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So I'm trying to remove the hoses/ducting to get to the timing chain tensioner and have a few questions.
Does the hose come apart at the top red oval in the pic below? If so what do I need to do to (gently) nudge it apart? I've removed the spring clamp. Based on the RealOEM clip below it appears to come apart.
I've loosened the clamp in the location of the lower red oval in the pic below but can't get the hoses apart? Again, any suggestions. Appears there is a shoulder on the upper hose that keeps me from sticking a screwdriver etc. in there to work it loose. I've loosened the clamp.
Reference item 8 on the RealOEM clip. My hose #8 doesn't have the smaller diameter stub-out on it. Does anybody know why?
Absolutely pull the clip back and that top hose should come up. The other part of the hose connect to the throttle body
that can come off also the size of clamp bolt came be taken loose with screw driver or either a 7mm -8mm 1/4 socket.
That hose can get stuck in there from years of use and heat. Try to pull the wire clip right out, then wiggle and pull straight out, I don’t think it’s meant to twist inside the connection
Any idea what the white stuff is in the upper red oval? One person said dried coolant etc. but that's an air hose not a coolant hose and it looks like it's supposed to be there.
Any idea what the white stuff is in the upper red oval? One person said dried coolant etc. but that's an air hose not a coolant hose and it looks like it's supposed to be there.
The quick disconnect hose joints are stuck. The downside to taking them apart is that they tend to catch very fine dirt, which then drops into the intake pipe as they come apart.
My own preferred method is to remove the clamp from the inlet joint to the manifold and pry the hose off. All of these big hoses get seized to their pipes and need to be pried off.
I was able to get the quick disconnect joint apart. Just as stated above you need to pull straight up, That one does not twist. As thefarside said any dirt that was sitting in/on the joint is now in the hose. I'll have to vacuum that out.
I agree that the preferred method would be to remove the lower hose at the manifold. It's on there tight and I can't get any leverage to remove it. Looks like there's no access from below so if you know different let me know. If you have any suggestions then I'll take them. This is so frustrating taking hours to remove some hoses just to replace a part that takes 5 minutes to remove/replace. I debated cutting and replacing that lower hose but the replacement is in excess of $250!!!
I was able to get the quick disconnect joint apart. Just as stated above you need to pull straight up, That one does not twist. As thefarside said any dirt that was sitting in/on the joint is now in the hose. I'll have to vacuum that out.
I agree that the preferred method would be to remove the lower hose at the manifold. It's on there tight and I can't get any leverage to remove it. Looks like there's no access from below so if you know different let me know. If you have any suggestions then I'll take them. This is so frustrating taking hours to remove some hoses just to replace a part that takes 5 minutes to remove/replace. I debated cutting and replacing that lower hose but the replacement is in excess of $250!!!
you can get the forge hose that replaces the noise maker for under a 100, or at least it was when I ordered mine. 85 at ECS
If you look at the RealOEM pic in my original post the little stub-out on the hose below the number 20 isn't on my vehicle. Does that mean mine doesn't have the noise maker?
You don't have a noise maker, but you still have a choke point in that pipe at the joint. Mine had that same configuration. I think the diameter at that joint is 1-3/4"-ish? The aftermarket pipe goes from 2" up to 2.5", all straight and smooth. The aftermarket pipes are MUCH more free flowing than that OEM contraption.,
Wifey is already barking at me to get it on the road again. If I would have known the Forge hose was an option I would have ordered it a few days ago. Will give hose removal another shot this evening.
Success!!! Having a hard time finding the torque spec for the tensioner. Detroit tuned says 48 ft-lb but I’m not using their tensioner. I assume that doesn’t make a difference so I plan to torque to 48 ft-lbs unless someone tells me otherwise. I’ll report back if this is successful in eliminating the cold start rattle.
Last edited by crazy4trains; Aug 6, 2021 at 06:00 AM.
Success!!! Having a hard time finding the torque spec for the tensioner. Detroit tuned says 48 ft-lb but I’m not using their tensioner. I assume that doesn’t make a difference so I plan to torque to 48 ft-lbs unless someone tells me otherwise. I’ll report back if this is successful in eliminating the cold start rattle.
So I finally got all the hoses and air box removed allowing me to access the timing chain tensioner. With everything out of the way it took all of five minutes to swap out the tensioner.
FYI, the old tensioner fell apart into three pieces (spring, plunger and threaded body) as I removed it. With the new tensioner in place all is (relatively) quiet now. I'll definitely keep an eye, and ear, on the timing chain in the future but this has solved my problem for now.
