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Hi,
Considering getting a JCW sway bar for my S F60. Anyone know what it takes to swap it out? Does it just slide in and out easily, does the sub-frame need to be dropped, etc. I would likely pay the dealer to maintain the warranty, and so when I trade in I can say no aftermarket performance parts used. Thanks!
I installed an NM Engineering 25mm rear sway bar today with some g-maxx end links. Before last week, I had never done any work on a car. I do have some experience working on motorcycles though, which seems to translate pretty well. It took most of the afternoon, but in hindsight, it could probably be done in 45-60 minutes if you're familiar with what's going on behind your wheels. The instructions make it seem a lot more involved than it actually is.
Simpler steps:
Removes the wheels.
Undo top bolt on end links.
Use a jack to compress the springs, giving a clear line to the lower bolt of the end links. Remove it.
While supporting the arm with the jack, unbolt the lower shock bolt.
Pull out the springs.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe up. I supported the subframe with a jack just in case.
Remove the brackets holding the sway bar on. To remove the top bolt, use a pry bar to make some room.
Unclip the brake lines to clear a path for the sway bar. Push the sway bar out from the left side.
Reverse the steps with your new gear and call it a day. It goes on easier than it came off. Don't forget to torque everything to spec.
Go for a drive and enjoy the reduced body roll.
Challenges I had:
Took a bit to realize I had to use a jack to compress the springs to create a gap to easily remove the lower bolt on the end links.
Second guessed myself on how to drop the subframe. Dad simple though.
The bracket holding the sway bar was much beefier than the one shown in the instructions, making it difficult to get to the top bolt. I ended up using a longish pry bar to open the gap wide enough to slip a ratchet up there. Did the same to reinstall.
Had to use the jack to lift the subframe up to allow me to thread the bolts back in on reinstall.
That's it. Beyond those minor troubles, it was pretty straight forward. If you have a decent set of tools, no reason to not attempt it yourself and save a grand in labor that could be used for other fun parts.
The result: body roll has been significantly reduced and it got even more fun to drive. Next up, I'm installing some H&R springs and some new rotors and ceramic pads. New brake lines are coming in a week or so. New wheels also in about a week.
I installed an NM Engineering 25mm rear sway bar today with some g-maxx end links. Before last week, I had never done any work on a car. I do have some experience working on motorcycles though, which seems to translate pretty well. It took most of the afternoon, but in hindsight, it could probably be done in 45-60 minutes if you're familiar with what's going on behind your wheels. The instructions make it seem a lot more involved than it actually is.
Simpler steps:
Removes the wheels.
Undo top bolt on end links.
Use a jack to compress the springs, giving a clear line to the lower bolt of the end links. Remove it.
While supporting the arm with the jack, unbolt the lower shock bolt.
Pull out the springs.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe up. I supported the subframe with a jack just in case.
Remove the brackets holding the sway bar on. To remove the top bolt, use a pry bar to make some room.
Unclip the brake lines to clear a path for the sway bar. Push the sway bar out from the left side.
Reverse the steps with your new gear and call it a day. It goes on easier than it came off. Don't forget to torque everything to spec.
Go for a drive and enjoy the reduced body roll.
Challenges I had:
Took a bit to realize I had to use a jack to compress the springs to create a gap to easily remove the lower bolt on the end links.
Second guessed myself on how to drop the subframe. Dad simple though.
The bracket holding the sway bar was much beefier than the one shown in the instructions, making it difficult to get to the top bolt. I ended up using a longish pry bar to open the gap wide enough to slip a ratchet up there. Did the same to reinstall.
Had to use the jack to lift the subframe up to allow me to thread the bolts back in on reinstall.
That's it. Beyond those minor troubles, it was pretty straight forward. If you have a decent set of tools, no reason to not attempt it yourself and save a grand in labor that could be used for other fun parts.
The result: body roll has been significantly reduced and it got even more fun to drive. Next up, I'm installing some H&R springs and some new rotors and ceramic pads. New brake lines are coming in a week or so. New wheels also in about a week.
That seems to be the only option for swaybar upgrade on an f60, correct?
I want to do it also but it is pricey and thinking... coilovers or lowering springs. Which is better? Also wanting to do some 25mm spacers to widen the stance, but think that is too wide for coilovers. Do not even know what coilovers to go with but have about 1200 in my budget.
Last edited by kwhanson; Jan 17, 2025 at 06:19 PM.
