N18 Mini Cooper S

I got the pictured codes while doing a moderate pull in 2nd (not jamming on it but not babying it either). I cleared them and they won't come back, however, the car is still misfiring terribly (it feels like Im on 1 or 2 cylinders rather than 3). Obviously, I gotta try swapping coil packs, but Im not able to at the moment and the charge air temperature sensor has me thrown off. Any ideas? The car will go between driving normally and misfiring rather rapidly, neither of them are constant. Surely, a misfire code should come right back and the engine light hasn't returned after about .5 miles of driving like ****, I limped it up the hill to my job.

 

My guess is that the charge air temp sensor fault is causing your misfires. Replace the sensor, and see what happens.

Part number 13627599906. Item #5 in this diagram:

 

I got the error to come back. That code is gone but the other 4 remain. I swapped 3 and 4 for the coil packs, still running like dogwater, but the light hasn't come back yet.

 

The error came back and lo and behold: cylinder 4 misfire! Woo! Got a new duralast pack for now, plan to replace all 4 with Bavarian autosports packs from ecs, but just had to get it running properly. The multiple misfire really had me confused and overthinking.

 

Before you start the car for the 1st time tomorrow, connect your scan tool and bring up the charge air temp sensor, and the ambient air temp sensor. See if the two readings are close to the ambient air temperature.

Then, bring up your short term and long term fuel trims. With the engine fully warmed up, write down the STFT and LTFT numbers at idle, 1500 RPM, and 3000 RPM. Post your numbers.

Next, in the global OBDII menu and the engine fully warmed up, bring up the upstream O2 sensor current B1S1 current (not voltage), and make sure the sensor is switching. Go for a drive while monitoring the upstream O2 sensor current and make sure the current drops during WOT, and rises during deceleration.

Post your findings.

 

So, Ive yet to do that, but the CEL has been gone ever since I put the new coil pack, however, Ive noticed some irregularities since I "fixed" it the other day: it idles at 900-950 rpm now and while it starts up completely fine (even in -2⁰ F), it only goes up to 1100rpm for the cold start instead of the usual 14-1500. Could these be symptoms of a charge air sensor going bad without throwing a code or is it just that the car is picky and does not like the crappy duralast coil pack (I have a set of 4 new packs coming, I just needed something for the time being)? Is there an idle relearn procedure I need to do after the issues the other day? Thanks and sorry!