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I need to replace my intake vanos it's making a tapping sound that sounds to be an issue with the locking pin. I get a metalic click from the vanos ever couple degree turns. I recently replaced the timing chain and components and the timing was set with the tool and rechecked the timing is good. But when I start the engine it rattles but runs fine only place I can find a sound that might be the issue is in the vanos with the stethoscope. I honestly think I might have damaged it taking it off because I removed the tensioner before removing the cam bolts, idk if the chain was supposed to hold the cog still I figure I'll just replace the vanos since there not to pricey, i just don't want to get a used one and risk problem with it not knowing the milage so I need a good after market alternative that people have used without issues. Also if some one with the knowledge confirmed if I have caused any damage to the vanos phaser by not having tension on the chain before removing the camshaft bolts, I've been reading that it could be becuase the oil had drained out of it and just needs to build back up bit i left it idle for a few minutes with no change in sound so I decided to go back over my work.
Last edited by Triple blaq mini; Sep 29, 2023 at 03:27 PM.
There is a procedure to check your VANOS sprockets. I'll bet your tapping is not coming from the VANOS. I'll put my money on a failed lifter or something in the valve train.
Removing the tensioner before the the center VANOS sprocket bolts is the proper sequence, so you didn't damage them that way. However, you are supposed to use the timing tools to lock the camshafts when you release the center VANOS bolts. Do you have the timing tool set?
If you're going to replace; INA is the OEM supplier for VANOS sprockets. Watch out for cheap aftermarket parts. They just aren't worth the money you'll save.
Yeah I had the timing locking tool in place along with the crank pin. I removed the lifters when I replaced my stem seals but after letting the car idle for a few minutes i thought the oil pressur would build up and quit things down. I didn't drive the car becuase I wasn't sure it was OK, I checked back over my work and the timing is still set correctly. And the lifters are all good, I don't see any thing out of the ordinary and only thing different is the timing components and stem seals, I think maybe I just need to drive it to build more oil pressure idk, I I haven't been home to drive the car but I'll post back.
Perfect! You replaced all the valve stem seals? What tool did you use to remove the VANOS return springs? Did you make sure all the return springs were seated in the slot in the intermediate levers when you reinstalled the springs? From the numbered items in the picture below, what part are you calling the lifter?
You don't need to drive the car to build oil pressure; you just need to increase the engine RPM.
I'm referent to 7 and 3 not sure if thier called lifters it just seems like it i had to remove them to get better access to compress the springs but every thing looks seated properly I even checked for any thing that may have been loose, nothing I'm waiting on a torque wrench as well so I can retorque the camshaft caps, the one i had I'm not sure if it was very accurate since 7.3ft-lbs was on the lower end of the torque range so it may have not been accurately torqued.
3 is the rocker arm (roller rocker), and 7 is the lifter.
2 is the intermediate lever; did you pull those? How did you remove the springs?
Yes, torque wrenches are notoriously inaccurate at lower torque settings. Pretty much all the fasteners on the cylinder head are torqued to 90 (89 if your pedantic) in lbs with the exception of the VANOS servo motor, 75, in lbs, and the lifting eye bolt, 165 in lbs.
Not sure what the deal was but I havent heard the noise since that one day I fired it up after replacing timing chain, all seems good got rid of the blu smoke issue and the engine even sounds a feels a tad pepier.
I’m about to do the valve guide seals and timing chain. I too, just checked my reliable old torque wrench and found it “out of spec”. How long has that been the case? I’m considering making a torque tester as I have lots of torque wrenches from 6 in-oz to 650 ft-lbs (ha, maybe several testers!).
I’m about to do the valve guide seals and timing chain. I too, just checked my reliable old torque wrench and found it “out of spec”. How long has that been the case? I’m considering making a torque tester as I have lots of torque wrenches from 6 in-oz to 650 ft-lbs (ha, maybe several testers!).
Peter
Yeah I used the harber freight torque wrench the first time but decided to buy a dedicated torque wrench for lower torque applications but the hf wrench was actually accurate as the smaller one I bought.
You can calibrate your torque wrenches using a luggage scale. I have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrenches, and I calibrate them once a year. It's actually a pretty simple process.
