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Awesome....
WAIT ??? your in WI too ??? I hope I see this monster rolling around , I officially know I no longer have one of the fastest r53 in WI...lol absolutely awesome
All my Aluminum is clean. I try very hard to keep it from oxidizing.
I'm looking to buy that ic next also to run my kit into...looks sweeeeet !
welcome back btw . I remember you saying my car wouldn't hold up .. well here she is ! Check out how it's come.
the pro alloy is a waste of money and nightmare to install. I only bought it for looks and to fill out the bay. Seriously save your money and use it towards a aquamist system. I know you have a snow but aquamist will blow you away and grow with you.
Going to post on bring a trailer next week. Thanks for all the PM's!!!
I'm going to take your advice , though as sweet as it would be to have my meth running into it and stuff. Ille take your word for it and pass on it also...
Alright, finally a car where i want mine to be. Now for the questions and hopefully some answers.I have a very similar built car, rmw 1.62, RMW head, cam, tune, vipec ecu, 1000cc injectors basically buil the correct way as yours was oh and I forgot also tvs900. Now for the questions, The intake manifold, is it the oem manifold and RMW ported it for you are is it the air to air monifold that they sell on the website. E85 - did you purchase all the lines seperatly and build it or was it a kit bought from RMW. Pulleys - When you install for example the 53mm and 4%+ and then switch back to no oversize on the crank, does that have a different tune that you switch or the same tune. I am probably missing some questions i would like to ask but i could always ask later. I bought mine for 16k but it had a lot of comsetic things changed like new lights, mitsibishi evo 9 seats, rear seat delete, enough jcw oem parts that other mini owners only dream of. I
d16z6 single jingle Disco Potato 4p full send head. 600whp build/restore. Wife's toy ej6 in mint shape. Darton sleeves and all the goodies for 600whp but will be run at 300 whp like the last build for longevity. So much going on with slugs let alone Doritos.
Nice builds! Always fun to see other Honda fans out there! Not many D16 builds anymore! Love that Mugen valve cover too! I miss my EG hatch so badly, but feel that having the R53 as well makes no sense.
Why doesn't anyone make a valve cover like that for Gen 1 Minis?
Nothing is stopping you from making one...
You can design it in Fusion360 (free program).
Send it to a CNC machine shop to be manufactured.
Then send to a powdercoater for paint... or anodize if you have it made out of aluminum (which you absolutely should do)
I'm not sure that I would trust my engine to a valve cover I designed. This got me wondering -- how important is the interior shape of the stock valve cover? For example, would oil flow be impacted if liberties were taken? Seems like modern valve covers are more complex than those from the old days.
I'm not sure that I would trust my engine to a valve cover I designed. This got me wondering -- how important is the interior shape of the stock valve cover? For example, would oil flow be impacted if liberties were taken? Seems like modern valve covers are more complex than those from the old days.
I imagine if you kept the baffle in, it should be ok.
Granted, the valve cover is significantly more complex than an oil pan, it can still be done.
I imagine a valve cover CNCed would be around $1000-$1200...
I had custom brake rotor hats made for roughly $250/ea.
I agree. I'd love a metal cover with a nice JCW inscription in a loud color!
I'd absolutely not want a metal valve cover. That would turn into one giant heated piece of aluminum.. iiiiiiif something on an engine can be made from that high temp/impact plastic composite stuff like Manifold ect are , it's better..less weight , less heat soak , easier to manufacture and reproduce ect... I WISH someone would design an aftermarket intake Manifold that was made from plastic composite stuff.. I seen there's actually thermal gaskets we can get that kinda do the same thing in reducing head to intake heat transfer but I'd think it would cause fitment issues with the ic horns being off center then..
I remember building my 4.6l cougar and id bought a solid aluminum intake Manifold that was an exact copy of the plastic intake on the car but was 3x piece to allow porting ect. That thing turned into ONE BIG HEAT SYNC basically and what airflow the car gained was taken away by the timing kickback due to such drastic increase in intake temps. Id even tried an all aluminum edelbrock vic jr Manifold which was a short runner and even that still heat soaked too bad to be useful ( though i kept it because i tapped it for a 120 nitrous shot )...
you can always take a stock valvecover and clean it up and paint it with aluminized paint and it would look aluminum. Heres a cover id hydropdipped.
^^^ Sheesh, I had one of those brand new in the same factory color. Still have the 1972 window sticker and 2 original sales brochures from that one. OTOH, mine was dead stock, other than dual stacked BRE exhaust. So I'm an old guy now obviously...
This got me wondering -- how important is the interior shape of the stock valve cover? For example, would oil flow be impacted if liberties were taken? Seems like modern valve covers are more complex than those from the old days.
