain the factory warranty.
Originally Posted by rrattol
Here is the artcile on the lightweight assemblies...good stuff!
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=5
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=5

Yeah made me think more...'hey you can just slap this stuff on' cause some tuner comes up with it.......testing something for a month or two, doesn't mean it won't effect the long term stability of the mechanicals.
Originally Posted by chows4us
OK, I will admit it, some of that went WAY over my head
So what are they saying, the piggy back chips are worthless or was that about something else?
So what are they saying, the piggy back chips are worthless or was that about something else?

I have less mods and more or similar power than alot of people...casue I like to stick to the basics of engine performance...now if I was to use an AFC at this point I be I could milk as much as 10 more WHP ..that would put me at 198 with very FEW mods...
the thing is every engine is different...so to take a generic chip mod that does the same thing to all motors is not the answer...however, if you have an afc with a basic mod from someone else who has a mini with similar mods...you could use it as a base and then dial it in...
somethign else to think about is
that Dyno that was posted the other day with the 300 WHP from the NOS in the atmosphere...those guy have very basic mods...Pulley, CAI, Exhuast, head/cam, injectors, and afc...they made some 207 WHP ...there are other people running chip this and pulleys wazooo who made less...people are so quick to bold on everything that is made for the mini...they haven't stoped to research engines enough to know if they should.
Even what SPI did was a "simple mod" that being...leave the motor stock...everything was stock...add a turbo, injectors,...dial it in with an AFC...BAM!! 265WHP...heck that crazy El Diablito guy made 282 WHP with only head/cam added...and only couldn't do more cause of lack of fuel...
Now remember I said simple...not cheap...and that is where I think alot of people fall short...there is no such this as cheap HP after you do the basic mods.
P.S. I am not saying use Dinan...I am saying DO THE RESEARCH..find out what you want and go for it
Basically these Dinan articles are stating what alot of other tuners (SPI) and other people [myself included (I also belive there was alot of talk like this from EL)] have been saying...that there is a greater formula to modding your Mini...or ANY car...not just taking what people put out on the market and bolting it on cause "it makes more power"
even a simple raise of the redline will get a forced induction car more power...cause you are boosting longer...it's that simple..
there are formulas...it's not rocket science...but maybe thermo dynamics...heh eh...
even a simple raise of the redline will get a forced induction car more power...cause you are boosting longer...it's that simple..
there are formulas...it's not rocket science...but maybe thermo dynamics...heh eh...
not wanting to change the topic of this thread but, Tuls, is there a special reason why you haven't followed the majority and changed your wheels to lighter aftermarket wheels? You obviously know your stuff but seeing your car and reading some of your posts makes me wonder why still use those 'heavy' wheels?
respectfully...
respectfully...
Originally Posted by cooldaddy
not wanting to change the topic of this thread but, Tuls, is there a special reason why you haven't followed the majority and changed your wheels to lighter aftermarket wheels? You obviously know your stuff but seeing your car and reading some of your posts makes me wonder why still use those 'heavy' wheels?
respectfully...

respectfully...

I havea plan and I do not stray from it...and although the wheels are heavy...the tires are still good and I'm saving $ for other things by not replacing them...
but MOST of all the wheels I want are about 6k are 18s and weigh only 8 lbs...that's all I'll say about them...
I will prolly get something in the mean time as my tires are getting there...as soon as I complete my next mod...which I am saving for franticly...heh he...but it will take sometime..
..top secret so don't ask
it's a valid question...and belive me...I don't want those boat anchors on there but they work for now
??? 18's/ 8lbs ????
wow!!! now that.. i can see payin' 6g's for.
they must be some exotic type of metal or not???
--& havin' a plan is & stickin' to it is KEY--
they must be some exotic type of metal or not???
--& havin' a plan is & stickin' to it is KEY--
Originally Posted by Tuls
hey....NP...there are a couple of reasons...
I havea plan and I do not stray from it...and although the wheels are heavy...the tires are still good and I'm saving $ for other things by not replacing them...
but MOST of all the wheels I want are about 6k are 18s and weigh only 8 lbs...that's all I'll say about them...
I will prolly get something in the mean time as my tires are getting there...as soon as I complete my next mod...which I am saving for franticly...heh he...but it will take sometime..
..top secret so don't ask
it's a valid question...and belive me...I don't want those boat anchors on there but they work for now
I havea plan and I do not stray from it...and although the wheels are heavy...the tires are still good and I'm saving $ for other things by not replacing them...
but MOST of all the wheels I want are about 6k are 18s and weigh only 8 lbs...that's all I'll say about them...
I will prolly get something in the mean time as my tires are getting there...as soon as I complete my next mod...which I am saving for franticly...heh he...but it will take sometime..
..top secret so don't ask
it's a valid question...and belive me...I don't want those boat anchors on there but they work for now
i dont think i've read anything better said (explained) than this post.
--hey! Tuls, try not 2 put alot of these Companies out of business,
J/K
--hey! Tuls, try not 2 put alot of these Companies out of business,
J/K
Originally Posted by Tuls
I wouldn't say worthless...I think what he was saying is that advancing timing is not nessisarily the way to get more power...infact alot of times it's better to retard timing on forced induction cars
I have less mods and more or similar power than alot of people...casue I like to stick to the basics of engine performance...now if I was to use an AFC at this point I be I could milk as much as 10 more WHP ..that would put me at 198 with very FEW mods...
the thing is every engine is different...so to take a generic chip mod that does the same thing to all motors is not the answer...however, if you have an afc with a basic mod from someone else who has a mini with similar mods...you could use it as a base and then dial it in...
somethign else to think about is
that Dyno that was posted the other day with the 300 WHP from the NOS in the atmosphere...those guy have very basic mods...Pulley, CAI, Exhuast, head/cam, injectors, and afc...they made some 207 WHP ...there are other people running chip this and pulleys wazooo who made less...people are so quick to bold on everything that is made for the mini...they haven't stoped to research engines enough to know if they should.
Even what SPI did was a "simple mod" that being...leave the motor stock...everything was stock...add a turbo, injectors,...dial it in with an AFC...BAM!! 265WHP...heck that crazy El Diablito guy made 282 WHP with only head/cam added...and only couldn't do more cause of lack of fuel...
Now remember I said simple...not cheap...and that is where I think alot of people fall short...there is no such this as cheap HP after you do the basic mods.
P.S. I am not saying use Dinan...I am saying DO THE RESEARCH..find out what you want and go for it
I have less mods and more or similar power than alot of people...casue I like to stick to the basics of engine performance...now if I was to use an AFC at this point I be I could milk as much as 10 more WHP ..that would put me at 198 with very FEW mods...
the thing is every engine is different...so to take a generic chip mod that does the same thing to all motors is not the answer...however, if you have an afc with a basic mod from someone else who has a mini with similar mods...you could use it as a base and then dial it in...
somethign else to think about is
that Dyno that was posted the other day with the 300 WHP from the NOS in the atmosphere...those guy have very basic mods...Pulley, CAI, Exhuast, head/cam, injectors, and afc...they made some 207 WHP ...there are other people running chip this and pulleys wazooo who made less...people are so quick to bold on everything that is made for the mini...they haven't stoped to research engines enough to know if they should.
Even what SPI did was a "simple mod" that being...leave the motor stock...everything was stock...add a turbo, injectors,...dial it in with an AFC...BAM!! 265WHP...heck that crazy El Diablito guy made 282 WHP with only head/cam added...and only couldn't do more cause of lack of fuel...
Now remember I said simple...not cheap...and that is where I think alot of people fall short...there is no such this as cheap HP after you do the basic mods.
P.S. I am not saying use Dinan...I am saying DO THE RESEARCH..find out what you want and go for it
thanks, that's what I figured... 2
's for your car, sweet ride for sure!
Originally Posted by Tuls
hey....NP...there are a couple of reasons...
I havea plan and I do not stray from it...and although the wheels are heavy...the tires are still good and I'm saving $ for other things by not replacing them...
but MOST of all the wheels I want are about 6k are 18s and weigh only 8 lbs...that's all I'll say about them...
I will prolly get something in the mean time as my tires are getting there...as soon as I complete my next mod...which I am saving for franticly...heh he...but it will take sometime..
..top secret so don't ask
it's a valid question...and belive me...I don't want those boat anchors on there but they work for now
I havea plan and I do not stray from it...and although the wheels are heavy...the tires are still good and I'm saving $ for other things by not replacing them...
but MOST of all the wheels I want are about 6k are 18s and weigh only 8 lbs...that's all I'll say about them...
I will prolly get something in the mean time as my tires are getting there...as soon as I complete my next mod...which I am saving for franticly...heh he...but it will take sometime..
..top secret so don't ask
it's a valid question...and belive me...I don't want those boat anchors on there but they work for now


