R56 2007 s misfire diagnosis
2007 s misfire diagnosis
Hello,
I am new to the forum. And just purchased a 2007 Mini cooler s 6 speed. (It appears to have been maintained pretty well by the dealer) Looks like lots of new parts, valve cover , rear coolant pipe, plugs, clear brake fluid. Ect. The car has 206k miles. I’m a bmw tech, and miles have never bothered me before with a maintained vehicle.
The car has a bad misfire on cylinder 2. I originally just thought it would be the coil pack, or spark plugs. Because when I pull each coil pack while the vehicle is running ; they all make the engine run worse. With the exception of cylinder 2, the idle doesn’t change when the coil pack is removed.
I removed the plugs. They were all in good shape besides two. Where it was wet. Just at the tip. (Not valve cover related, as it appears the entire cover was replaced very recently)
I tried swapping coils, and plugs. And cylinder two really seems to be the problem. I did notice when I looked down into the cylinder that cylinder two appeared to be wet. All the others not so much, or not at all. I have ISTA, but have not gone through any test plans yet. The wiring looked okay going to the coil packs. Most of the hoses appear to have been replaced as well.
Does this sound like it could be an injector problem? Or maybe a intake manifold gasket leak? I ran rough idle test, and it’s showing cylinder 3 with like 200 misfires per minute. And the other cylinders are fine.
I’ll report back when I have more findings. But I’m just trying to make sense of everything here.
Does anyone know if the injectors need to be coded like a turbo charged bmw? Are these known for bad compression , or head gaskets going bad? I don’t want to get to ahead of myself.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
cheers
I am new to the forum. And just purchased a 2007 Mini cooler s 6 speed. (It appears to have been maintained pretty well by the dealer) Looks like lots of new parts, valve cover , rear coolant pipe, plugs, clear brake fluid. Ect. The car has 206k miles. I’m a bmw tech, and miles have never bothered me before with a maintained vehicle.
The car has a bad misfire on cylinder 2. I originally just thought it would be the coil pack, or spark plugs. Because when I pull each coil pack while the vehicle is running ; they all make the engine run worse. With the exception of cylinder 2, the idle doesn’t change when the coil pack is removed.
I removed the plugs. They were all in good shape besides two. Where it was wet. Just at the tip. (Not valve cover related, as it appears the entire cover was replaced very recently)
I tried swapping coils, and plugs. And cylinder two really seems to be the problem. I did notice when I looked down into the cylinder that cylinder two appeared to be wet. All the others not so much, or not at all. I have ISTA, but have not gone through any test plans yet. The wiring looked okay going to the coil packs. Most of the hoses appear to have been replaced as well.
Does this sound like it could be an injector problem? Or maybe a intake manifold gasket leak? I ran rough idle test, and it’s showing cylinder 3 with like 200 misfires per minute. And the other cylinders are fine.
I’ll report back when I have more findings. But I’m just trying to make sense of everything here.
Does anyone know if the injectors need to be coded like a turbo charged bmw? Are these known for bad compression , or head gaskets going bad? I don’t want to get to ahead of myself.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
cheers
Hello,
First things first, I would check to make sure you have spark on cylinder 2. Once that's confirmed, then yes, injector. They don't need to be coded but they need to be set at the right length. Lot of videos on it. When you are checking spark on that cylinder, you should be able to tell if it's getting fuel. With the spark plug out and turning the motor over, you should be able to smell fuel. With all the work done to it, you never mentioned a media blast on the valves, or a timing chain. If you have fuel, I would look at the valves themselves. Head gaskets aren't common on these I don't believe. Hope this gives you somewhere to start!
First things first, I would check to make sure you have spark on cylinder 2. Once that's confirmed, then yes, injector. They don't need to be coded but they need to be set at the right length. Lot of videos on it. When you are checking spark on that cylinder, you should be able to tell if it's getting fuel. With the spark plug out and turning the motor over, you should be able to smell fuel. With all the work done to it, you never mentioned a media blast on the valves, or a timing chain. If you have fuel, I would look at the valves themselves. Head gaskets aren't common on these I don't believe. Hope this gives you somewhere to start!
Hello,
First things first, I would check to make sure you have spark on cylinder 2. Once that's confirmed, then yes, injector. They don't need to be coded but they need to be set at the right length. Lot of videos on it. When you are checking spark on that cylinder, you should be able to tell if it's getting fuel. With the spark plug out and turning the motor over, you should be able to smell fuel. With all the work done to it, you never mentioned a media blast on the valves, or a timing chain. If you have fuel, I would look at the valves themselves. Head gaskets aren't common on these I don't believe. Hope this gives you somewhere to start!
First things first, I would check to make sure you have spark on cylinder 2. Once that's confirmed, then yes, injector. They don't need to be coded but they need to be set at the right length. Lot of videos on it. When you are checking spark on that cylinder, you should be able to tell if it's getting fuel. With the spark plug out and turning the motor over, you should be able to smell fuel. With all the work done to it, you never mentioned a media blast on the valves, or a timing chain. If you have fuel, I would look at the valves themselves. Head gaskets aren't common on these I don't believe. Hope this gives you somewhere to start!

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