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F54 battery may be different size than listed at auto stores.
My 2016 Clubman (3cyl) battery died at 4 years and 3 weeks. Dealer wanted $450 to replace. (Software registration included). I bought the size listed, H6, at Pep Boys, as their Champion AGM battery comes with a 4 year replacement guarantee. All others were 3 year, and all the batteries appeared to be the exact same Johnson Controls battery made in Mexico. Additionally, if you order the battery online for store pick up, there is a 25% discount, so the $200 battery ended up being $150, so actually cheaper for a better warranty. Long story short, the way they lock the battery in place, it HAS to t e the exact same size. My original was an H7, not an H6, so the new H7 was correct size, about an inch longer than an H6, with higher CCA, CA, and Reserve than the H6 and the original, for the exact same price. Also had a 6/20 build date vs the 11/19 on the H6 I bought first to boot! Just be aware.
My original was an H7, not an H6, so the new H7 was correct size, about an inch longer than an H6, with higher CCA, CA, and Reserve than the H6 and the original, for the exact same price. Also had a 6/20 build date vs the 11/19 on the H6 I bought first to boot! Just be aware.
Thanks! I wondered about that too. H6 and H7 are both listed as the proper replacements. The only help I found, is to check out what is already in your vehicle, but that isn't so easy (the battery is not exposed when you open the hood/bonnet).
Happy to have received this information on the H7 being the correct size. I can confirm that this is the case. I purchased a Champion H7 AGM at Pep Boys for $199.
This is the most complex battery change I have done, so I thought I would share my experience. It took me awhile to figure out what parts needed to be removed.
1. Pull off the neoprene trim strip on top of the battery area and remove the two plastic covers on top of the battery compartment.
2. Remove the air box intake and the air box. The intake just unbolts. On the air box, you remove one hose clamp and flip the air box on top of the engine. This exposes the front end of the battery case.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the side of the battery compartment on and open up the side of the battery compartment.
4. Remove the hold-down for the battery.
5. Remove the terminal clamps and the battery air vent tube (including the 90 degree fitting which you will need to reuse).
Once the battery is reinstalled and all of the panels replaced, the car needs to be programmed for the new battery (which I understand is in order to maximize charging efficiency). I had a Schwaben tool for my BMW that I used. It also covers Minis to some extent. I was able to change the installation miles to the current odometer reading. I was not able to change any other inputs (such as size or type). Your tool may work better. I am not going to worry size or type as H7 is probably close enough to the battery that was originally installed and both batteries were AGM types.
Photos below. Not a difficult job, but rather unique in my experience.
Just replaced mine ~2 weeks ago too. Lasted since X-mas 2016 when I took delivery of my F54, so not too bad, but it showed no issues till it would turn over the engine maybe 2 rotations and shut off...luckily it was the weekend and we were able to use the wifey's '19 Wrangler. I went with the Napa Legend unit for $220 and Bimmerlink to register it. Napa lists both the BCI:94R and BCI:48 batteries for the car, so you certainly need to confirm before just picking one up if you don't have your original pulled out. Mine was the 94R case (larger), which was marked on the OEM battery label. The Napa Legend unit is made by East Penn, which is one of the major battery mfgs out there and has a good reputation. I hope this one lasts another 5+ years, since it should be the next owner's issue then.
jpwolfe, you are certainly correct on the battery change process...not difficult, but not quick either. I was very pleased to be able to figure it out w/o having to resort to an online guide and found that all the parts came apart and reassembled pretty well. I was also surprised on how many leaves found their way down below the hinges in the corners of the engine compartment. When you remove the upper trim panel and battery they are finally exposed. I spent ~20 minutes clearing all that junk out of there, since all they do is hold onto moisture when it rains or snows...not good!
I figure I'll need to replace the battery in my '17 F54 soon enough (touch wood) - so it looks like I need to purchase the BimmerLink (already have and love BimmerCode) in order to register the (H7) battery? That, or deal with the dealer or random Craigslist person? Does BimmerLink do anything more than battery registration that BimmerCode doesn't do? Mostly I see references to the battery.
Want to be prepared for when it happens. Just replaced the battery in my R53, and you just, uh, replace the battery. Imagine that!
Last edited by Eric_Rowland; Sep 9, 2022 at 10:35 PM.
