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R56 FRM......again, advice needed

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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:05 PM
  #1  
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FRM......again, advice needed

Hi everybody
I will try to briefly explain my bad experience with my Mini Cooper,
Bought (1 month a go) a mini cooper S for my daughter 2008 78k miles, everything worked perfectly.....
in the first week everything went bad,
first day: little clicking /ratling noise from fuse box for a few second when ignition (like a bad contact in a relay) no other symptom, noise dispeared after 3 second and engine started normally
2nd 3rd day brake lights stay on even without ignition, key in the hand
Day 4: brake lights and rear lights ON , without ignition
Day 5 : windows issues
Day 6 : no ignition , no start......(battery full power) .......a mess

Changed the battery and ordered a FRM module, used, same number ( R56 High EKS FRM2 6135 3453743-01)..... and everything worked fine again.... for exactly 2 weeks, car used every day

2 weeks after repair (Yesterday) little ratling/clicking noise begun again, 3 second noise from the fuse box when turning ignition ON, engine started normally.....today, same noise and brake lights won't turn OFF .......so in other words exactly the same symptoms like with the first module.

I already ordered another FRM , but need advice , needs the module to be reprogrammed? anybody knows someone in Florida (central) able to reprogramme a BMW FRM module?

Please help , any advice or same experience would be appreciated


 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 04:27 PM
  #2  
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Clicking in JBE and brake lights not going out is a CAS problem

Originally Posted by michelK
Hi everybody
I will try to briefly explain my bad experience with my Mini Cooper,
Bought (1 month a go) a mini cooper S for my daughter 2008 78k miles, everything worked perfectly.....
in the first week everything went bad,
first day: little clicking /ratling noise from fuse box for a few second when ignition (like a bad contact in a relay) no other symptom, noise dispeared after 3 second and engine started normally
2nd 3rd day brake lights stay on even without ignition, key in the hand
Day 4: brake lights and rear lights ON , without ignition
Day 5 : windows issues
Day 6 : no ignition , no start......(battery full power) .......a mess

Changed the battery and ordered a FRM module, used, same number ( R56 High EKS FRM2 6135 3453743-01)..... and everything worked fine again.... for exactly 2 weeks, car used every day

2 weeks after repair (Yesterday) little ratling/clicking noise begun again, 3 second noise from the fuse box when turning ignition ON, engine started normally.....today, same noise and brake lights won't turn OFF .......so in other words exactly the same symptoms like with the first module.

I already ordered another FRM , but need advice , needs the module to be reprogrammed? anybody knows someone in Florida (central) able to reprogramme a BMW FRM module?

Please help , any advice or same experience would be appreciated
Stop ordering FRMs this is a CAS problem. The FRM may be fine but you need to replace the CAS module or send it off for repair
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 07:49 PM
  #3  
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Edit: Never mind, old bumped thread.

Did original FRM show any water damage? Does JBE behind right kick panel show any water damage? Clicking from the JBE is often a bad starter relay (soldered to circuit board), but you're not having cranking problems, right?

Post all fault codes stored in the many Mini Cooper/BMW ECUs/control modules.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 03:22 AM
  #4  
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mkov608
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From: Pensacola, FL
MK, the problem you've described is not caused by the FRM ... I'll bet you lunch it's your CAS module. My 2007 BMW 335i uses the same CAS module (anti theft module to use the generic term), and I had the exact same problem as you've described. I thought the problem was my JBE (that's where the Terminal 30G relay lives), and that's where the clicking noises were coming from. I've fixed and flipped about 6 gen 2 MINIs, and I've changed three CAS modules. I changed the CAS in the BMW (new CAS came with 1 year warranty), and the replacement failed within the warranty period. The vendor replaced it under warranty.

Connect a scan tool to your car; and perform a fault scan (all modules). You will probably see several faults under the CAS module.

The CAS is easy to remove once you get access to it. The problem for the R56 MINI is the CAS is under the dash board right in front of the steering wheel. (a lof of disassembly required.) BMW/MINI ECU repair in Houston, TX has provided me with expert service. The owner is Ali.
 
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