What’s this could cost to fix?

I just spent $500 on new starter, before that struts & springs all’round.

Hate to throw $$$$ away if I can avoid it.

Be 10 years since purchase in 2012, love the thing but maintenance seems to be getting expensive.

This isn’t something I’m prepared to DIY.

All replies welcome!

 

Did the oil run dry? Something else? I have heard stories of the water pump friction wheel losing a chunk and sounding like rod knock...

 

No, NEVER run below ‘add’ line, I’m positive.
Had a chance to listen while running on lift w/mechanic beside me. Seems most evident at clutch housing, he suggests possible dual-mass flywheel issue? Still $$$ to repair but ~ 1/3 what a ‘used’ engine’d cost with installation.

That the noise has been there for months (I thought it might be a fuel injector) and grown no worse just doesn’t seem like how a rod bearing failure would behave after 1,000+ miles.

Gonna pull oil filter tomorrow, cut it open & examine it for metal debris / grey 'mud'.

Found this on MiniMania: https://www.minimania.com/MINI_Coope..._Mass_Flywheel - which sounds very similar to what I hear so the dual mass thingy between engine & trans may very well be the culprit. That there was a TSB for 05 vehicles makes me think there may have been faulty later ones too. I had an '03 S I drove for 135,000 miles on the original clutch, then an '07 that I traded @ 97,000 (for the Clubman I drive now) when it was obvious it would be costing me a LOT more to keep it. That '07 had major issues from crankcase breather blowing oil into the cylinders & eventually the engine wiring harness, why I opted for the non-Turbo Clubman I still have.

 

I would drop the oil pan also, just to have a look around

 

Agreed, though I lack the equipment and expertise to accomplish that. An ex-wrench friend suggested the oil filter autopsy, looking for evidence of bearing faiiure, which is something I can do.

The mechanic who's dealing with me on this is well capable of pulling the pan of course, also 'plastigage'-ing rod bearings too, suggested Lucas Oil Stabilizer as a prophylactic, intended to reduce further damage if it in fact is a bad bearing. There's two varieties, regular and synthetic. I'd have to think the latter is the choice where full-synthetic engine oil has always been used on this engine.

I've never thought much of oil additives, potential risks outweighing what slight advantage they may provide, so if other forum-contributors here have experiences they're willing to relate I'd be interested in hearing of them.

 

A thicker oil additive might tell you right away if its a rod bearing or not. If the sound gets quieter or goes away after adding, its rod knock. If the sound doesn't change, its not the bearings. (or they are soooo far gone...)

 

I agree. Why I may add half a quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer later today. Oddly, this morning I’m not hearing the tickyticky at all. Have some errands to run, maybe 15-20 miles driving, it’s already 82F & going higher….

Frustrating not having any fairly easy / inexpensive path to diagnosing this, if indeed it’s really a Problem at all.

 

Update -

Noise is still there, little apparent change effected from half quart of LSS. Noise not at all evident for a second or two upon starting & fast idle. I have to be wearing my hearing aids to hear it at all and with the driver's window rolled down. I can't hear it at all when the windows are up.

Got an e-mail discussing "Money Shift" recently, made me recall such an event last winter. Yet my memory is that the noise has been apparent for nearly a year? Would a simple compression test reveal valve failing to seat? Th ese things are zero-clearance design, right? (At least the non-turbo version I have?)

My knowledge of compression testing is rather dated. Back Then it could be done with head in place but spark plug removed for testing probe.

 

MINI2 Forum contributor Mike67 clued me in to issues arising from auxiliary water pump drive belt & tensioner. I poked around last week after reviewing what all's involved in that collection. Discovered that the friction wheel activator has a tab thingy that, when pulled, puts the tensioner in "Service Position" which - I assume - means the water pump belt's no longer in tension. So I pulled it, then started the engine, listened for the tickytickyticky I'd been plagued with for months.

It was reduced maybe 95% so I think I'm on to something.

Today I was out for some errands, noted the noise is entirely absent.

BUT my hood release cable seems to have come undone (again) so I need to find out how I can release the hood without resorting to the release lever in the passenger compartment.

I know there's a way, my local wrench did it when I had my MINI towed in in July after the starter quit working. Release pulled loose while I was trying to get it started.

(Is it unreasonable to plan on spending maybe US $2,000 on a vehicle that's nearly ten years old & 92,000 miles later if it can be safely driven for another two years or more? That's where I'm at....)

 

With the price of cars today, I wouldn't say spending $2000 is any waste of time if that remedies all your current issues. 92,000 miles on a Mini is practically nothing in my experience. I owned a 2008 Cooper R56 6-spd manual. Sold it with 162,000 miles with original clutch still in great shape and car ran perfect with no repairs other than a water pump pulley for the "Rod Knock" noise...

Recently, I purchased a 2008 Clubman S that had a valve issue for $1000. Found it was broken (not bent as usual). I replaced all the valves, bought tools and parts, spending another $800-$900. Worked through the headaches of re-assembly and trouble shooting codes (to find out two connectors close to each other can be crossed, and now I have a great running, in excellent shape, $7000 car for less than $2000.

I've done head work in the past, but I will say the Mini has some odd things, such as no key ways in the crank for the pulley's, but with many YouTube video's, I figured it all out and started up first try without any major issues. (IE: Ran good and strong, minus the codes setting CEL and causing limp mode). So even if you aren't super handy, if you are able to watch videos and buy the tools from Amazon (you'll save a lot there), take your time, you'll save a ton of money on labor costs and save a lot compared to buying a new car. And once you complete a job that big, the next time, it'll be a breeze as you will now have that experience.

 

I admire your pluck Cybie257.

I managed to do much the same as you but back in 1967. Dad & I found a one year-old Austin Cooper 1275-S late in '66 for what was then not much more in $$ than you paid for your '08. In a year's spirited driving the previous owner had 1) destroyed the 1-2 synchros, cracked the head between intake & exhaust valves on cyl's 2&3, nearly blown a head gasket & wore out the valve guides in 18,000 miles.

I'm older (much) now, this Clubman I've been driving for nigh on 10 years is a Lot More Complicated than that 1275 and a LOT harder to work on.

It's my daily drive too so the premise that I can have it apart, in my garage while waiting for parts or deciding what next has to come off so I can get it sussed out is more than a daunting proposition.

If what we are both referring to as 'rod knock noise' is indeed the auxiliary water pump pulley, I'd be chuffed! Not that I could fix it myself; my Bentley manual tells me the engine has to be dropped to gain access to the pulley mounted to the WP. I have a floor jack, stands and a bottle jack but no courage to risk doing damage I can neither fix myself or afford to have a mechanic perform if something goes wrong.

I did have a local wrench pull the aux. WP belt he said the noise was still there when the engine was started. My motivation for that visit came from my putting the WP drive belt tensioner in 'service position' per the Bentley instructions, which to my ears did cause the noise to be reduced 90%. Putting it back to 'normal' didn't immediately cause the noise to grow loud again, but that all was three weeks back and now the noise is pretty much back to what I've been hearing now for months. Which is why I have trouble believing it's a rod bearing (no metal bits or other debris in the oil filter the last two changes) or the VANOS timing solenoids (may pull them to swap intake for exhaust soon, see what that might show).

What I've read about these Peugeot engines suggests timing chain & guides at 60,000 miles is prophylactic maintenance. Busted chain usually leads to holed pistons & bent valves.

I've been quoted on approx. $7,000 for a 'used' eBay-sourced replacement engine & install. For a $4,000 value vehicle that seems absurd, not knowing what the used engine may have that caused it to be sold w/o a car attached.

Before this Clubman I had an '07 S I traded for the Clubman after 97,000 miles & a repair estimate of $3,000 to 'fix' the deteriorated turbo oiling pipes & engine wiring harness the faulty crankcase ventilation plumbing had been blowing oil into. This MINI I'd had for 4-1/2 years, 4-1/2 months of which had been in the shop to deal with carboned-up valves from the same crankcase venting issue that became evident at about 8,000 miles the first year.

That MINI was ordered before I sold the '03 S I'd had built to order then delivered in late '03. When I sold THAT one it had 135,000 miles on it, the original clutch & everything in the engine compartment humming along beautifully. But the suspension was shot so I took a pass on rebuilding that. Which was, in hindsight, a mistake. That was a superb drive! And it was a little cramped, which is why I drooled over the prospects of the Clubman becoming available in the US. Alas, a little late to keep me from buying that '07 Turbo S coupe first to get to work.

(I did put new springs & struts/shocks on all four corners about this time last year, along with new rotors & pads on the rear again. Have a set for the fronts but those seem to be holding up well after the last set went on not more than 8,000 miles ago. I don't drive nearly as much as I did before leaving full-time employment behind back in 2010.)

So I'm 100 miles from the nearest MINI dealers with no wish to go back ever again for their labor rates & Genuine MINI Parts mark-up for this current oldie, despite my attachment to it. Befuddled by the lack of local willingness to help me diagnose then remediate the current vocal signal of something in need of attention.