My Mini has 180K miles on it but typically runs great. Last weekend I noticed a reduction in power and the vehicle descending into a 4th gear mode with very little acceleration power. I noticed the letter EP instead of D for Drive. I read the manual and shut the car off and restarted and it went away but came back with more frequency now. I had someone with a scanner go thru it as I am 75 miles from the closest Mini dealer and the following codes came up but I have no idea if they relate to my issue: P0316A, p2097, P1498 and a few ABS codes SE38, SE40 and SE5C but I believe they relate to my broken Wear sensor on on of my wheels because I know the brakes are all new and work fine. Can someone help or point me in a decent direction before I have the car towed 75 miles and pay through the nose to a dealer when a local shop may be able to fix some of this. I believe it is an R53 but not sure if it has the CVT due to year and option for that year. Automatic transmission.
Thanks and please help if possible or guidance.
Jeff

 

The cabrio is an R52 but it’s hard to see in the small avatar pic if it’s an S with a supercharger. Only non-supercharged 1st gens, R50 and R52, were available with a CVT. The Aisin regular auto was only available on the R53 and R52S supercharged cars starting with Jan 2005 production.

There are a few active members in the Florida area who can probably recommend a good independent MINI or transmission shop.

 

Thank you, It is NOT a turbo/super charged or an S and is likely the R52 you mentioned. I just don't have a clue it its a vacuum leak or something Non Transmission related based on the codes and also based on the fact that Mini drives fine once its reset for several miles. I was hoping someone had experienced the same or a similar thing. Investing in a used transmission with 180K on the clock may be too dicey at this point.
thank you,

 

Just got my Mini back from the repair shop and they ran diagnostics and other tests and replaced my ambien sensor and told me to replace my rear right wheel bearing as it was growling and that also may be a factor in why the car is shifting into EP Mode. They told me the entire time they had the vehicle it never went into EP Mode of course but once I picked it up and slowed down to the first intersection it popped into EP mode. Then interestingly enough I hit a decent size bump and it shifted back into Drive for while. Unfortunately, this continued my entire afternoon of the transmission going in and out of Drive/EP Mode. I am going to replace the wheel bearing myself this week as they wanted $650 but I can do it for far less and it just bolts on and is not packed. However, would anyone know why the transmission is playing tricks like this and its not when I stop its while I am driving it switches which is so distracting. The repair shop also cleared all my codes and the SES was off when I left but the first time it went into EP mode the SES came back on. I am really trying to have patients but running out quickly as my credibility and reliance is waning with this vehicle. I do have 15 other vehicles to drive (mostly classics though) but purchased this for long distances and gas mileage but now I am only driving it locally and most of the time its in EP mode which forced me not to drive it at all.
thanks and any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jeff

 

Take it back to the repair shop. Seems to me they wanted the easy (wheel bearing) money and only cleared the codes for the transmission. If you hit a bump and it went out it sounds like a loose ground or wire somewhere.

 

Ok I just replaced the very noisy right rear wheel bearing that the repairshop wanted $600 to fix that cost me $37 and a little help from a friend. However, now my Mini is still slipping into EP mode but everytime I hit a bump my radio goes out and it pops back into drive and I can drive for a while until I slow down and it needs to down shift and then it goes right back into EP Mode. The repair shop told me they are finished with it as they were aggravated I wouldn't let them take me to the cleaners to replace the wheel bearing and when they put my ambien sensor on they missed a latch on the front apron so that is NOT right now. I am lost. DO I bring this to Orlando to a Mini Dealer and face the consequences or can someone tell me if it is a loose ground or electrical issue then where should I look. I have been driving the vehicle but only locally and off the main highways as I am afraid of not being able to go fast enough.

Thank you,

Jeff

 

You need to find an OBDII code reader. The codes will hopefully tell you what's causing the limp mode. Without that information, you're just guessing.

 

ABS sensors in the front are most likely faulty.

 

I picked up a brand new CVT on ebay out of California for $1550 just a few months ago, and it looks like they have a few left. If you plan on keeping your Mini, it might be a good investment. A local shop replaced mine for $1200, and put in new drive shafts at the same time.

 

My 2006 R52 was once in EP and EML mode several years ago. The cause was loose/disconnected/broken vacuum line from top engine to CVT (hose runs from top, front then bottom). There was air leak at bottom, I couldn't see it but hear it. Dealer found and fixed/replaced it quickly for about $100. You may want to check if that's your case, too.