R56 So many issues
So many issues
More issues with my junk Mini R56. 2010, apx 107,500 miles, no crashes.
Car started hesitating and a ride home on a highway for over 40 miles, no CEL. Stalled out at the 1st red light. Started up after a few mins and made it home, 1.5 miles away. Still no CEL codes. Next morning, all coolant on the drive, passenger side. Figured it was the plastic water pipe at the water pump side. 3rd time this pipe has failed in 2.5 years. This time, I got a metal one. Unhooked the negative terminal. Tight fit as you all know, so I removed the airbox, and removed the bolts for the manifold and pulled it up out of the way. Moved the center wiring harness out of the way, along with unhooking the 2 wire clusters on what I believe is the ECU. This gave me plenty of room to disconnect the 4 coolant hoses for the thermostat housing unit. Removed the 3 bolts for the thermostat housing unit and removed the old water pipe. Installed the new metal pipe and resecured the Therm Housing unit. 4 coolant pipes reattached to the TH unit. connected the various wiring clusters near TH unit, airbox, camshaft sensor, and ECU. Secured the manifold again, then airbox, etc. Filled the coolant and no issues with it leaking. Reconnected the negative battery terminal. Car fired up and now CEL lit. Scanned it and got a massive amount of codes.
P0030- upstream 02 sensor
P0036- downstream 02 sensor
P0444- Evap purge control valve circuit open
P2088- Camshaft position actuator control circuit low
P0003- Fuel volume regulator control circuit low
P0100 Mass Airflow circuit
P0304- cylinder 4 misfire
P0598- Thermostat heater control circuit
How it is possible to have all these codes at once? How does both 02 sensors go bad at same time? So far, I ordered the upstream and downstream 02 sensors, camshaft sensor and a thermostat sensor (instead of new thermostat housing unit).These are the cheapest fixes that I can do myself and to my knowledge have never been replaced before. Any ideas?
Car started hesitating and a ride home on a highway for over 40 miles, no CEL. Stalled out at the 1st red light. Started up after a few mins and made it home, 1.5 miles away. Still no CEL codes. Next morning, all coolant on the drive, passenger side. Figured it was the plastic water pipe at the water pump side. 3rd time this pipe has failed in 2.5 years. This time, I got a metal one. Unhooked the negative terminal. Tight fit as you all know, so I removed the airbox, and removed the bolts for the manifold and pulled it up out of the way. Moved the center wiring harness out of the way, along with unhooking the 2 wire clusters on what I believe is the ECU. This gave me plenty of room to disconnect the 4 coolant hoses for the thermostat housing unit. Removed the 3 bolts for the thermostat housing unit and removed the old water pipe. Installed the new metal pipe and resecured the Therm Housing unit. 4 coolant pipes reattached to the TH unit. connected the various wiring clusters near TH unit, airbox, camshaft sensor, and ECU. Secured the manifold again, then airbox, etc. Filled the coolant and no issues with it leaking. Reconnected the negative battery terminal. Car fired up and now CEL lit. Scanned it and got a massive amount of codes.
P0030- upstream 02 sensor
P0036- downstream 02 sensor
P0444- Evap purge control valve circuit open
P2088- Camshaft position actuator control circuit low
P0003- Fuel volume regulator control circuit low
P0100 Mass Airflow circuit
P0304- cylinder 4 misfire
P0598- Thermostat heater control circuit
How it is possible to have all these codes at once? How does both 02 sensors go bad at same time? So far, I ordered the upstream and downstream 02 sensors, camshaft sensor and a thermostat sensor (instead of new thermostat housing unit).These are the cheapest fixes that I can do myself and to my knowledge have never been replaced before. Any ideas?
Currently the vehicle is sitting with CEL lights on. Car starts and sounds good. Afraid to drive it and break down. Are you saying to clear the codes, unhook battery, then hook battery up then check codes again?
If the car runs and drives fine, then just clear the codes, turn the car off, then turn it back on and drive it. Monitor the car to see if any of those codes come back.
I would suspect that the codes were triggered from having the car disconnected for the servicing.
I would suspect that the codes were triggered from having the car disconnected for the servicing.
It's also possible that, after clearing all fault codes, none reappears. In that case, you can cancel parts order or return them.
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Several days later and car is in limp mode. Tons of codes still. These cars are a nightmare to own.
Based on the codes, I ordered and replaced both 02 sensors, the camshaft sensor and the Thermostat sensor. Heat is still cold air too. After replacing those sensors, codes still present.
Based on the codes, I ordered and replaced both 02 sensors, the camshaft sensor and the Thermostat sensor. Heat is still cold air too. After replacing those sensors, codes still present.
Ran ac on cold, left reservoir cap open and used the small screw on top of the housing unit. Filled up reservoir until it stopped draining and small amount coming out of the bleeder screw. Hopefully that's the coreect to bleed the coolant system. Ill check the fuses tomorrow morning. Why would the fuse all is a sudden blow? Because I unhooked the positive terminal prior to service?
Just checked the fuse and all the ones in that box and all are OK. The few videos I watched on YouTube say turn AC on during bleeding. Ill try heat tomorrow once the sumln comes up.
They clear for like 10 seconds then come back, along with the engine light on the middle speedometer and the limp mode engine symbol on the steering cluster. Also the car is hesitant upon throttle, and very slow.
1 other thing that may or may not be an issue. Over the summer, my footwell fuse box went bad. The starter relay. I got 2 new relays and had a local guy remove and install them. He did a shitty job and the car stopped working after a few weeks. So, I took the fuse box out and got a used one from ebay. It worked immediately and cleared up any starting issues or issues relating to lights staying on after power off and window issues. However, the fuse box was not coded to my car and some options no longer work such as heated seats or mirrors. That donor fuse box is still in the vehicle today. The original one is currently with FedEx going to automotive circuit solutions in Missouri. They are going try repair the known fuel relay issue and also redo the hack job for the 2 starter relays. Not sure if this donor fuse box is causing the issues.
Those codes are still consistent with a voltage issue from fuse F02.
Test installed F02 like this:
1) Insert key and press start button without pressing clutch pedal (engine OFF, terminal 15 ON)
2) Test voltage with a multimeter at each top test tab of installed fuse F02. This is done by touching the black meter probe to the battery ground post and the red meter probe to one of the two top test tabs of F02. Repeat same test on the other test tab. What are the two voltage readings?
Test installed F02 like this:
1) Insert key and press start button without pressing clutch pedal (engine OFF, terminal 15 ON)
2) Test voltage with a multimeter at each top test tab of installed fuse F02. This is done by touching the black meter probe to the battery ground post and the red meter probe to one of the two top test tabs of F02. Repeat same test on the other test tab. What are the two voltage readings?
1 other thing that may or may not be an issue. Over the summer, my footwell fuse box went bad. The starter relay. I got 2 new relays and had a local guy remove and install them. He did a shitty job and the car stopped working after a few weeks. So, I took the fuse box out and got a used one from ebay. It worked immediately and cleared up any starting issues or issues relating to lights staying on after power off and window issues. However, the fuse box was not coded to my car and some options no longer work such as heated seats or mirrors. That donor fuse box is still in the vehicle today. The original one is currently with FedEx going to automotive circuit solutions in Missouri. They are going try repair the known fuel relay issue and also redo the hack job for the 2 starter relays. Not sure if this donor fuse box is causing the issues.
The donor fuse box was working fine since July, other then heated seats options. Just started having issues early December. 1st issue was stalling out, no codes then massive collant leafrom water pipe. Unhooked battery terminal to do water pipe repairs then codes appeared. Then changed the 02 sensors, etc and no improvement. Ill head to store tomm to get a meter to check that fuse.







